How to lay out a brick. How to lay a brick: actions with a photo, how to lay a brick yourself

This is a laborious and complex process, on which the strength of the entire structure depends entirely. If the technology is violated, then cracks may appear in the independently rebuilt structure or it will collapse altogether. It is also important to observe accuracy and accuracy in the process of laying the cladding material, since it is the topcoat and the face of the whole house.

You will need the following tools:

• a container for mixing the solution and a bucket;
• shovel;
• trowel (trowel);
• hammer pick;
• cord (to determine the border);
• jointing;
• building level and plumb line;
• ordering;
• templates.

Before you start laying bricks on your own, you need to properly prepare the foundation of the building. The surface on which walls or other structures will be erected must be thoroughly cleaned of debris and dirt. The building level checks evenness, since if it has deviations, then the walls will be inclined.

Before laying the basement on a foundation or other structure, you need to close it with a waterproofing layer. The upper part is covered with two layers of roofing material. The second roll is rolled over the first with an overlap of at least 10-15 cm. It is glued either using a special mixture or by heating. Waterproofing will protect against moisture that can pass from the foundation.

The next step is to lay the first row without mortar. Walls look their best if they are made of solid blocks only, without any cut pieces (halves or quarters). They are initially placed with a standard joint width of 10 mm. To make it the same everywhere, a metal template is used. If, after laying out, a brick protrudes or is not enough at the edge of the row, then either increase the width of the seam or decrease it (but not more than 2 mm for both cases). Since the maximum seam width is building codes- 12 mm. If you still need to add the cut-off part, then you need to immediately decide on the place of its installation. If the masonry is carried out above the plinth, then it is possible for it to partially protrude above it, since the plinth will later be plastered.

After everything is laid out and the desired width of the seams is determined, marks must be made on the foundation or plinth, indicating the location of the vertical seams. To start laying out the first row should be from the same material that was used for dry laying, since some of them may have dimensional errors.

Mixing technology

The most commonly used cement-sand composition. Do not make too much of the mixture, as it hardens within two to three hours. Before laying, a solid red brick can be moistened with water, then it will not pull water out of the solution, and the seam will turn out to be more durable.

For cooking on your own, you will need 1 part cement and 4 parts sand, as well as a liquid dishwashing detergent. It will make it more plastic. Cement and sand are poured into a mixing container and mixed thoroughly. The mixture should be smooth and lump-free. After that, water is added to it in such an amount that the consistency of the solution looks like thick sour cream. At the same time, dishwashing liquid or liquid soap diluted in water is poured in.

Instructions, methods and schemes

The most common masonry methods are flush and press. In the first case, the cement-sand mortar is not applied to the very edge on the outside of the brick, but an indent of 2-3 cm is left. Due to this, the mixture will not come out after pressing. When placing a spoon row, the technology is as follows: the block is held at an angle and the butt part rakes the composition at a distance of 8-12 cm from the previously set one. The styling scheme with the bonded part is exactly the same.

A row is called a spoon row if the material is placed along the foundation, a butt row - if it is across. In order to lay a brick using the press-on method, a cement-sand mortar is applied to the surface in such an amount that 5 poke or 3 spoon can be installed. At a distance of 1-1.5 cm from the outer edge, the mixture does not need to be put according to this scheme. Then the seam will be neat and beautiful after grouting.

Pressing method:

• A cement-sand mortar is applied and leveled with a trowel.
• Part of the mixture is raked with a trowel to the end of the already installed simple or facing brick.
• The next one is installed and pressed against the trowel.
• The trowel is pulled out and the block is pushed in.
• Surplus is removed.

The laying of facing bricks or simple bricks should be started from the corners, since they will be used as guidelines. For this, a cord is pulled between adjacent corners. It should be positioned horizontally. After that, a solution is applied to the surface of the foundation. Smooth it to a thickness of 2-2.5 cm, so that after laying it becomes 1.2 cm. Do not cover the entire area with the mixture at once, but only for two blocks placed by the spoon method, or four for the butt row.

To make the seam exactly of this thickness, a special metal template for the mortar is used, its diameter is 12 mm. Lay the template along the edge of the foundation from the outside. After the cement-sand mixture is smoothed out, a brick is laid and slightly pressed down. The evenness of its installation is checked, and if it lies unevenly, then it is leveled by tapping with a pick-hammer.

The laid out rows must be checked for verticality; for this, plumb lines are used. To control the horizontal level, order is used. The rail with marks is fastened with staples. The distance between the divisions should be equal to the thickness of the block together with the seam. In order for convenience, you can make holes and stretch the cord through them. It will make it much easier to keep track of the horizontal level. brickwork.

Suture dressing guide

In order for the wall to be strong and the load is evenly distributed over it, it is necessary to ensure the dressing of the seams. To do this, the next row is placed with an offset of half or one third from the brick. Adjacent rows (top or bottom) should not have vertical seams overlapping. To bandage parallel rows, it is necessary to start laying every 3-5 rows with the poke method, and not with a spoon. In this case, the seams should not coincide with the bottom row.

There are also many other dressing schemes with different masonry technologies and patterns. The most common are single and multi-row. The first category includes such dressing systems as Dutch, chain, cross. Their instructions are the same, the only difference is in the bonding and spoon styling. For bonded rows, a solid brick is used, and for spoon rows, half. When stacking in multiple rows, alternation occurs, for example, in a three-row stack, one butt is placed every 3 spoonfuls.

The nuances of facing brick masonry

The main difference between a cladding block and a conventional block is its decorative characteristics. It is used as a topcoat. Therefore, it is extremely important to immediately correctly and accurately lay it. Just as for the usual one, it is necessary to lay the first row of facing material dry and determine the places where the segments will be located. A grinder with a stone disc is used for sawing.

Management:

• From one corner to the second, one row completely lies.
• Then they begin to form corners, stacking 5-6 rows.
• To make the seams even and the cement-sand mixture does not get on the building material, a metal template is used.
• Once the corners are formed, a cord is pulled between them so that the next rows are even.
• To make the vertical seams even, use a metal template with a shorter length.
• Each next row is placed offset so that the vertical seams do not coincide.
• If the mixture gets on the outer decorative side, then it is immediately removed, since after drying it is much more difficult to remove the solution.
• In order for the handmade brickwork to be durable, it must be connected to the main wall. For this, metal bonds are used, for example, spiral nails. There should be at least 4 of them per 1 m2. The nails are screwed into the main wall so that they are in the seams between the bricks.

Beginner mistakes

Due to non-compliance with the requirements and rules of construction, emergency situations often arise. Cracks appear in the walls, in some places the building material begins to fall off altogether. If laying is carried out without using templates, plumb lines and building levels, then the probability that it will be uneven is extremely high. Finishing such a wall with a topcoat will be difficult and will require increased costs.

• Many novice builders lay bricks without measuring the thickness of the seam, or do not use mortar for vertical seams at all. Walls laid according to this principle will poorly retain heat in the house, since the vertical seams will be blown through.
• Do not lay bricks at an angle. It should only lie horizontally. Inexperienced builders often do not follow the location of the vertical seams, as a result, they begin to coincide, and this leads to the fragility of the structure, which can cause it to collapse.
• Another common mistake is poorly filled seams. When applying mortar, builders do not calculate its rate or save too much. A house built with your own hands using this method will have reduced thermal insulation characteristics.
• When laying the facing material, you need to carefully monitor its cleanliness, since the entire appearance at home.

It is quite possible for even inexperienced builders to lay bricks with their own hands. If it is necessary to strengthen the structure, then use a reinforced mesh. It is placed every 4-5 rows.

The strength of the walls of a brick building directly depends not only on quality building material including brick and cement mortar, but also from the weather conditions during which the construction of the walls takes place. And the most important condition, of such kind construction works, is the professionalism of a bricklayer who knows firsthand how to lay bricks correctly.

At first glance, it may seem that there is no option other than just laying the brick evenly, that it is simply impossible to arrange it crookedly, in the end, the brick has the shape of a rectangle and therefore, by laying it in rows, you can achieve a perfectly flat wall. But this is a completely erroneous judgment.

In order to properly lay a brick wall, the following requirements must be observed:

• keep track of the same amount of mortar applied under the brick, otherwise it will be difficult to achieve an even edge of the outer row of masonry;
• a brick placed on a prepared working surface should lie parallel to the row, as a result of which its outer side will coincide with the plane of the brickwork, that is, it will be oriented along three axes of rotation;
• observe three basic rules: the correct linear position of the brick, the same height of the masonry with other rows, tight fit to the adjacent brick.

But even if these requirements are met, if there is no experience in working as a bricklayer, then nothing may work out right away. For this case, in this article we present information on how to learn how to lay bricks on your own.

In order to properly organize the workflow for laying bricks, in addition to building material, you must have a whole set special tools and accessories.

Required tools

1. Mortar or a mixture for laying bricks (we will tell you about the composition of the mortar and the method of preparation a little below);
2. Bricks (building material);
3. Construction wheelbarrow (necessary for easy delivery of bricks from the storage site to the working area);
4. Trowel or trowel (using this tool, a solution is laid out on the working surface of the brick and excess mixture is removed);
5. Construction glasses (used to protect the eyes from mechanical damage and dust);
6. Carpenter's square (for joining the corner pieces of brickwork);
7. Level (will help to lay out both the first layer of masonry and subsequent ones);
8. Pickaxe hammer (designed for breaking bricks);
9. Roulette (for linear measurements during work);
10. Chalk cord (will help determine the brick laying line);
11. Mason's cord (allows you to create straight lines of horizontal rows of brickwork).

Preparation of the solution

It is not difficult to prepare a mortar for brickwork. It consists of cement and sand, the optimal ratio between the components is 1: 5, that is, we take one part of cement and five parts of sand. Sometimes clay or lime is added to the mixture to give plasticity.

At the first stage of preparing the solution, it is necessary to mix the cement and sand in a dry form, take the finished mixture in small parts and combine with water, stirring thoroughly. This will avoid the hardening of the over-prepared mortar and, accordingly, save on the purchase of an additional batch of cement.

To save mortar, it is better not to use a "hollow" brick, since most of the mixture will go into the hole and the mortar will not be enough to fix the brick. You can read more about preparing mortar for masonry.

Currently, when building houses or summer cottages, not all resort to the help of professional builders. Someone is limited in finances, someone wants to fulfill one of the three life rules, which state that a real man should "build a house, plant a tree, raise a son." It is for such people that the next section of our article is intended.

DIY brickwork technology

If, nevertheless, there was a decision to build a brick house on your own, then you need to know how to properly lay a brick wall. If a certain number of requirements are not met, it may turn out that the design will be unreliable. And the first rule says that bricklaying should be started only after the foundation has completely solidified, otherwise, the wall may lead to one side and all the work will be down the drain.

• So that there are no doubts about the correctness of the start of construction work, you need to watch the video on our website, which will tell you in detail how to learn how to lay a brick.

• Getting started laying out the first layer of brick, it is necessary to put on the foundation, folded in two layers, roofing material. You should first decide how the wall will be erected: in one brick, one and a half or two bricks.

• It is easy to guess that if the first row of bricks goes crooked, then all subsequent ones will be the same. That's why you must use special construction tools, which will help to correctly and evenly carry out the laying of bricks.

• The next requirement in the series is how to properly lay a brick wall is as follows, it is necessary to strictly observe the gap between the bricks, which should be at least 3 cm. This is necessary so that the solution is evenly distributed between them during laying.
• It is necessary at an enviable frequency check the direction of horizontal and vertical laying with a building level.

• From the correct calculation of the corners of the structure 50% of the success of all work depends. Before you start laying bricks, you first need to lay out the corners in several rows. It is very important to carry out the work using a horizontal and vertical level, since it depends on the angles how smoothly the walls will be laid. And throughout the entire work, it is necessary that the corners are rows two higher than the main walls.

• If plastering is planned in the future erected brick walls, it is necessary to use the "wasteland" method. It consists in distributing a certain volume of mortar between the bricks so that it does not fill the gaps between them.

• Laying out the chimney, it is necessary to ensure that the empty spaces between the bricks are completely filled with mortar. This is necessary so that soot does not settle in the pipe. Fully filled joints are also used for tiling.

brick order

• To create truly even and straight corners structures, you will need "ordering", which are metal corners that help determine the accuracy of the installation. To fix the order at an angle, special brackets are used, which ensure the accuracy of the design.

• Ensure that the bricks are laid evenly in the rows special construction tools such as a level, mason's cord, tape measure, chalk cord will help. And you should not neglect their use.

If at some point during independent construction work there were questions regarding the correct laying of bricks, then the video presented on our website will help you figure it out.

• When laying out brick walls, it is necessary to ensure that the seams in other rows do not coincide, otherwise the wall will lose its stability and fall apart under the influence of force.
• It is necessary to approach construction with special care and before laying a brick wall, it is best to draw a work plan, which will indicate the required number of bricks and the number of rows laid out.
• If there is no practice in laying out facing bricks, but there is such a need, then you can resort to the traditional laying of ordinary building bricks - the result will be the same. Facing brick differs from the usual one only in a more aesthetic appearance and in its purpose. If you still have doubts, then the laying of facing bricks is shown on our website in a step-by-step video, by watching which you can easily complete your plan.
• When calculating the required amount of bricks, you need to add 10% of the total volume to the resulting number, this is necessary because about a tenth of the bricks breaks during laying.
• In order for the mortar and the brick to have the greatest degree of adhesion, it is necessary to moisten the brick in a container with water before laying it on the mortar.
• To properly learn how to lay brickwork requires patience and haste is inappropriate. The mortar does not dry out immediately, therefore, if necessary, you can correct some of the shortcomings in the work.

If, after reading the article, you still do not have confidence that you can lay out a brick wall yourself, we can advise you to watch a video on how to lay brickwork. The video will clearly and in detail show all the stages of work.

May the walls of your home always be strong and reliable!

Brick is a multifunctional building stone of artificial origin, with which you can build almost anything. Perhaps this is the most popular building material, without which the improvement of any suburban

Tools and equipment

For brickwork, it is necessary to have:

• trowels for applying mortar to bricks;
• a hammer-pick, with the help of which the products will be suspended;
• additional tools, which include a cord, plumb line, level, etc.

For brickwork, an ordinary concrete mortar is used, prepared from cement and sand in a ratio of 1 to 5-6. The mortar is necessary for strengthening the masonry and gluing the individual bricks together. Sometimes they add either the usual washing powder- due to this, plasticity and fluidity increase, but it is prohibited to use it for hollow products, since the solution will flow into the cracks, which will negatively affect the thermal insulation properties of the material.

To prepare a solution, you must first mix dry cement with sand, and then dilute with water as needed.

Note! It is undesirable to mix more than 50 liters at a time, as the solution is consumed slowly. It is better to take a small amount of dry mixture and dilute it with water.

But if it is planned to carry out a large amount of masonry, and several builders are involved in the work at once, then it is more expedient to use it. Also note that it is recommended to use cement "three hundred" or "four hundred" grade.

Prices for cement and base mixes

Cement and base mixes

After preparing the solution, you can start laying directly.

How to lay the corners correctly

If you have seen how a professional bricklayer works, you probably noticed that he begins his work by removing the corners. First, each of the corners should be taken out in turn, while their height should slightly exceed the height of the middle sections of the walls. For this purpose, reference beacons are used, through which the cord is pulled - it will indicate the height and level of the masonry. It is necessary to pull the cord as tight as possible so that it does not sag during operation. Moreover, it is necessary to periodically re-lay with beacon bricks.

To form rectangular corners, it is necessary to use the so-called ordering - a special device, which is a flat iron square. On the order, you can make marks along the laying lines. The first two or three bricks must be laid using the rule, after which the order is established by means of brackets. A plumb line should be used for vertical positioning. According to the marks made in the order, a mooring cord is drawn.

Note! Experienced bricklayers do not like to use order, preferring to draw corners "by eye" and considering this tool the lot of only inexperienced craftsmen. But if you are laying bricks for the first time, then you cannot do without ordering.

Video - Laying corners

Types of seams

After laying out the corners in several rows, it is necessary to pull a cord between them (corners) and put the solution on. After that, you need to proceed to the main laying. To understand all the nuances, you need to familiarize yourself with at least the basic types of masonry seams.

There are several such seams, the most common of them are listed below.

1. Pustoshovka - the mortar in this case does not protrude above the surface of the bricks; there are small gaps that will be used for plastering. The plaster will flow into the cracks between the products, as a result of which it will adhere well.
2. Convex seams perform a purely decorative function. To form them, a piece of a rounded pipe, cut lengthwise, is used.
3. Concave seam function also purely decorative, but an ordinary, uncut pipe is already used for shaping.
4. Undercut the slots are completely filled and aligned with the surface of the bricks. Such masonry is used mainly for smooth surfaces (fireplaces, chimneys) in order to avoid the accumulation of soot, less often as decorative.

Main masonry

So, after removing the corners in several rows, you need to start the main laying. In the future, as the construction proceeds, the corners will rise. After the formation of the corners, a layer of mortar is applied to the foundation, and a cord is stretched between them. You need to pull it extremely tight to avoid problems with the evenness of the masonry. A mortar is applied to the end of the first brick, after which it (the brick) is placed close to the corner. All subsequent bricks are placed in the same way.

Note! The cord should only be pulled over the top level of the bricks.

For a tighter fit, more mortar is placed on the walls, after which each brick is tapped with the end of the trowel and aligned to the level of the cord. The solution that comes out is picked up with a trowel. Of course, if this is your first masonry, then the first few rows will have to be shifted anyway, but in two days the work will go faster.

Find out how it is made, as well as familiarize yourself with the choice of materials and laying technology, from our new article.

1. Reinforcement mesh is laid after every five to six rows.
2. The bricks should be tied, that is, to exclude the overlap of the seams of adjacent rows.
3. Before laying, each brick is immersed in water for better adhesion of the mortar.
4. If you are doing masonry for the first time, then start with primitive buildings (steps, posts, etc.). After such a training stage, it will be easier to lay out more complex structures - a summer kitchen, for example, or a brick grill.
5. After preparing the tools and consumables, it is advisable to carry out the so-called dry masonry (without using a solution) in order to identify possible flaws. If everything is fine, then you can start laying on the mortar.
6. For the first experience, the most suitable face brick(it has a smooth side) or a chocolate brick (with excellent decorative properties), the size of which is slightly smaller than usual. Conversely, you can use rough brick, which looks like natural stone.
7. Before proceeding directly to the laying, you need to draw up a detailed plan in which all the rows of bricks will be drawn. This will avoid unnecessary costs, since brick is a very expensive material. The dimensions of the brick are as follows: 6.5x12x25 cm. When calculating, you should "throw" about 10% more over the required amount, since a battle is inevitable (especially if the laying is done for the first time).

And remember the main thing - there is no need to rush. First, lay the brick dry, as we already talked about, then apply the mortar and start laying, tapping each product with the end of the trowel so that it takes the desired position. The solution that protrudes outward must be removed with a trowel and thrown back into the bucket.

You should not rush when working with a solution, because this is not a "Moment" that grasps in a few seconds. You will have plenty of time to experiment with the installation, remove and lay the mortar, turn the bricks to one side or the other - in short, make it perfect. After acquiring the appropriate skills, you can draw the required amount of mortar on the trowel from the first time and immediately install the brick in the required place. So the laying procedure will be performed much faster.

Building brick prices

Building brick

Find out with step by step instructions, from our new article.

And as a conclusion - a thematic video.

Video - Correct brick laying

Find out what masonry methods exist and what instruments use for brickwork.

The most reliable and high quality wall material is brick. Standard brick size- 250x120x65 mm. All other dimensions are derived from the standard: 250x120x88 mm, 250x120x140 mm, etc.

According to the material, the brick is ceramic(reddish) and silicate(white).

By weight, bricks are subdivided into corpulent and hollow... Hollow (lightweight) bricks significantly lighten the weight of the brickwork, thereby reducing the load on the foundation. In addition to reducing the weight, hollow bricks reduce the thermal conductivity of the wall, and, accordingly, the thickness of the wall is less.

In size, bricks are in the form ceramic blocks, which significantly exceed the size of a standard brick (250x120x65 mm). This, in turn, allows you to significantly reduce the time required for the construction of brickwork.

There are many types of bricks on the market today, and which one to choose is up to you.

Bricklaying tools

To build brick walls, you need the following tools:

1. - for applying and leveling mortar on brickwork;

2. - for splitting bricks according to the required size;

3. - for decorative processing of masonry seams;

4. - controls the thickness of the seams and the height of the masonry;

5. Strong cord (line)- stretched between corners, serves as a guide when leveling bricks;

6. - controls the verticality of the masonry;

7. Level- controls the horizontality of the masonry;

8., or a perforator with a mixer - for mixing the solution;

9. - controls the horizontal position of the vane over long distances.

Preparatory work

So, before erecting brick walls, you need to calculate in advance the necessary number of bricks and purchase them on the market with a margin, in case of defective bricks, unforeseen expenses and incorrect calculation.

To find out how many bricks you need, you need to calculate the thickness of the wall of the future house. To do this, use the help of specialists in this field.

Before starting work on masonry, you must lay roofing material on top of the foundation. This roofing material will serve as a waterproofing seal between the foundation and the brickwork.

In order not to constantly run after new bricks, spread the necessary number of bricks along the way.

Masonry mortar should be prepared with a ratio of 1: 4, i.e. four parts of sand and one part of cement. The sand for the mortar should be sieved so that large particles or stones do not come across during laying. You can pre-mix sand and cement in a large number without adding water. Then, if necessary, you can pour water into such a mixture and mix the solution of the desired density.

Types of brickwork

According to the suture dressing system, there are the following types brickwork:

1. Single row- when the butt and spoon rows alternate one after another;

2. Multi-row- this is when one butt row alternates with five to six spoon rows. In this case, the first row should be butted, and the next six rows should be spoon. The spoon row is tied up next next to the half-brick offset;

3. Three-row- This is a type of multi-row dressing of seams, when three spoon rows go in a row, and then one butt row. Spoon rows should go with bandaging of seams in half a brick.

By filling, brickwork is:

1. Solid- a brick is used to fill the backlog;

2. Lightweight- insulation is used to fill the cork.

By wall thickness, brickwork is:

1. Half brick- 120 mm;

2. Brick- 250 mm;

3. One and a half bricks- 380 mm;

4. Two bricks- 510 mm;

5. Two and a half bricks- 640 mm.

Brick wall technology

The construction of brick walls begins with the construction of the corners of future walls.

First, you need to mark the outer border of the walls and bring out all the corners. To do this, you can make U-shaped structures at each corner of the foundation (two pegs driven into the ground with a horizontal bar). Such constructions have already been described in the article "Do-it-yourself strip foundation".

Between the U-shaped structures, it pulls a strong cord, which will mark the outer border of the outer verst of masonry. The most important thing here is to bring all the diagonals to a single size so that the corners are absolutely right.

They spread along the stretched cords outer verst angle lifting it 4-5 bricks. The most important thing here is to lay out bricks with the same horizontal seam thickness of 12 mm. Ordering will help you with this matter.

It is a wooden block with marked divisions indicating the thickness of the seam and the thickness of the brick. If you use a regular brick with a thickness of 65 mm, then the divisions are applied every 77 mm (65 + 12 = 77 mm). If you are using a thicker brick with a thickness of 88 mm, then the divisions are applied every 100 mm. The ordering is fixed with dowels 6x60, driven into the seams of the brickwork. In addition to a wooden block, you can use a metal profile.

A layer of mortar 20 mm thick is laid on a layer of roofing material and leveled with a trowel. The first brick is laid on an even layer of mortar and, using a level and a hammer, the brick is leveled until it reaches a horizontal level. Before laying the next brick, mortar is applied to the side of the previous brick, and then the next brick is laid. The joint width between the bricks should be 10 mm. The mortar released from the horizontal and vertical joints is removed with a trowel and the side edge of the laid brick is applied.

All vertical joints are bridged with overlying bricks, thus achieving the strength of the brickwork.

Every 5-6 rows, brickwork must be reinforce... For this, a reinforcing mesh with a diameter of rods of 5-8 mm is laid along the entire row, a layer of mortar is lined and the next row of bricks is laid.

After laying out the first corner, you need to lay out the rest of the corners so that they are all at the same height. The hydro level will help you with this.

It consists of two flasks connected by a flexible tube. Water is poured into the hydro level so that its level can be seen in two flasks at the same time. The pipe at the water level can be of any length, thanks to which it is possible to control the horizontal level at a distance of up to 20 m.

Having laid out all the corners of the outer verst, you can start laying bricks around the perimeter. To do this, you need to pull the line between two corners at the level of the top of the first row of bricks, pressing the line with a brick (as shown in the picture).

Having laid out 1-2 rows of masonry of the outer verst, you need to lay out in the same way inner mile... Then the space between the versts is filled with bricks or insulation. This space is called zabotka.

Don't forget after each row embroider horizontal and vertical seams... If you are going to plaster the wall, then you do not need to embroider the seams, you just need not fill the seams by 1 cm for better adhesion of the plaster to the brick.

The second option, if you are going to leave the brickwork as a decorative component of your home, then you need to process all the seams jointing... The seam can be made convex or concave, it can be made in the form of a trapezoid, it all depends on your desire. But in this case, the brickwork should be done almost perfectly. All seams should be even and the same width, bricks should not have chips, cracks and other defects. And for such masonry, facing brick is required. I would not recommend cladding without experience in simple brickwork.

And the third option, if you are going to decorate the walls outside, for example with siding, and inside with plasterboard, then the seams are aligned flush with the brickwork in order to save time when erecting brickwork.

Do not forget that in addition to the outer walls there are also internal partitions , which are made with a thickness of half a brick (120 mm). For a strong connection of the partitions with the main wall, it is necessary to release bricks from the outer wall by 120 mm every 4-5 rows.

Above door and window openings fit reinforced concrete lintel... It can be ordered from the factory but requires a crane to install it. If you do not have a crane, then the lintel is poured directly above the opening, while you need to make the formwork and lay the reinforcement cage.

When laying window and door openings, it is imperative to do quarters top and sides. The quarters on the sides represent the outer verst of the masonry extended by 120 mm into the opening. A quarter on top of the opening is done with a step fill reinforced concrete lintel, or located on different levels ready-made factory jumpers.

In places where slabs, wall edges, cornices are supported, rows of brickwork are laid jabs.

Unfinished brickwork follows cover with plastic for protection from rain. In the event that raindrops hit the brickwork, the formation of efflorescence on it in the future is very large.

Observing the above brick wall construction technology, you can build a country house or cottage for yourself.

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Therefore, the most important thing is high-quality masonry. After reading this article, you will not become a professional master, but you will be able to gain the necessary knowledge and understanding of how this work is done. Moreover, you will learn that laying bricks with your own hands is quite within the power of everyone.

There are several different types brickwork:

1. With cladding.
2. Reinforced.
3. Decorative.
4. Solid.
5. Lightweight.

Quite high requirements are imposed on brickwork. The result should be a flat wall surface, and the laid out rows should be in the same plane.

Now we suggest that you familiarize yourself with the common methods of brickwork, which we will consider in more detail:

• Undercut.
• In a semi-filler.

The choice of one method or another is influenced by the season when the work is carried out, the degree of brick moisture, the viscosity of the solution.

This type of masonry requires a plastic mortar. Also, the difference is that the seams on the front side are not completely filled.

• An indent is made from the edge of the outer wall for laying the mortar 2–3 cm. This will allow the mortar not to go outside the brick.
• If a spoon row is put, then the process looks like this: hold one brick at an angle and rake the mortar with a butt edge at a distance of 8–12 cm from the already laid one. Next, move the second brick to the laid one. Press and align it. The third is deposited directly on the brick.

• If you are laying the Bonder Row, the process is the same as for the Spoon Row. It is necessary to scoop up the mortar with the spoon edge of the brick.

When laying masonry using this method, it is necessary to use a sufficiently thick solution with a cone draft of up to 9 cm. The solution is laid out and immediately leveled on the surface for 3 spoon and 5 bricks. The distance from the front side when spreading the solution is 1–1.5 cm. The process itself is performed as follows:

1. The laid out mixture is leveled over the masonry surface with a trowel.
2. Next, the mortar is partially raked up with the edge of the trowel on the vertical side of the brick, which is already in place.
3. Bring the next brick to the trowel and press it. Pull the trowel out and clamp the mixture with a brick.
4. After that, press the brick with your hand and trim the mortar from the front side.

This method of masonry is chosen when complete filling of horizontal and vertical joints is required. So, the work process looks like this:

• An indent of 1–1.5 cm is made from the front wall, similarly to the pressure and spread the mortar.
• The solution should have a mobility of 10-12 cm.
• The brick is laid out on the mixture in the same way as in the filling.

Method in semi-filler

The half-buried masonry method includes the following steps:

• The mortar is applied and leveled between the outer and inner versts.
• Then zabutku laying begins.
• In this case, 2 bricks are placed, the distance between the laid elements should not be more than 8 cm.
• When laying bricks, a small amount of mortar is raked in with an edge.
• If in the process the solution has poorly filled the seam, then it can be applied in the next row.
• The transverse seams must be filled immediately.

To keep the masonry horizontal and straight, it is necessary to use a mooring cord. It should be tightened after every 5 m. The cord should not sag. Use brackets to secure it.

Today, single-row and multi-row masonry is often used in construction. As for the single-row, the outer wall is laid first, and then the inner one. With a multi-row, a step and mixed method is used.

To work, you need the following:

• cement mortar;
• sand;
• jointing for seams;
• mixing container;
• level;
• shovel;
• nails;
• plumb line;
• hammer pickaxe;
• cord;
• Master OK;
• building corner.

Before starting work, it is necessary to thoroughly clean the foundation from possible dirt, to ensure high-quality adhesion of the brick to the base. After that, it is necessary to prepare a solution and deliver a brick and all the necessary tools to the place of work.

There are several types of masonry mortar:

• Lime. Although the mortar is plastic and warm, unlike cement mortar, it has low strength. Its preparation is carried out from sand, lime dough and ground quicklime.
• Cement-lime. It consists of lime paste and cement. It is distinguished by its high strength and ductility. It can be used for a variety of types of masonry.
• Cement. The preparation takes place from sand and cement. The solution is cold and has low mobility and is also too hard.

Cement grades 0 and 2 are used extremely rarely. The most common are 4, 10, 25, 50 and 75. As for cement grades 100, 150 and 200, their use is extremely rare and is used in specific works.

The solution must be sufficiently mobile. To identify this indicator, take a special cone, which should be placed in the prepared mixture. High degree mobility is determined by the degree of immersion of the cone.

Lightweight masonry

This technology is often used in the construction of country houses. Considering that the cost of bricks is high, in order to save money, the masonry can be anchored or well. In the process of the well, voids are formed in the form of a rectangular well. This technique will save you up to 20% of bricks.

The wells themselves are filled with a heat insulator. Accordingly, the thermal insulation properties of the wall can be improved. Moreover, the load on the foundation is also reduced. The only drawback is the heterogeneity of the walls, which leads to a decrease in their strength. Moreover, if the insulating material shrinks, then voids may form in the wall, and accordingly this will lead to heat loss.

Lightweight masonry begins with the first thing to lay out several rows of inner mile and outer spoon bricks with inserts. This is done through the same parts of the butt bricks. As a result, a vertical diaphragm will be formed, the distance between which should not be more than 1170 mm. As for the inner verst, it is laid out at 0.5; 1 and 1.5 bricks. It is also necessary to make a dressing every 4-5 rows. It is performed in the place where the outer and load-bearing walls are adjacent. This will provide sufficient wall strength. Also, in order to reduce the likelihood of large shrinkage, horizontal diaphragms are equipped every 4-6 rows, as indicated in the figure above. For example, a solution is applied to a tightly packed heat insulator. To reinforce the diaphragm, place reinforcement Ø 8–10 mm on top or, as an option, a steel mesh made of wire Ø 4–6 mm. After that, another layer of solution is applied on top. The diaphragms are arranged at intervals of 0.5–0.7 m.

Alternatively, you can make a brick diaphragm. In this case, solid horizontal bricks of the diaphragm are laid in two rows on the same level with the opening of the window and ceiling.

When performing lightweight masonry, the durability of the building will be short. For this reason, the laying of the corners must be done with good quality. To improve the quality of the structure, corners with three-row solid diaphragms can be made. The sequence looks like this:

1. From rows 1 to 3, lay out the bricks in a solid one.
2. Wells from 4 rows are made from 4 rows.
3. When the wells are filled with a heat insulator, and a screed is made on top of it, lay out a three-row solid diaphragm.

According to this scheme, the laying of the walls continues to the very top.

This method is a type of well masonry. This is especially true if the insulation can be made from concrete mortar. The arrangement is not much different from the well.

The masonry process is as follows:

• 1 row is laid out in full.
• After the spoon row, internal and external parallel versts are laid out.
• Further, for bandaging a verst, butt bricks are laid out.
• The pins must be inserted so that they do not form a vertical diaphragm. Accordingly, when poured with concrete, they will perform the rail anchors over the entire inner surface.

As a result, this masonry method will perfectly retain heat and create a solid monolith.

Junction bricks can be placed in any order. The concrete itself is poured in stages. After pouring the heat insulator, the masonry must be carried out from the butt row.

The wall must have strength and be monolithic. For this reason, the load must be evenly distributed. This is achieved by bandaging the seams. This process refers to the process of vertical displacement of the seams in each row. For this, the brick is laid 1/4 or 1/2 relative to the already laid. There are 2 types of seam dressing: multi-row and single-row.

During construction, this method is not used very often. For example, when laying corners, it will take a lot of 3/4 bricks, it is important to have the skills of a bricklayer. All this affects the speed and elapsed time of work.

• chain;
• Dutch;
• cross;
• Gothic.

The principle is similar in all cases, but the difference lies in the bonding and spoon laying. The stick is made in a whole brick, and the spoon is in half a brick.

Multi-row

This method of dressing is more economical. For several spoon rows, there is 1 row of bonded ones. There are several multi-row masonry systems. Each of them is formed based on the number of spoon rows, the ligation of which is carried out with one butt row:

• In a three-row one - there are 3 spoon rows for 1 bonder.
• In a four-row - there are 4 spoon rows for 1 butt.
• In a five-row - there are 5 spoon rows for 1 bonder.

So, we examined with you the main nuances of brickwork. We hope this information will help you understand this work. If you have any questions or know about other subtleties, leave comments at the end of this article.

Video

In the provided video materials, it is described in more detail about brick laying: