Methodological guidelines mds 81 25.2001. Recommended standards of estimated profit by type of repair and construction work

Today, almost no repair is complete without plasterboard structures. Walls, arches, partitions, niches, suspended ceilings are used almost everywhere. Moreover, the installation of such structures is quite simple. The main thing is to correctly determine the choice of the type of drywall, fasteners and profiles.

Types of metal profiles

To create a frame, two standard sizes of profiles are mainly used:

• D (smaller) - needed to create planes on which drywall sheets will be attached;
• W (larger) - used in the formation of the general frame of the wall.

Also, in the installation of a profile for drywall, support C and guide U options are used. The guiding option is simple type A U-shaped profile with a smooth surface, into which the support version is installed with the butt end. The support type has a ribbed surface that gives it greater bending stiffness.

As a result, it turns out that the main bearing element of the metal frame is a CD profile with dimensions of 60x27 mm. The UD element with dimensions of 80x27 mm acts as a guide for fastening. The rack-mount option for creating a frame is CW 50x50 mm, 50x100 mm, 50x75 mm, guide for CW - UW profile with dimensions 75x40 mm, 50x40 mm, 100x40 mm. You can also use the UA, which is a hardened counterpart to the CW with a thicker wall.

Stages of fastening a profile for drywall

The floor and adjacent walls to which the new wall will be anchored must be leveled and plastered.

Let's consider the option of forming a wall using UW and CW profiles.

Step 1... We mark the position of the future wall on the floor. In this case, the future structure should be tied to both walls. Given the unevenness of the surfaces and the absence of perfectly right angles, the markings at different ends may differ slightly (by a few centimeters). When planning the first line for placing the wall, it should be borne in mind that in the future, the guide profile will be aligned along it, and not the plasterboard structure. To the resulting mark, add the thickness of the gypsum board sheet, putty and finish. After the first line is drawn, we move on to transferring it to the ceiling and walls. A plumb bob or laser level should be used at this stage.

Step 2... We fasten the profiles to the walls using a sealing tape. Install UW on the floor and ceiling first. In their installation, we use impact screws and dowels every 0.5 meters and along the edges. Place the supporting CW stands along the edges of the rails. You should also place racks in places where window or door openings will be organized. The profiles are fixed on the bottom rails, then set vertically and attached to the top rail. At the same time, do not forget to leave a margin for sheathing with GKL strips of the structure. Profiles should be installed face-to-face inside window or door openings. In the installation of racks to the rails, it is best to use self-tapping screws.

Step 3... Reinforcement of the perimeters of window and door openings is made using wooden beams, which are placed inside the profile and fastened with self-tapping screws. If AU is used, the bars can be omitted.

Step 4... Along the entire length of the frame, we place the support CW vertically. From the adjacent wall, the first profile is placed at a distance of 55 cm, the subsequent ones - strictly at a distance of 60 cm from each other.

Step 5... Door and window openings are marked with UW guides. To do this, cut a piece 30 cm longer than the width of the opening. Marks are placed on the bend of the side folds on the front side at a distance of 15 cm from the edge.

As a result, the distance between the marks should correspond to the width of the opening.

The sides are cut at an angle of 45 ° from the edge towards the base of the profile. We bend the edges and get a U-shaped structure. We put the resulting structure on the racks on the sides with bent edges and raise it to the required height. Next, we fasten it with self-tapping screws. The oblique ears formed on the horizontal parts of the workpiece are also fixed with fasteners. We form window openings in the same way. This completes the installation of the profile for drywall.

Quite often, in the process of arranging a new home, people have to erect interior partitions, redevelop an apartment or level walls. The ideal material for this is drywall. With its help, you can perform almost any internal work without resorting to the participation of third-party masters. However, not all people work smoothly, sometimes certain difficulties arise in those cases when they have to carry out installation of a profile for drywall, this is the most difficult stage. Therefore, we will analyze this issue in detail in our lesson.

Tools for work on profile installation

Base List necessary tools typically includes a tape measure, scissors for cutting metal, square, rope, puncher, level, screwdriver, and utility knife. Depending on a particular situation, this list can expand, and vice versa.

Use sealing tape when installing the frame. It is laid between the profiles and the surface to which they will be attached.

Installation of the structure on the walls

For clarity, consider the installation of profiles on one wall. You need to start with markings that will help determine the unevenness of the wall. It can be piled up inside the room, or vice versa. Suppose it is piled inward. Now you need to choose a level for making a mark, most often it is the ceiling. The mark of the first horizontal profile is made on it. If wall insulation is planned, then it is better to retreat about five centimeters from the walls. If insulation is not planned, then the indents should be minimal. The upper profile of the anchor is attached along the marked line. Then the lower horizontal profile is measured on it. This can be done using a two-meter building level or a plumb line. After marking, the profile is fixed with dowels with screws. This creates two sewn-on horizontal profiles, one on the ceiling and the other on the floor. Now you can start with the side profiles. They are pre-measured, and, having inserted into the guides, are fixed with dowels to the wall. As a result, you should get an even square of profiles.

Further, the lower profile guides are divided into sixty-centimeter segments (a standard step for attaching drywall sheets). After that, vertical profiles are inserted into them directly opposite the designated places and fixed from below. Then, using a level, the accuracy of the fastening is checked, and they are screwed onto the upper guide profile. This completes the installation of the profile for drywall, you can proceed to patching the sheets.

There are only two sizes of plasterboard profiles. The first is used to form a plane, and the second is used to erect a frame. Share them English letters D and W.

Installation of the structure on the ceiling

The installation of a profile for drywall on the ceiling begins with the installation of guides on the wall. The step width from the ceiling directly depends on the insulation material. If insulation is not required, the indentation is carried out in accordance with the markup. Strengthening the guiding horizontal profiles is carried out along the entire perimeter of the room to form a closed square. After that, the suspensions are fastened with anchors (special ceiling wedges) over the entire area of ​​the ceiling in full accordance with the markings. They need to be placed as often as possible, because the density of the structure depends on this.

The final stage of work involves the installation of transverse profiles, which are inserted into the profile guides and fastened with hangers. The step width is sixty centimeters, that is, every sixty centimeters a transverse profile must be attached. In the process of fixing, it is necessary to check the evenness of the profiles with the help of a level and only after that proceed to their residual fastening.

In fact, if the above recommendations and care are followed, difficulties during installation of a profile under drywall should not arise even for outright beginners. In order to visualize the entire technological process, watch the installation of a profile under the drywall video. We hope this tutorial was useful to you. Successful repairs to you!

Installation of a profile for drywall video

Standard swing doors, which are almost always installed in apartments and private houses, can cause a lot of problems, especially if it comes about small apartments. For their normal operation, a certain amount of free space is required, which can be used with greater benefit.

To increase the free space in the apartment, sliding doors can be installed instead of the standard design. Next, it will be considered how to install sliding doors yourself.

The sliding doors moving along the wall are equipped with a modern sliding mechanism that works silently, softly and reliably.

Sliding door design

Structurally, sliding doors consist of a leaf and a frame, which, depending on the type of mechanism used, can be placed above or below.

The canvas moves on rollers along a guide; it can move along the wall or hide in a special niche.

There are 2 main types of sliding structures:

1. The rollers are installed on the top of the door leaf. In this case, the frame consists only of the top rail. In this case, you have the opportunity to use any flooring and, if necessary, replace it without dismantling the sliding doors.
2. The rollers are mounted on the bottom of the doors.

   In this case, the guide bar is placed on the floor, which also acts as a threshold.

An example of a sliding interior design is shown in Fig. 1.

Preparatory work

Picture 1.

An example of a mechanism for a sliding interior design.

As an example, the process of installing a single-leaf sliding door, which is the simplest and most common design, will be considered. To do the work with your own hands, you will need the following tools and materials:

• screwdriver;
• electric drill;
• building level;
• roulette;
• hacksaw;
• hammer;
• elements of the sliding mechanism;
• wooden beam;
• pencil.

The first step is to make a markup for installing the guides.

There are two ways to do this:

1. Using a tape measure, measure the height of the curtain from the floor, adding 1.5-2 cm to the resulting value for the gap between the door and the floor, as well as the height of the assembled roller device and guide. Then marks are placed on the wall, along which a horizontal line is drawn.
2. The door leaf is placed against the opening, a lining of the required thickness is placed under it, after which a horizontal line is drawn along the upper cut of the door.

   From this line, the height of the guide and carriage is debugged upwards.

To prevent the sliding doors from moving apart independently after installation, it is necessary to check the horizontalness of the drawn line with the help of a building level.

Installation of a sliding structure

Figure 2.

Installation of sliding door track.

The next step installation works is the installation guide. To do this, along the marked line, a wooden beam 50x50 mm is attached to the wall using self-tapping screws, the length of which should be 2 times greater than the width of the doorway (Fig. 2). The beam must be pressed as tightly as possible against the wall, for which you need to use the required number of self-tapping screws. After the bar is fixed, check its horizontal position again.

To determine the location of the mounting holes, divide the thickness of the door leaf by 2, and add the required distance of the doors to the wall (about 4 mm) to the obtained value.

Before finally fixing the strip, make sure that there is enough free space between the door and the wall for it to move freely.

No matter how curved the wall is, the guide must be fixed in a straight line without the slightest bends.

After installing the guide rail, assemble the roller mechanism, connect the fasteners to it, with which it will be fixed on the doors, and insert the resulting structure into the guide.

Attach brackets to the upper cut of the door, stepping back from each edge of the door leaf by about 5 mm. The number of staples must match the number of rollers.

After that, you can proceed to installing the carriages to the canvas. The fastening is carried out in such a way that the recesses on the brackets, into which the nuts will be tightened, are directed towards the wall. Next, place the door against the rail, align the fastener of the right carriage with the hole on the right bracket.

Installation of a drywall profile - easy assembly of complex structures

Secure the clips to the roller bolts. To securely fix the door leaf to the floor, a lower rail is attached to one of the walls. After that, it is inserted into the groove, which is located in the lower end of the door.

At the last stage of the installation work, it is necessary to fasten all the door fittings, masking decorative strips and finish the door slopes to your taste.

Types of dry wall profiles: dimensions and purpose

Gypsum boards are effectively used in the final process, but their attachment is impossible without a special profile of the metal frame. Alternatively, you can use special glue, but the reliability of the design is ensured by the profiles.

Different types of these fasteners are used to make different skeletal shapes.

Types of profiles for gypsum plasterboards

The classification of metal profiles for the installation of dry walls can be based on their functional purpose, design and use.

Profiles differ by location:

In addition, there are varieties in the classification of GCR profiles:

• Aircraft cover
• Partition profile

Types of drywall profiles depending on the shape:

• apartment
• angular
• As a channel

Steel is used as a material for the production of metal profiles for drywall and is usually galvanized.

Galvanized zinc or thick sheet metal can be used for various functional purposes of the profile.

More detailed description profiles gives an idea of ​​the purpose of these structural elements of drywall systems.

Profiles for creating a base frame

In this app:

• Lead profiles are marked with UD.

  Such profiles are used to form the structure for the future structure of the gypsum board. Since the entire system, including the bulkheads and the dry wall, is attached to this profile, it is made from a thicker grade of steel. This type of profile determines the parameters of the future perimeter of the entire structure.

• Carrier profiles with CD mark.

  Installing drywall profiles: step by step instructions

  This type of profile is directly linked to the UD frame profiles and performs the carry function according to its name. Since they are also attached to drywall panels, they must be made of galvanized steel sheet

• Developed profiles.

  For technological features, this type of profile is equal to the two previous types, but it reinforced the perforation with the presence of several holes and pieces.

  This allows it to bend in the desired direction and form a skeleton of complex configurations.

Section profiles

Same classification including

• The profiles were focused on UW design, designed to create the structure of the skin. With its use, configuration and partitions
• The CW tag is the element that reinforces the entire structure.

  Drywall sheets can be installed on both sides

Profile profiles of different categories

Since each type of profile has its own functional purpose, the sizes and shapes of the profiles are also different.

• The leading UD profiles are, for example, dimensions 0.25-0.28 × 300 - 400 cm.

  Profile thickness is 0.5-0.7 mm

• Support profiles CD have dimensions 0.25-0.28 × 300 cm, in both cases also 0.28 × 400 cm, shelf height 0.5-0.6 mm

The weight of bearings and profiles of guide housings is 1.2-1.8 kg for a length of 3 m and 1.6-2.4 kg for a length of 4 m, depending on the thickness of the steel.

Section profiles are usually wider.

Their sizes:

• The profiles of the UW brand are 50.75.100 mm wide. The length of these profiles is 3000 mm or 4000 mm. The weight of each profile reaches 2.19-3.88 kg, depending on the other dimensions
• CW rack profiles, depending on the purpose, have the following dimensions:
  • 48.8x3000x50
  • 73.8x3000x50
  • 98,8h3000h50

This type of profile can be designed with a length of 4000 mm and the same width and height parameters.

In all cases, the thickness of the metals is at least 0.5-6 mm.

Fasteners for plasterboard profiles

To fully install the profiles, you must also use repair equipment. It is used to connect the individual structural elements of the frame, as well as to repair drywall leaves.

Fastener types for the GCL fall into the following categories:

To connect a wall or ceiling to a metal frame made of a metal profile, the "P" bracket is used.

It softens wrinkles easily and contains perforations throughout the area.

• Quick Attach Suspension - Quick Suspension. It has a special speech hole that helps to connect those parts that cannot be attached to the carrier
• The cross bracket is used as a jumper on the support profiles and allows connection at right angles
• To increase the length of the bearing profile, a connector is inserted into which the ends of the profiles are inserted

And the fasteners are more reliable in the structure of the drywall system, screws, bolts and dowels are used for fastening.

They are sized according to the element or surface to be fixed.

output

As a professional craftsman, it is usually enough to briefly describe the parameters of all structural elements of the drywall structure. But if you have to deal with this device for the first time, it is better to get visual information. For this purpose, it is advisable to watch a video that will allow you to delve deeper into the process of selecting fasteners for a dry and visual display of the characteristics of each of them.

Finally, it should be noted that there is no need to ignore certain types of profiles for gypsum boards or fasteners that replace them with those that are available.

Sometimes this practice makes the drywall system unreliable.

See Types of drywall profiles

Installation of various profiles for plasterboard panels: installation of the profile strip on the floor, installation of the CW profile, installation of the UW profile rail on the ceiling.

Installation methods for gypsum plasterboard profiles.

Why do you need a proxy server?

Plasterboard sheets (gypsum plasterboard), due to the reasonable price and ease of use, have firmly won the lead among finishing materials.

However, the installation of gypsum board is not always so a simple matter... There are many features of their installation on different structures, which must be taken into account when performing work.

In this article, we will consider the issues of using a metal profile for mounting the supporting structure, we will learn how to fix a profile for drywall on the walls and on the ceiling.

General information about profiles

On the market building materials the most popular are the following types:

• Rack;
• Rack guide;
• Ceiling;
• Ceiling guide.

The main difference between the guide profiles is the absence of a special side, which is an additional stiffening rib.

There are two standard lengths of galvanized profiles: 3 meters and 4 meters.

Reliable connections - system reliability

It is very important to choose the correct and reliable self-tapping screws.

The first thing that should be mentioned when talking about profile connections is the self-tapping screws used for this purpose. Usually self-drilling screws are used, 9.5 mm long, popularly called "bugs" or "flea beetles".

The first type of connection is splicing to obtain a profile of the desired length.

It is done in three ways:

• Overlap;
• Butt using an additional piece of profile;
• Butt, using a guide.

All these connections are fixed with self-tapping screws on the sides of the profiles to obtain maximum strength.

In some types of structures, it becomes necessary to connect profiles perpendicular to each other.

For this purpose, a special connecting bracket of the "crab" type is used, in professional language called "single-level connector".

It allows you to connect profiles at right angles, in one plane. Often used when installing single-level ceiling structures.

Special devices for fixing drywall

Often, when designing a design, several levels of the ceiling are provided.

Before approving such a project, you need to clearly understand how to fix a profile for drywall in such structures.

For multilevel connections of profiles at the required angle, special connectors are used, such as:

• Turning;
• Unilateral;
• Two-level.

It will not be superfluous to use another special connector for the installation of complex structures - an angular one.

But you can do without it by making cutouts in the sides of the profile with scissors for metal, and bending it at the desired angle.

Fastening galvanized profiles to walls

The question of how to attach a drywall profile to the walls is usually not sharp. Especially if the room is new and the walls are flat.

For fastening, standard perforated hangers are used.

• The hangers are attached to the walls with dowels.
• Bend in the shape of the letter P.
• A galvanized profile is inserted inside the suspension.
• Through special holes in the suspension, with the help of "flea beetles", the profile is attached.
• Usually they are attached along the edges of the wall, set vertically using a level or plumb line, three threads are pulled between them: above, below and in the middle. Then the remaining profiles are set along these threads.

Fastening galvanized profiles to the ceiling

In ceiling structures, to obtain a reliable structure, a profile attached to the walls along the entire perimeter of the ceiling is used as a base.

Ceiling fixing with perforated hangers

Profiles are inserted into it, evenly distributed over the entire area of ​​the ceiling, and are fastened with the same self-tapping screws - "flea beetles".

If the distance is small, the profile is attached to the ceiling using the same perforated hangers.

If the distance is significant, and the length of the hangers for fixing the profile is not enough, a system of so-called sliding hangers comes to the rescue.

Such systems are used when installing suspended ceilings, they consist of:

• Knitting needles in the amount of 2 pcs;
• Bracket;
• Spring holder.

One of these knitting needles is rigidly attached to the ceiling, and the second one adjusts the mounting height. Sometimes installers use trims from a regular profile, bending them at an angle of 900.

The resulting structure has more high degree rigidity, which gives the homemade mount an advantage over the factory version.

The best way to learn how to fix a profile under drywall is to watch the work of the master.

How to make a plasterboard ceiling with your own hands and video instructions

As the saying goes, "It's better to see once ...".

But if this is not possible, do not despair. Nothing is impossible. The main thing is to stock up on patience, materials and tools.

Watch a video on installing profiles and installing drywall:

With patience, everything is clear, we also figured out the material, in the end it remains to decide on the minimum necessary set of tools:

• Perforator or impact drill - for drilling holes in walls and ceilings for dowels;
• Electric or cordless screwdriver - for tightening self-tapping screws;
• Metal scissors - for cutting;
• Level (spirit level) - for setting profiles in a strictly vertical position;
• Construction thread or twine - stretched between the extreme profiles in several places to install the rest of the profiles in the same plane;
• Pliers - for bending the cut parts of the profile;
• Gloves, glasses - protective equipment.

And one more, last, advice - when installing structures, it is strongly recommended to foresee the laying of all communications in advance, so that you do not have to redo everything again.

Do-it-yourself installation of a profile for drywall - installation of a frame from profiles for drywall

Today, with the help of gypsum plasterboard structures, you can quickly and efficiently level the surface of walls and ceilings, create smooth single-level or unusual multi-level suspended ceilings, non-standard curved or maximally flat partitions.

The basis of any such structure is a reliable frame, which must be carried out in strict accordance with technology, in accordance with applicable standards and rules. Do-it-yourself installation of a profile for drywall can be performed by any craftsman and amateur who knows how to handle a screwdriver and simple construction tools.

Preparatory work

Plasterboard profiles are made of durable galvanized steel.

It is easy to work with them in any even the most difficult conditions, with significant fluctuations in temperature and humidity. The main thing is to decide at the preparatory stage on the type of structure, its design and drawings of all connecting elements, on the basis of which you should purchase high-quality materials and prepare all the necessary tools.

Depending on the type of work planned, modern manufacturers offer several types of different profiles:

• Rack.

  They have a special central recess that reinforces the profile and helps to find the exact place for fixing the screws during the installation of the structure.

• Guides. They have strong corrugated walls of increased rigidity. Ordinary consumers call such profiles "P-sheaves" for their design features.

  They are used in conjunction with rack profiles, so their parameters for selection and cutting must match.

• Ceiling. For the arrangement of frame ceiling structures, special ceiling profiles are produced, which simultaneously have three grooves, with the help of which the most accurate centering of suspensions and screws is performed.

In addition to profiles, you should purchase special components, without which a high-quality installation of a profile for drywall with your own hands is impossible.

Depending on the volume of work performed, you should buy suspensions and rods, brackets, anchors, dowels and self-tapping screws.

From tools and equipment, you should prepare:

• Special scissors for cutting metal elements.
• A screwdriver or hammer drill (depending on the structure of the walls to which the profile will be attached).
• Building level.
• Laser level or plumb line.

Having prepared the required amount of the main and consumable material in accordance with the selected design and volume of work, they begin to carry out installation work.

The procedure for installing a profile for drywall

Consumers have already appreciated the wall leveling frames, which can be used to quickly equip even and structural surfaces with niches and columns.

On the basis of pre-developed drawings, the surface is marked. Having departed from the corner, draw a straight line with a building ruler or level on the adjacent wall. This is the border of the entire structure, taking into account the thickness of the guide profile and sheets of gypsum board. As a rule, this parameter is 40-50 mm. From the baseline, the markings are transferred to the ceiling using a laser level or a plumb line.

After applying the markings, the phased assembly of the frame begins.

First, guide profiles are installed, which are initially fixed with screws and dowels to the floor surface, and then to the ceiling.

Having mounted the guide elements, direct suspensions are attached, with the help of which the rack profiles will be installed.

Installation of a profile for drywall

The hangers are fixed to the wall with dowels at a distance of no more than 800-1000 mm. Then all vertical guides are installed, which are inserted into the cavities of the lower and upper profile.

When carrying out work, it is imperative to control the correct location of the structure in level with the help of a vertical plumb bob.

After making sure that the frame structure is installed evenly, you should complete the fastening of all elements completely.

The frame device can be additionally reinforced with jumpers, which should be cut from rack-mount profiles.

Before fixing the plasterboard sheets, insulation, sound insulation, steam and waterproofing can be laid in the finished frame structure. The type of insulating materials and their thickness depend entirely on the type of wall and the tasks to be performed.

To increase the sound insulation of the frame system, many craftsmen use high-strength polyethylene film, which is overlapped between the profiles.

Roll materials or soft mats are usually used as effective thermal insulation.

They are easy to cut and fit, fixed with a special stapler or tape.

If you are interested in how to fix drywall to the ceiling, then you can find out here.

Video

This video shows the process of installing profiles for drywall.

Gypsum plasterboard (gypsum plasterboard), as a rule, is attached to the crate, respectively, the installation of a profile for drywall must be reliable. Often, novice builders buy thin metal PP guides, and some areas on the ceiling are squeezed under the weight of the material. To do the job correctly, you need to study the finishing technology. The panels for wall and ceiling cladding themselves are easy to use, and little time is spent on making the frame.

Plasterboard sheets are attached to the frame from special profiles

Wooden and metal products

Partitions, walls and ceilings cannot be finished with drywall sheets alone. Therefore, profiles are the main part of the entire structure. There are 2 types of products:

• metal;
• wooden.

In the first case, the strips for mounting on the gypsum board have many disadvantages. The material is not in wide demand, since manufacturers do not produce it, but it is still used for the installation of battens. What are the cons to expect when using wood products:

• low operational life;
• decay of wooden planks when interacting with water;
• such a crate does not shine with strength, so it may deform after a while;
• high degree of ignition;
• laborious installation of the frame.

This video shows how to build a frame from profiles:

Steel structures surpass wooden models in undeniable advantages. They are several times more expensive, but this is the only drawback. Pros that can be highlighted:

• rigid and durable lathing does not deform even after many years of operation;
• ease of assembly of the structure;
• long service life due to the fact that the material is made of zinc and has a sufficient thickness of the sides so as not to bend under the weight of the sheets;
• there is different types profiles for both the ceiling and walls.

Of course, the owner will overpay money for the purchase of such a high-quality building material, but he will forever forget about the periodic restoration of the suspended product.

Types of guides

There are profiles for the ceiling and walls, but they are structurally similar to each other. Therefore, there are only 2 types: starting and main models. The dimensions of the guides are made according to the standard - 300 cm long.If the room is large, then there is a special fastener that connects 2 elements from the ends and achieves a value of 600 cm.

The frame for fastening drywall is made of starting and main guide profiles

Profiles marked PP and PS must be installed for areas of a room with a high load. These types of steel strips at the ends are designated by the letters C or P. PN - guide profile (starting). It is used for mounting to walls in a horizontal or vertical position. Then the main metal products are mounted in it, which form the frame. As far as they are installed evenly, the coating will be so even. Variations of drywall steel profiles:

1. NP - this type is used for walls, because it plays the role of a vertical support.
2. NP - performs the functions of the ceiling value on which the gypsum board is mounted.
3. PP - starting guides are installed under the ceiling around the entire perimeter of the room. The main profiles are attached to them and a suspended ceiling is created.

There is certain types material that is used infrequently. If the owner of a country house decided to make complex geometric shapes or protect weak areas of the finish from mechanical damage, then you cannot do without them:

1. Corners. After fixing the drywall boards, these parts are mounted. They are installed along the entire length of the corner, for example, on partitions. The elements are fixed with staples and a stapler. On the ceiling, they are rarely used, exceptions are two- or three-tiered structures. In other cases, the corners are installed on the walls.
2. Half arcs. These are radius profiles that are installed in arched openings or other asymmetric areas of the house. They, like the main types, are fixed on screws.

You can do without buying semicircular strips and make them yourself. It is enough to arm yourself with scissors for metal, put dashes with an equal pitch on the sides of the main flat guide NP and make cuts, not reaching the bottom of the product by 2 mm. Then the structure is bent and mounted to the lintels. The work will not take much time and you will not have to overpay for radius models.

Construction fixing rules

The lathing is fixed on metal hangers. Due to them, they expose the gap between the wall or ceiling and the slats. Therefore, the master does not need to level the surface of the ceiling, which significantly speeds up the workflow. Several suspensions are mounted on 1 m². The part looks like a plate, the edges of which are equipped with multiple holes for self-tapping screws.

The starter guides must be installed on plastic dowels and screws. To securely fasten the bar, holes are made in it every 50 cm with a puncher, both in the part itself and in the wall. Hammer the plastic fasteners with a hammer and screw in the screw. Other profiles are sold with pre-made holes, they are more suitable for novice builders. Here are some professional tips to make installing drywall rails much easier:

You cannot use curved guides to create a frame, as this will affect the evenness of the ceiling or wall.

Room layout

The frame requires the correct layout of the walls. If this is not done, then the design will be crooked. List of tools for work:

• a chalk-treated cord, such as is sold in hardware stores;
• roulette
• pencil;
• hydro level;
• level.

If the craftsman is not sure about the evenness of the ceiling, then he uses the hydro level to find the zero point. In the corner of the room from the floor, he marks 100 cm. Applies one side of the tool to it, and sets the other on the opposite corner, when the water levels out, draws a short line with a pencil at its level. The procedure is carried out with all sides of the room.

From the ceiling down the wall, measure no more than 10 cm. They put a mark from which they measure the height to the bottom line. The resulting size is transferred to all corners of the room. This is the perfect way to achieve a consistent plane. It is advisable to involve an assistant in the work.

At the level of two marks, the cord is pulled tightly, the material is grasped by the hand closer to the middle, pulled away from the surface and released. As a result, an even print will remain, which will serve as a beacon for setting start profiles. Similar manipulations are done around the entire perimeter of the room.

To obtain a high-quality drywall frame, you should clearly follow the instructions

You can use other methods: step back 10 cm from the ceiling and mark this place with a pencil, attach a long level at the line level and adjust it, then draw a line on top of it, on the edge of which the tool is again placed and similar work is carried out. And so they do until they have marked out the entire perimeter of the room.

Technique for mounting the frame on the ceiling

The design of the ceiling lathing from the wall is almost the same. Specialists in 1 day are able to build a product in a room with an area of ​​20 m². How they do it:

The installation of profiles for drywall is controlled by the building level. Even the slightest differences are categorically unacceptable, especially when it comes to the stage where the element is attached to the ceiling. Therefore, installation is best done together.

Create wall lathing

Before starting work, specialists level the surface of the room, since the starting ones are installed on them, and as you know, they are considered the basis for the entire structure. Installation of profiles for drywall on walls:

1. The wall surface is lined up - this applies to the floor and ceiling. Marks are made, to which the lined cord is applied, pulled back and released. On impact, a straight line will remain.
2. Starting guides are installed along the floor and on the ceiling, which are attached to dowels and screws. In the corners of two opposite walls, profiles are mounted vertically. Because standard height modern premises are not more than 300 cm, then the bar does not have to be increased by connecting two such elements with fasteners.
3. The main profiles are placed vertically with a pitch of 50 cm, and they are fastened with "bedbugs" screws.
4. Jumpers are made with trimming sides 4 cm long on both sides. They are placed in 50 cm increments. The work is constantly monitored by level. The joints are fastened with "crabs".

To give the structure rigidity, the craftsmen advise using not only suspensions, but also pieces of the profile. For example, if the distance between the wall and the crate is 10 cm, then PP guides are prepared according to the same dimensions, the sides of which are cut at one edge, all parts are bent back. The material is installed in the frame bar, the other end is placed against the wall, in which holes are made and the product is fixed with dowels and self-tapping screws.

The work is over. It remains to check the quality of installation of a metal profile for drywall. From the top corner of the wall, pull the thread to the bottom. Attach a second cord, but in the opposite direction, so that a large letter "X" is obtained. If no significant gaps are observed, and the structure does not stagger, then the process of assembling the crate with your own hands was successful.

Today, such material as drywall is one of the best finishing materials. It combines ease of installation, high efficiency of use and low price... However, in order to work globally with drywall, this means the effectiveness of its use in a particular area of ​​construction and finishing works, you need to know the basics of its installation. And this is exactly what we will talk about in our today's article.

Of course, most people starting repairs prefer to use this finishing material without a profile, a kind of frameless installation, since an ordinary plasterboard sheet can be easily attached to a surface, for example, to a wall or ceiling, using simple self-tapping screws, and the marks from holes can be easily repaired with ordinary putty. However, in this case, it is imperative that there is a surface on which the plasterboard will be attached, and if you need, for example, to make a partition in the room, then it is simply impossible to do without using a profile, and this method of installing drywall is called frame.

The frame installation method implies the mandatory presence of four types of profiles, to which, in fact, the plasterboard sheet will be attached. The PS profile is a rack profile, which is installed in a vertical position, and serves as a kind of support for other types of profiles, and, in addition, it also serves as a guide surface when attaching gypsum plasterboard sheets. This profile in its standard version has a length of three hundred centimeters, and a square section with a side of five centimeters. In addition, there are other sizes of the rack-mount profile, which differ not only in their length, but also in the size of the section.

The second type of profile, which is necessary to create a full-fledged frame for gypsum plasterboard structures, are UV and UD profiles, which are horizontal guiding profiles designed so that gypsum plasterboards can be fixed on them. These profiles, as a rule, have the same cross-section, with dimensions of twenty-seven millimeters by twenty-eight millimeters, but the length, that is, linear measurements of a given profile, may be different, but, as a rule, in the standard version, the length of such profiles is three hundred centimeters.

And, finally, the last type of profile that is necessary when creating a frame installation of drywall is the PP profile - a horizontally positioned ceiling profile, which is often used when creating structures for suspended ceilings. The use of this profile is optional, since you have the right to independently decide whether you are going to decorate the ceiling with plasterboard or not, but it is worth noting that if you decide to do this, then you will get the ideal shape of your room, since all the corners are future surfaces are strictly measured, and, therefore, the problem of an uneven ceiling will be solved by itself. In addition to the fact that you need a profile, you will definitely also need connecting parts, without which a normal and high-quality installation of a frame structure for plasterboard finishing is simply not possible. You will need:

• U-shaped hanger for PP profile (ceiling profile);
• cross-shaped connector for connecting the PP profile at one constant level;
• U-shaped connector required to connect the PP profile at different levels (if you want to create a multi-tiered ceiling);
• T-bracket used in practice for creating false ceiling structures

It is perhaps worth noting that you should not regret purchasing these connecting parts, since they are all necessary in order to withstand drywall profile weight, and if this is neglected, then it is likely that these joints will experience high stresses and loads, as a result of which destruction of the entire structure may occur.

The installation of a drywall profile begins with nothing, namely with a marking, since if this is not done in the proper way, then it is likely that the surface will be uneven, meaning inclined vertically or horizontally. In order to make the correct markup for our future frame, you need to use a tool such as a level. Having such a tool, it is necessary to first walk it vertically, and then horizontally, as a result of which it will be quite easy to identify whether the wall is "overwhelmed" by builders or not.

If the builders turned out to be professionals, and the wall is presented perfectly flat, then you can begin to install the profile, but if the builders did not have enough professionalism, and the wall is tilted or has significant protrusions, then you should proceed as follows: it is necessary to determine the point of the wall that protrudes from the wall, visually project (imagine that the wall is not in a vertical position, but in a horizontal position) on the floor, and add twenty-eight millimeters to the dimensions of this profile. The question may arise as to why exactly twenty-eight, because the size of the UD and SW profile has a thickness of twenty-seven millimeters, but the point is that the profile design does not take into account the thickness of the metal, which can be forty-five hundredths of a millimeter and six tenths millimeter, and it is likely that when measuring this protrusion, you will be mistaken even by a millimeter.

After you have done this, at a distance measured from the wall, you should attach the UD and UV profiles, respectively, to the floor and ceiling surfaces, and then, to this profile, attach vertical guides. It is worth noting that before you fix the rack profile, you must again make a markup so that when installing the frame for finishing with a drywall sheet, distortions do not arise, and only then install the suspensions and fix the rack profile on them, which should be repeated on the wall through every seventy centimeters, which will be the answer to the question that has arisen how to expose a profile under drywall.

Well, the time has come now to deal with the PP ceiling profile, since the question of covering the ceiling with drywall sheets is a very topical issue today. The first stage of creating the ceiling frame is almost identical to how we marked the walls, after which, every one and a half meters, control suspensions for the ceiling profile are set. It is worth noting that if the dimensions of your room do not exceed a length of five meters, then it will be quite enough to install suspensions on opposite sides of your ceiling, and place one in the center. If the room is large, then it is necessary to install intermediate suspensions in order to give the frame more reliability, strength and stability.

After you have attached the hangers at the points you marked, you can start attaching the ceiling profile, installing it about every fifty centimeters, that is, two more additional hangers are installed between the two control hangers. After the brackets are installed, and the location of the surface is properly checked, you can proceed to the installation of the PP profile. It should be noted that connection of profiles for plasterboard is no different from a similar process carried out on the wall, and all the same self-tapping screws are used as connecting units. It should be noted that it is imperative to check the set dimensions for the profile, since even with an error of only half a centimeter, this will negatively appear on the surface of your ceiling, and it is quite easy to make such a mistake, and if you have the opportunity to use a laser level (borrow from a neighbor , take from friends or acquaintances), then be sure to do it, unless of course you want to get a high-quality surface.

And, finally, I would like to talk about how the installation of the frame for multi-level plasterboard ceilings is carried out. In fact, there is nothing special about this, since the same profile is used as when installing a conventional ceiling. As always, it all starts with the markup. To do this, you need to "draw" on your ceiling a sketch of your multilevel ceiling, then align it and install the brackets (U-shaped suspension) at the attachment points. Since our ceiling should be multi-level, then, therefore, part of the brackets is exposed at one height, and part at another. After you have done this, you only need to install the ceiling profile and fix the drywall sheets on it.

And what if you want, say, to make not a rectilinear multi-level ceiling, but with various kinds of circles, smooth transitions, roundings, and so on? Do not get lost in conjectures, since the familiar PP profile is again used, with the only difference that, as the roundness and smooth transitions are established, small cuts are made with the help of metal scissors or nippers, along which the profile and bends to the required radius. In this case, it is also necessary to take into account the fact that too close cuts can lead to instability of the entire frame structure, therefore, they should be made as needed. In addition, such ceilings can only be created in fairly spacious rooms - from twenty square meters, and therefore tenants of small-sized cars can simply forget about their ideas, at least, do it on their own. In all other respects, the structure of the frame of a curved multi-level ceiling, by the way of its installation, is naturally similar to the installation of a frame for rectilinear multi-level ceilings, although it should be noted that it is necessary to use U-shaped suspensions much more often, since, nevertheless, this structure is more unstable and complex.

Conclusion!

That's basically all that we wanted to tell you. Now you can independently install the frame for cladding using drywall surfaces of the walls or ceiling, while having the minimum necessary equipment, profile, fasteners and, of course, the stock of knowledge gained in our article.

Tsugunov Anton Valerievich

Reading time: 4 minutes

In the process of repairing or redeveloping an apartment, the question inevitably arises of the reconstruction and modernization of old walls, the construction of new partitions or. An excellent solution in this case would be the use of drywall. It is easy to work with this material. Difficulties can only be caused by the installation of the profile to which the sheets of gypsum board are attached, but you can easily cope with it with your own hands without the involvement of outside help, if you know how to properly perform this part of the work.

Tool

For work you will need:

• Building level and plumb line.
• Roulette and chop cord.
• Perforator and screwdriver.
• Metal scissors and pliers.
• Hammer and screwdriver.
• Utility knife and marker.

The list of tools can be supplemented with some professional accessories, which are not necessary for simple installation: they can be replaced with a simpler tool.

The use of a cutter when assembling a frame from a profile can not only reduce the number of self-tapping screws in the abutting parts of the structure. The use of such a docking will allow you to avoid differences between the heads of the screws and the surface, which is especially important on the plane, which will subsequently be sewn up with drywall.

Materials for work

Now it is rare to find a drywall frame made of wooden blocks, because wood loses its properties over time, and changes in temperature or humidity can cause deformation of the material. For work on the manufacture of the frame, metal profiles are used, which are more durable and do an excellent job of creating multi-level structures. When installing a frame structure with your own hands, even a non-professional master is able to independently calculate the number of necessary elements.

Profile views

Before starting the design, it is worth deciding on the types and purpose of the profiles.

• The UD guide profile is used to define the plane of future structures and interfacing between several planes in complex elements.
• Carrying profile CD is intended for further installation of drywall and is designed to withstand the loads created by finishing materials.
• Reinforced profiles UW and CW are similar in purpose and differ in size. Suitable for between rooms.

Fasteners

Also, connecting and fastening elements are needed, thanks to which the entire structure acquires additional rigidity.

• The straight CD connector is used to connect two support profiles into one component.
• The cross-shaped CD connector is designed for transverse mounting of support columns in a single-level structure.
• A two-level CD connector is required when joining elements at different levels.
• The U-shaped bracket is used to fasten the bearing profiles to the wall or ceiling surface at the required distance.

These are just the main connecting elements, manufacturers have a much larger assortment designed for a specific type of fastening, for example, for the device of a multi-level ceiling frame, there are various suspensions that allow you to create complex planes with your own hands that can withstand drywall sheets.

Additional materials

To fix the structural elements, it is necessary to ensure the availability of consumables and auxiliary materials. These include:

• Sealing tape for guide elements. It is a strip of foamed polyethylene with an adhesive applied; it serves as an insulating layer between the base and the part to be fixed.
• Impact dowels with minimum size 6 x 40, which are intended for the installation of the structure.
• Self-tapping screws for metal, which are used to connect racks and fasteners together.

If the structure contains doorways or similar openings, they must be reinforced to meet strength requirements. The easiest way to do this with your own hands is with the help of a wooden bar, which must be inserted into the profile framing the opening and secured with self-tapping screws in increments of 20 cm.

Before the start of the construction phase, a sketch of the future structure should be prepared. Such an event will determine the amount of material required and, accordingly, the cost of the upcoming work. For such calculations, you need to know some design features and requirements for the placement of elements.

• The distance between the guides is calculated based on the width of the drywall sheet, which is 120 cm.They are installed in 40 cm increments for increased load (ceiling, etc.) or 60 cm for normal conditions(wall cladding).
• Suspensions should be placed at a distance of 50 cm, and in case of increased requirements for strength or in places where complex nodes are located, their additional installation is possible.

Surface marking

To continue the work, it is necessary to transfer the markup from the preliminary sketch to the surface.

• It is worth starting by determining the curvature of the sides of the room. The distance between opposite walls can vary by several centimeters, and when marking, you should focus on obtaining right angles with minimal loss of space. Having decided on the initial line on the floor, you can start transferring the markings to the walls and ceiling.
• To transfer lines to the wall, you can use a plumb line, with which you should mark a clear vertical line. In such cases, the presence of a laser level can greatly simplify the work, although good accuracy can be achieved with the help of a plumb bob.

The process of marking under the profile can also be facilitated with the help of a paint line. In this case, the cord is held at the points of the beginning and end of the line, then, pulling it back a little, it is released, as a result of which the necessary marking is obtained.

• The next step on the plane between the walls is to mark the vertical lines. A distance of 60 cm between them is the most optimal, subsequently a guide profile will be installed here.
• Then, on the marked vertical lines, in a checkerboard pattern with a step of 50 cm, places are allocated for a fastening suspension. The application of such markings will allow you to completely prepare the surface for further installation and greatly facilitate the work.

When applying markings for performing work on arranging the ceiling, the first priority will be to break the horizontal level, which can be done using the simplest hydraulic level or laser level. When marking the ceiling, keep in mind that the distance between the ceiling rail system and the lowest point of the ceiling must be at least 4 cm.

In the process of applying markings with your own hands, it should be remembered that such works do not show the final size of the room and to determine the future area, it is necessary to take into account the thickness of the drywall sheet.

Assembly

The frame assembly process is as follows:

• The guide profiles are installed first, which, if necessary, are pre-cut. Before fixing, a sealing tape is glued to the profile at the points of abutment to the base, which will provide proper heat and sound insulation between the surface and the structural elements.