Monolithic slab on tise piles. Self-construction of foundations using Tise technology

Tise pile-grillage foundation

Natural forces often have a significant impact on objects built on the soil surface. Sometimes the magnitude of such loads leads to partial or complete destruction of the foundation and the impossibility of further operation of the structure. To reduce this impact, the Tise pile-grillage foundation was invented. The features of its design and manufacturing technology will be discussed further.

Getting to know the foundation of TISE

As noted above, the foundation with the incomprehensible name TISE belongs to the pile-grillage group. Their feature is the successful combination of concrete foundations. At the same time, there is a significant saving in concrete and production time.

The Tise columnar foundation, unlike the traditional pile foundation, has one essential feature– its supports are almost impossible to squeeze out of the soil by the forces of off-season heaving. Thereby this basis has a number of positive qualities:

• It can be used on almost 97% of all types of soil available in our country. Thus, the chise foundation can be fully considered universal.
• Unlike traditional strip and pile foundations, which require mandatory loading in the winter, the described type of foundation can remain unloaded. This property is indispensable in individual construction, especially in the absence of the required quantity Money for the entire scope of work.

All of the above is connected with one feature of tise piles - they have a significant expansion in the lower part, the so-called sole. It is thanks to it that the total load on the foundation is distributed over large area soil, and also prevents extrusion of piles.

Technologically, it is impossible to obtain a well of the required shape using traditional screw drills, manual and mechanical. For the foundation tise you will need to purchase special tool quite complex design. Due to great demand, it is not difficult to buy it in any city; in addition, there is also the possibility of renting it.

Chise pillars are often supplemented with a special concrete banding, which in construction is called a grillage. Thanks to it, you can use a fairly large list wall materials when constructing structures on similar types of foundations.

IN last years Often under houses there is also a foundation slab according to the TISE system.

Until now, it has not been possible to obtain an ideal type of foundation. Each of them has both positive and negative aspects. Tise technology has its pros and cons. However, there are few negative aspects. The main one is to limit the load, which does not allow the use of foundations under multi-storey buildings and buildings made of brick and concrete.

Technologically, building a foundation using Tise technology with your own hands is quite affordable. To give an idea of ​​the process, below we will consider its main stages.

DIY TISE foundation. Design

Work should begin outside construction site. It is necessary to carry out a foundation design using Tise technology using the design bureau, professional builders, or independently. It is first necessary to design the house itself, select its number of storeys, the material of the walls and ceilings, the type of roof and the type of roofing material.

Errors at this stage of work are fraught with the futility of all subsequent actions. An incorrect design will either lead to unjustified costs for the construction of an overly reinforced TISE foundation, or, more dangerously, to a foundation that will not be able to withstand the load applied to it. We recommend that you turn to professionals at this stage.

Preparation and marking of the site

Directly at the site of future construction of the foundation using Tise technology, you should start with leveling the site. In addition, professionals recommend removing the top layer of soil to a depth of about 250 mm. This can be done either manually using a shovel or bayonet shovel, or using special equipment.

Next, markings are made according to which the piles will be located using the Tise technology. The outer and inner perimeters of the walls of the house are preliminarily outlined. In the middle between them there will be a line on which the drilling points are located. It is easy to calculate the number of TISE foundation supports by dividing the expected weight of the structure by bearing capacity each pile. The distance between the wells is calculated by dividing the perimeter of the walls by the required number of holes in the ground.

Drilling of the wells

Each stage of manufacturing a TISE foundation is important for overall result. Wells must be drilled strictly vertically to the required depth. The load-bearing capacity of a chise pile depends on its length and diameter. In private housing construction, supports with a width of 200 mm are mainly used, therefore, the main variable is the length of the concrete rod.

If it is necessary to complete this stage in a short time, it is better to use the services of professional drillers and specialized construction equipment on automobile chassis. If the construction budget is limited, you will have to perform this difficult operation manually.

A special feature of the TISE foundation drill is the presence of an additional deflecting knife that can move away from the body of the tool at a certain depth. Thanks to this, the well, which is cylindrical throughout its entire length, acquires an expansion at the bottom with a diameter of 600 mm. As a rule, this value is sufficient to achieve desired result. To obtain piles of the required length, the drill is equipped with additional rods. To make the process easier, you can use a rented motor drill.

Formwork and concreting

To obtain a foundation with the required characteristics, it is mandatory to install formwork in the wells. To do this, you can select ready-made plastic or asbestos-cement pipes, or use sheets of roofing felt. Keeping in mind the limited construction budget, we will dwell in detail on the cheapest option.

Having drilled holes for the pile of the required depth, a sheet of roofing material of slightly greater length is cut from the roll. Then it is rolled lengthwise and lowered into a hole in the ground. After this, the roofing material is straightened inside so that it is adjacent to the walls of the well.

To obtain high-strength concrete, it is necessary to reinforce the chise pile. For this purpose, class AIII steel reinforcement with a diameter of 10 or 12 mm is used. As a rule, four long rods are lowered into each well. On the soil surface, the rods must first be connected with jumpers made of similar or less thick reinforcement. To do this, use soft knitting wire or welding.

After completing the formwork and reinforcement, the foundation of the tise is filled with concrete. Moreover, for the subsequent installation of a grillage - an airy concrete strip raised above the ground, the head of each pile must be located at a certain height relative to the soil level. You can mix concrete either in a concrete mixer or buy it ready-made for delivery using an automixer.

Making a grillage

When used as wall building materials timber or lumber, you can make a foundation without a grillage. For other cases, it is necessary to make a concrete frame. It is a rectangular strip hanging on stilts above the ground.

To obtain a high-quality foundation, formwork for the grillage is installed. It is a wooden box installed along the entire length of future walls. To avoid subsidence under the entire formwork, temporary sand bedding is carried out to the height of the installation of the strapping. The formwork should be positioned in such a way that the protruding parts of the chise pile rods are located inside.

Having installed and strengthened the formwork, we begin to reinforce the grillage. Similar to reinforcing piles, pre-connected reinforcing bars are placed inside the formwork. Using vertical jumpers, a gap to the bottom plane of the grillage is reached at least 5 cm. A similar distance of the armored belt must be maintained to the side and top edges.

When reinforcing the TISE foundation grillage, special attention should be paid to the corners and junctions of the partitions. Here the rods, previously bent at a right angle, must overlap each other by at least 1 meter. This will provide the required strength to the grillage. You can also strengthen the concrete strip by using reinforcement of a larger diameter.

Having installed the reinforcing frame, it is filled with concrete, prepared directly at the work site or purchased at a concrete plant. To compact the mass and remove air, the mixture is treated with a construction vibrator. After this, the surface of the grillage is covered with burlap and left.

In order for the foundation to gain maximum strength, it is necessary to moisten the covering material during the first few weeks. This is especially true in the case of hot, dry weather conditions. After curing for several months, you can begin further work. It is better to install the lower floors on several rows of masonry, since it is impractical to make a floor on a foundation because of high heat losses in the future.

In individual construction, the TISE foundation, which is a pile-grillage poured structure, is quite in demand. It is effective on different soils, regardless of the terrain (mountainous or flat). If the pouring instructions are followed, use is permissible in areas with increased seismic activity. In addition, according to reviews of many experts, its filling is economical and less labor-intensive.

The abbreviation was proposed by the author of the idea, designer Yakovlev Rashid Nikolaevich and stands for “Technology individual construction and ecology." It comes down to pouring piles and a grillage raised above the ground ( strip foundation). For their production, concrete grades M 300–400 are used with the addition of crushed stone, fraction up to 25 mm. Required condition reliability of the structure - reinforcement. To increase the bearing capacity of the support, a hemispherical expansion is installed at its base. Therefore, even monolithic structures with a height of up to 3 floors do not shrink during operation.

The strip part of the foundation using TISE technology is reinforced and concreted in wooden formwork. It rises 10–15 cm above ground level. This distance is required to compensate for internal stresses from winter heaving of the soil. When making a foundation with their own hands, some craftsmen decide not to fill the grillage and thereby deprive the structure of the necessary reliability.

Basic moments

At the preliminary stage, a layer of fertile soil is removed, although some craftsmen claim that this operation can be neglected. Next, the future foundation and drilling sites are marked, based on the distance between the supports being 1.5–2 m. The greater the expected load, the less this value should be. In case of a complex configuration, piles also need to be poured in places of key elements. A cast-off is constructed from thick boards (5 cm), and it is important to control the diagonals using a plumb line.

1. Creation of supports.

To obtain holes for piles using this technology, the TISE-F foundation drill is most often used, which has a sliding rod with marks, a soil storage tank and a folding plow controlled by a cord. The design is convenient for independent work. Typically, deepening is carried out to a freezing level of + 10–15 cm. The latter is necessary to create an expansion of up to 600 mm at the base, while ensuring that the bar and plow rotate and the storage tank stands in place. The complexity and duration of the process depends on the density of the soil; on average, one hole takes up to 90 minutes. In case of high soil moisture and sand, in order to avoid landslides, experts recommend immediately pouring the foundation piles.

An important technological stage is reinforcement. For this purpose, metal rods are used, 10–12 mm thick, 15–30 cm long longer than the depth. The excess is needed for bending and for the air gap of the grillage. They are tied with wire on top, and it is also rational to use reinforcing elements bent in the shape of a “P”. They must be free of rust, grease and other contaminants. They are placed strictly in the center of the hole.

To waterproof the TISE foundation, roofing felt is most often used. Its pieces are fastened into a cylinder and lowered into the well. After this, concrete is poured using technology. The solution is made moderately fluid to fill the well and not leave voids. Vibration compaction is also used for this purpose, otherwise, over time, the shortcomings of the foundation will appear. The pouring is carried out immediately, to the design mark; for this, at the preliminary stage, formwork is made or available material is used (for example, a pipe of the required diameter).

2. Making the tape.

Experts do not recommend making a large grillage; its width should correspond to the required wall thickness and increase if additional cladding is planned. To fill it, a formwork is constructed from wood, which is covered from the inside with polyethylene. Reinforcement is carried out by tying the protruding rods of the piles. The TISE foundation tape is made monolithic, that is, the solution is poured immediately over the entire structure.

It is important to get the top of the grillage perfectly flat (horizontal); this is controlled using a level or laser level. Vibrators are used for compaction, but when independent work It is necessary to monitor the reinforcement - its displacement is unacceptable. During the setting period (about a week), the foundation is covered with film. When carrying out work on a slope, the tape will be stepped or have a slight slope.

People's opinions

"Has gained country cottage area and decided to build a frame house. I wanted it to be inexpensive and high quality. I read a review on the Internet about TISE (foundation pouring technology) and chose it. I first used the drill when building a fence, it turned out well and relatively quickly. In the spring I started the main work, did everything according to the instructions, and finished the house in the summer while on vacation. I’m very pleased with the result.”

Sergey, Nizhny Novgorod.

“I decided to pour the foundation for the house myself, using TISE technology. I drilled holes for the piles with a special drill; the soil on the site was rocky, so the work did not proceed too quickly. No further problems arose; if there were any shortcomings, I did not find them. One pillar required about 30 kg of cement - the solution was mixed to medium consistency. The walls are brick, all the internal work and external insulation have already been completed, the rooms are quite comfortable.”

Dmitry Samoilov, Voronezh.

“Last year I started building a house using TISE technology: the reviews about it are positive and it’s affordable. I purchased a foundation drill, it is small, weighing less than 10 kg, and it is not difficult to handle it yourself. The foundation was poured within a month - I worked on weekends. The walls were erected with a friend, in my opinion everything turned out well. The first winter will show possible shortcomings.”

Kirill, St. Petersburg.

“The soil on my site is clayey, and from expert reviews it follows that it would be better to use construction using TISE technology. I did all the work with my own hands: I checked the verticality with a plumb line, I bought M 400 concrete and 12 mm reinforcement for the posts. For a house 7.5 x 4.5 m on two floors, 19 of them were made, an odd number due to the need to install additional supports for complex frame units. The foundation stood unloaded during the winter and remained unchanged in the spring. We’ve been living here for 3 years and no shortcomings have been identified yet.”

Ivan Belov, Moscow.

"Ordered construction country house Full construction. The soil on the site is peaty and experts recommended the use of TISE technology. According to calculations, it is about 2 times more efficient and economical than the traditional one. All work was carried out quickly and efficiently. The wells were drilled based on the freezing depth of + 10 cm, the grillage was raised by 15. In the corridor, in the floor, a hatch was made for access to the structure. We lived through the winter without incident.”

Nikita, Yekaterinburg.

Pros and cons, when to use effectively

The active use of foundations poured using TISE technology is due to a large number of its advantages:

• versatility;
• high resistance to frost heaving;
• relative cheapness, due to savings in materials and labor resources;
• high bearing capacity of the foundation;
• applicability in the reconstruction of buildings;
• cost-effectiveness (compared to classic tape) when pouring in areas with a slope;
• reliability of the design;
• durability of the foundation - concrete is not affected by aggressive soil components;
• simplicity of communications;
• good ventilation of the underground space.

For many, the positive factors of such construction are the low speed, as well as the fact that it is carried out without the use of expensive special equipment. According to reviews, the main disadvantage of the technology is that it requires a lot of effort on rocky soil. In this case, holes for the piles have to be dug manually. It is not recommended for waterlogged, silty and subsiding soils. Arranging a cellar under the entire building is also problematic. But it should be noted that the decisive factor is the quality of the work.

TISE construction is a universal foundation pouring technology with a wide range of applications. Due to its characteristics, it is suitable for soils different types(dense clayey, sandy, swelling in winter) with a seasonal freezing depth of up to 2 m and any groundwater level. It is effective on flat and hilly areas for the construction of wooden (logs, beams), brick, frame, block or monolithic buildings for residential, commercial and other purposes. The maximum permissible height is 3 floors. The design of the TISE foundation neutralizes the impact of vibrations on the house, therefore its use is recommended in areas with increased seismic activity, near busy highways and railways.

Price

When calculating the costs of building a turnkey TISE foundation, climatic conditions, soil characteristics and future construction are taken into account:

• number of storeys;
• location of load-bearing walls;
• places of nodal elements and others.

The construction organization carries out all the work on a turnkey basis (their cost for Moscow is shown in the table) or is involved at the stage of drilling and pouring the supports.

That is, the cost of building foundations using TISE technology in the Moscow region will be 3,700–4,400 rubles/linear meter. Basically, it depends on the size of the grillage. When doing the work yourself, you will only have to pay for materials and the purchase (rent) of a foundation drill, therefore, according to reviews from the owners, the overall price is significantly reduced.

The TISE foundation costs two to three times less than other options, and the low cost in no way affects its quality and safety.

Individual construction in the country is developing rapidly. Developers with good cash reserves build their own houses, caring only about their reliability - they care little about the cost of this enterprise.

Another thing is people with modest capabilities. They have to carefully calculate costs at each stage of construction. It is for this category of developers that TISE has developed a unique technology that allows them to build an inexpensive but reliable foundation for housing.

So, what is the foundation of TISE? This is a pile-tape structure consisting of reinforced concrete supports and a reinforced concrete grillage ().

The peculiarity of this design lies in the shape of the pile: in its lower part there is a hemispherical extension. This form of support helps to increase the bearing capacity of the foundation and prevents it from being squeezed out on heaving soils.

TISE piles bear the load of heavy stone and light frame houses equally well (), without shrinking.

The purpose of the grillage is to connect all the supports into a single structure. It does not contact the ground, evenly distributing the load from the house between the piles.

Advantages and disadvantages

The advantages of the TISE type foundation include:

• low cost;
• no need to use heavy construction equipment;
• autonomy of work during construction: to perform technological operations no connection required;
• high speed of construction and minimal labor costs;
• the possibility of independent construction by individual developers who do not have experience or special skills;
• ease of eyeliner engineering communications even on a fully constructed facility.

Disadvantages of TISE foundation technology:

• this construction method cannot be used in swampy areas, waterlogged and silty soils;
• using only manual labor: this makes the construction process very difficult on rocky and hard soils. True, they have now begun to produce TISE drills with a mechanical drive powered by a light gasoline engine;
• it is not possible to build a basement under the entire house;
• a blind area of ​​increased width is required.

The above disadvantages of the TISE foundation are offset by advantages, so this technology can be considered the most economical and progressive for private construction.

The main and only working tool that you will need when building a foundation using TISE technology with your own hands is the TISE-F drill.

Structurally, it is made in the form of a sliding rod, equipped with two handles and cutting edges. Its weight is only 7.5 kg. The tool is equipped with cutters and a locking mechanism. The plow is lifted by means of a cord, one of the ends of which is attached to the crossbar.

The rod can be extended to any length using a threaded lock. It also transmits torque.

The plow is mounted on a movable bracket between the drill and the rod. It is released at the drilling level where the expansion of the TIS pile is planned. The role of a soil accumulator is played by the drill body.

Drilling technology

Drilling using TISE foundation technology consists of several simple operations:

1. The piles are being marked.
2. At the drilling sites, the turf is removed.
3. A hole is dug exactly in the center of the future pile with a diameter equal to the diameter of the drill and a depth of 0.15 m. This operation can be performed using a shovel or a special device included with the drill.
4. The plow is removed from the bar, and a handle is installed on its upper part.
5. The initial length of the rod is set (for this there are three holes in its body).
6. The kit also includes an extension cord. If it needs to be used, it is mounted on a bar instead of a handle. The latter is transferred to the end of the extension cord.
7. During the drilling process, the soil is collected in a container. As it fills, the storage tank is lifted and released from the ground.

Piles using TISE technology have a small diameter, so it is necessary to carefully control the verticality of the well: concrete does not bend well, and if it deviates from normal, it may burst during operation.

After reaching the design mark, the well is expanded in its lower part.

This is done like this:

• two bolts on the container are unscrewed;
• The plow is installed and secured: first read the instructions for the drill. There you will see that there are three installation positions for this part - depending on the size of the extension (400, 500, 600 mm);
• a cord is attached to the bracket (crossbar), by means of which the plow is raised to the transport position;
• after the plow is lowered into the hole, the cord is released - the tool takes its working position;
• the drill is rotated counterclockwise, cutting out a hemisphere in the ground.

It is more convenient to build TISE piles with a partner.

Foundation calculation

Before you start practical work, you need to find out: how many supports can withstand the load from your building.

Foundation calculations using TISE technology are performed according to the classical scheme:

• the total load from the building is calculated (it is the sum of the weight of all building materials, wind and snow loads);
• The bearing capacity of one bored pile is determined: it is better to entrust this part of the calculation to specialists, for example, from the architectural department of the city administration. They will ask you cadastral number your site, the register will clarify the data of geological research in this area - and, using just one formula, they will quickly make a calculation;
• divide the load by the load-bearing capacity of the pile - and you will determine their number.

Now all you have to do is place the supports on the foundation plan. Placement of piles should begin from the corners of the building and the intersections of walls. Distribute the remaining supports evenly around the entire perimeter of the foundation. After that, all you have to do is take the markings to the area.

Pouring piles

To fill the supports, concrete grade M300 () is used. Crushed stone fraction – no more than 25 mm.

Along the axes of the well, install four reinforcing bars A-4 with a diameter of 14 mm. Their length should exceed the depth of the hole by 15-20 cm. After this, pour concrete into the well, periodically compacting it with an internal vibrator. If you don't have such equipment, use a long stick. The purpose of the operation is to eliminate the possibility of voids forming in the concrete mass.

Immediately after pouring, the pile head is concreted. Can be used as plastic pipe large diameter.

Rules for grillage construction

When building a foundation using TISE technology, you should not make the grillage too high. A massive monolith will become an additional burden on the piles and on the developer’s wallet.

A technically unjustified increase in the consumption of expensive concrete will negate the main advantage of the TISE pile-grillage foundation - low cost. The width of the reinforced concrete belt must correspond to the thickness of the wall. If in the future you plan to cover the house with bricks, take this into account when determining the width of the grillage.

Before installing the formwork, make a cast-off - use cords to mark all the axes of the future structure (). This must be done because when drilling and pouring pile supports, their exact axial location is difficult to maintain. But the grillage must be made in compliance with the perpendicularity and parallelism of all its sides. Otherwise, the walls of the house will rise at random.

The grillage is reinforced at the bottom. The reinforcing mesh must be connected to the rods released from the pile heads. The pouring should be done at one time - there should be no seams in the reinforced concrete body.

Video about the foundation of TISE.

Important disclaimer:
All the material described is just my experience. This is not a rule “how to do it”, but only “what I decided to do”. But personally, I like to learn from other people’s experiences and mistakes, because you can’t avoid your own, which is why I decided to write such a report. Now let's get to the point.

TISE pile foundation. Step 1. Marking the pile foundation

Before as mark the foundation, I designed and drew it in Archicad (Archicad 16).
Here's a video that shows how to do it (in just 3 minutes):

If you don’t want to do it yourself, you can always buy a ready-made one from us or order an individual one.

Like me marked the pile foundation TISE in practice.
I put these cast-offs and pulled the threads (the outermost ones along the edges of the future outermost piles, not the outermost ones - along the centers of the future inner piles):

First I pulled 1 thread parallel to the fence 3 meters away. The second one was stretched according to the Pythagorean theorem using the 3-4-5 triangle. I first measured 4 meters along the already stretched thread, marked 3 meters of a new thread (running perpendicular to the first) and changed the position of the second until there were exactly 5 meters between these points.

Then the threads are 90 degrees to each other. So I pulled all the threads. We spent about 6 hours on this without experience, together. The next time I had to deal with similar markup, everything was much simpler.

By the way, I did HUGE mistake in the marking of this columnar foundation. It was necessary to pull the threads straight into a level, this would then save me from many hours of jumping with the rule and level to level the height of all the piles, and would also allow me to place the piles much more evenly than they are in the end. Well, when I build the next frame house with my own hands, I’ll take it into account!

The main thing is that after stretching, measure not only the diagonals, but also all sides the resulting quadrilateral, because An isosceles trapezoid can also have even diagonals.

Final markup results Not yet, I’ll tell you for sure later on the diagonals. At the time “before drilling” the diagonals of the house and its sides converged to each other up to mm (at a diagonal length of 14 meters). When you drill holes, it is very difficult to do everything exactly down to mm, so there will obviously be an error. On this moment All 35 holes have been drilled, 8 piles have been poured, 27 remain. Then I will take all the measurements again.

You can watch a video about my pile field. The pitch of the TISE foundation piles is 1.8 meters along the length of the house and 2.3 meters along the gables. Per 100 sq.m. it turned out to be 35 piles.

TISE pile foundation. Step 2. We drill holes for the piles.

After marking the territory I took TISE drill with a diameter of 250 mm from a neighbor (but without widening, just a drill). They used it to drill all the holes, with some exceptions. As you understand, without a drill there will be no TISE and TISE foundation.

Before drilling, I found an overhang center of the future pile(or the edge - at the perimeter of the piles), and then using a galvanized pipe with a diameter of 250 mm, marked the location of the future pile. How exactly is shown in the video:

To drill 35 holes 1.6 meters deep and make them underneath TISE-expansion, I spent 9 days of 4 hours each, between which there were also 4 days of rest (i.e. in total I spent 13 days):

1 day - 14 holes were drilled by hand at 0.5 meters and 21 holes at 0.2 meters (a kind of marking, but in depth);
Day 2 - the remaining 21 holes were drilled by hand up to 0.5 meters;
Day 3 - 11 holes were manually drilled up to 1.6 meters and 8 widenings were made;
Day 4 - a motor drill was rented for two operators and 24 holes were drilled up to 1.1 meters;
Day 5 - 10 holes were manually drilled to 1.6 meters and 2 widenings were made;
Day 6 - 5 more widenings were made, the drill was broken;
Day 7 - the drill was repaired;
Day 8 - 7 more widenings were made;
Day 9 - the remaining 6 widenings are done (yay).

Photos from this stage:
I drill the hole, after each release of soil I apply level on 2 sides to the drill:

I do widening of TISE pile:

But this widening was done with this homemade 3-meter drill:

Errors during the TISE drilling stage:
1. Now I would not make a 250 mm TISE foundation, but would make it 200 mm; there is enough strength for a 1-2-story frame house, but 20% less work and material would be needed. Plus, most importantly, at 200 mm you can take a motorized drill for one operator, which would make drilling easier and more accurate. But some people like to play it safe. Believe me, frame house Excessive reinsurance is simply not necessary, it is an extra waste of effort and money.

2. Take the motor drill wasn't worth it. He does everything very inaccurately; it would be better if he did everything with a hand drill. I had to correct a lot and redo it anyway. But this applies to a motor drill for two operators; for one, they say, it’s much better. But at 250 mm it is rarely possible to connect a 250 mm auger, so again we return to mistake number one with the size of the piles.
3. It was necessary close immediately drilled holes. After a couple of rains, 30-40 cm of sand went back into the holes. It is also better to immediately take the sand somewhere away from the holes, and not leave it next to the piles, as I did. But not too far, because then you will need to sprinkle the piles (if they are high above the ground).

I still left the drilled holes for quite a long time due to injury, if left for a few days, such a problem will not arise.

TISE pile foundation. Step 3. Fill the piles.

It’s very scary to work with concrete for the first time; it’s not clear whether the mixture is correct or whether it will hold. But TISE foundation much more reliable than a screw foundation and, in fact, almost eternal. And this topic remains open to this day (until the house has stood for 20 years, I won’t be sure that everything is OK).

First day. Spent 3 hours on org. preparation. Then in 4 hours I poured the first pile. The test pile turned out to be very long, and besides, I made it from sand, cement and water, which, as it turned out, was very difficult.

Second day. I prepared better, bought OPGS and S-3 plasticizer. That's when things took off. The concrete turned out thick, without excess water, like on the first day. In just 7 hours I poured 4 piles, it took 12 batches of 90 liters each.

In total, it took about 10 days, so my wife and I (sometimes my father helped) we poured 3-4 piles a day.

Proportions for my concrete(in buckets): 1 cement, 1 sand, 4 OPGS and 0.5 water + 150 grams of C-3 in a 36% solution (i.e. hot water 300 ml + 150 grams of C-3). The water-cement ratio is 1/2. After 8 piles were poured, I ordered more OPGS and removed the sand from the proportion, I just did 1-4-0.5.

How do I poured the piles(step by step report):
— pour the first portion of concrete to close the widening
— I insert a cylinder of roofing felt, not fastened together in any way, and smooth it along the walls of the pile (they turned out to be a little wider than 250 mm and it’s even more convenient, because the 250 mm galvanized pipe then stands up well). I secure the cylinder with 60-70 mm nails to the walls of the pile. so that the cylinder does not fall apart.
— I make a batch and pour the concrete into the pile again. Now I insert 3 reinforcement bars so that they come out to the height of the future pile. In general, it’s possible later, but my concrete set in half an hour, and then inserting the reinforcement was problematic.
— after each new layer of concrete, I make sure to vibrate it for 10-15 seconds to the height of the new layer + 10 cm of the old one.
— I dump the concrete to the zero level of the ground, vibrate, and install the pipe. I mark how long it should stick out above the ground with a tape measure, and bury it inside the roofing material to the remaining height (more is better, because then you don’t want to saw a pipe with concrete, and it’s always easier to install a pipe with plywood).
— I level the pipe, sprinkle it on the sides so that it does not leave the level (it will still leave, but less).
— I pour concrete into it, vibrate it, control that the reinforcement does not move out of its place, control the level of the pile and its height above the ground (it may go down).
- when the pipe is completely filled to the top with concrete, I vibrate and insert an M10 pin into it at 75 cm (25 cm above the pile, the pin is a meter long). a nut is screwed onto the lower part of the stud about 5 cm from the bottom, then 2 washers and again another nut (so that the stud does not get pulled out of the concrete by the grillage). I set the pin level and use a tape measure to check the distance from the edges of the pile (should be approximately 12.5 cm).
— I look at the level of the pile. I sprinkle it with sand to a depth of 20-30 cm so that it doesn’t shake in the wind until it hardens.
— I cover the stud and the pile with a plastic bag. I sprinkle sand on top and pour water on top.

Total: About 25 days(with rest and taking into account the injury, all 35).

Caring for the TISE pile foundation

After the piles were filled, I threw them on top sand(once it dries, you can replace the sand with sawdust), watered it from above, and then put it on top plastic bag and tied it on a pile. Every day I took off the package and watered from above sand from a watering can or hose.

Here are the photos (done incorrectly, I first covered it with a bag and then poured sand, and not vice versa):

Here you can also see the studs in the pile.

Here is the final photo of the piles after a month of exposure:

The evenness of the piles can then be adjusted by making additional a layer of concrete or waterproof plywood of varying thickness.

Errors stage of pouring TISE foundation piles:
1. I decided to mix concrete without crushed stone, nothing got in the way, everything stuck together, a lot of cement was wasted, as well as water (which reduced the grade of concrete). The result was sand concrete, but not everyone considers it suitable for a foundation.
2. I forgot to put plasticizer in the concrete on the first pile, the problem arose again with water.
3. In the first pile, the reinforcement was placed inaccurately; it stuck to the side
4. Galvanized pipes are cool, but installing them in roofing felt is very inconvenient if the roofing felt cylinder is the same size. you need to make the hole and cylinder a little wider (a couple of cm) than the pipe.

Costs for a do-it-yourself TISE columnar foundation

Here's mine cost estimate for TISE(house 100 sq.m.):
— Galvanized ventilation pipes with a diameter of 250 mm, 40 pcs. (cut to the required size from 50 to 100 cm, since there is a slope on the site) = 7800 rub.
— Reinforcement 40 bars of reinforcement 11.7 meters each, each cut into 6 pieces of 1.95 meters = 6,700 rubles.
— Cement 2 tons = 10,000 rubles.
— Plasticizer S-3 15 kg. = 1000 rubles
— Studs and nuts with washers for piles — 2200 rubles
— Ruberoid 10 pieces — 3000 rubles
— OPGS 15 tons — 14,000 rubles (can be replaced with 5 tons of crushed stone, it will be cheaper)
— Deep vibrator = 2500
— Concrete mixer — (they were given just like that for the first time, then I had to rent it, otherwise add 250 rubles per day or 7-10 thousand rubles for the purchase - prices for 2015, now they are probably more expensive).
Total: 48 thousand rubles + concrete mixer. To summarize, 50 thousand + your own work. With a hired force of about 100 thousand.

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In this article I will talk about how, why and by what means I calculated the foundation for my house. I don’t want to convince anyone that my approach and my conclusions are correct. Everything that I counted was intended only to convince myself =) But, in the process of calculations, learning some subtleties, observing the monolithic construction of a 9-story building in a neighboring yard and private construction on the outskirts of my city, re-reading hundreds of pages of websites, reference books, books, I gained confidence in what I do and how I do it.

The starting point for starting calculations, after I had decided that this would be the foundation for TISE technology, was, of course, the book by the author of this technology, R.N. Yakovlev. After reading it several times, I suddenly realized that the numbers given in the book were given with a multiple reserve, and I decided to go my own way. But first things first.

My first thought after I made the decision to build a house was the desire for minimal earth and reinforced concrete works Location on. It so happened that I found myself among close friends who also turned out to be like-minded people and supporters of the idea of ​​house building. We bought a large piece of land that no one needed, 30 km from the city, where there are no communications except a relatively normal road, and set about developing it. Of course, money is a thorny issue for any of us, and we had to weigh all our actions hundreds of steps ahead. Saving according to the principle of “saving on everything” often simply leads to redoing all the work anew, which is why the principle of “smart saving” was chosen. The foundation is the starting point; it is a structure whose design is influenced by the choice of all subsequent technologies. What kind of walls will it be, what will be on the roof, what kind of heating will there be, what type of flooring will be installed, will there be a fireplace and much, much more - this all affects the foundation, its geometry, load distribution, type, and, ultimately, the price .

I chose the foundation based on the principle of minimal intervention in the soil, construction speed and price, and the first thing I chose was screw piles and a 200x200mm wooden frame. Having familiarized myself with the theory and reviews in detail, I began to make calculations specifically for my house project. By the way, it is necessary to mention the house project. The house was designed creative young architects practically without taking into account my wishes =). It turned out to be completely different from the house that I pictured in my imagination, well, not at all! However, I liked him at first sight! It seemed to me unusual and not geometrically simple, although quite elegant. Anyway, here are the pictures...

Mention of the project is necessary so that you can imagine the construction area. Most websites of companies that offered screw piles at that time indicated approximate prices for ready foundation. The prices were very tasty, something like: " screw foundation for a house of 196 sq.m. - from $2,400." Of course, when it came to calculations, it quickly became clear that piles were needed not only at the corners of the house, but the whole pile field! And the problem was not so much in the load-bearing capacity screw pile, how many are the distances between them - in general, about 100 piles were needed for my project! The price of one, as it turned out in correspondence with the company, is about $100 with installation work. And now the foundation costs me $10,000 + 6 cubic meters of timber another $1000!!! (prices 2012) There is no talk of any savings with such a price tag - I had to look for an alternative...

It didn’t take long to find an alternative - TISE. This technology was not very attractive - you need to drill the ground with something manually, mix concrete, some kind of reinforcement that also needs to be bent - all this was very alien to me, a printer by profession. But the eyes are afraid, but the hands do. Having chosen TISE pillars for support, I thought for a long time about what kind of grillage to make (above-ground piping of pillars), there were two options: a wooden beam or a concrete strip). Having read the forums, I identified the main disadvantages of timber: 1 - the beam is wooden and it lives its own life, spins, bends; 2 - on long spans it plays and bends; 3 - the lower crowns of timber houses are always a weak point, they can rot, become damp, they are eaten by all kinds of living creatures (of course, this is just someone’s bad experience, there are also good examples); 4 - timber, with the described disadvantages, is also more than twice as expensive as concrete (a cube of concrete M400 - $78, a cube of timber 200x200 - $180). A concrete grillage was chosen. Calculations have begun.

Having bought a TISE drill for $90, we drilled several wells in our field, took soil samples, crushed it with our hands, shook it in a jar of water and determined that in different places of our field the soil was very different from pure coarse sand to loam with a clay content of up to 30 %. During the drilling process, they also concluded that the soil was porous - it was very, very dense. Sand, of course, was easy to drill, but with sulinkas it was more difficult, but, in general, 20 minutes for a well 150 cm deep. Next we investigated the question of. This is, first of all, theoretical information from the Internet and, secondly, there were friends who found out this issue in the competent meteorological authority - for our region the maximum freezing depth is 50 cm, but in practice the soil has not frozen deeper than 30 cm for many years. Now the next step is the drilled wells, and this is where they came in handy. Leaving them for autumn, winter, and spring, we observed the water in them (there is a photo). Observation showed that when the high water leaves, groundwater lie at depths of over 2 meters. Before starting construction, we drilled two water wells using hydraulic drilling to a depth of 35 meters - this is an interesting sight that provides valuable information about the deep composition of the soil. As a conclusion, under a small 2-4 meter layer of loam lies a wide layer of dense waterproof clay. The density and waterproofness of our soils was also indicated by the spring puddles in the areas - they were not absorbed into the soil at all and did not go away for several weeks (even the sedge sprouted) until we dug drainage channels. So, I had all the necessary data to determine the bearing capacity of the soil. The site has a slight slope of 60 cm under the building site, so I chose the depth of the piles so that at the bottom point of the site the expansion of the tise pile is completely below the freezing depth, because loams are heaving soils. So, the height difference is 60cm + freezing depth 50cm + the height of the expansion itself is 25cm + a small margin for good measure = 150cm. Plus mandatory drainage of the site! From Yakovlev’s book () he determined the bearing capacity of the soil in the range of 3.5-4 kg/cm2.

Determining the number of piles

This process is more creative than calculated, because it is necessary to find a balance between the number of piles and the distance between the piles. First, you need to find a starting point - the minimum allowable number of these piles. To do this, you need to find out the total load from the house + snow, dynamic, wind, household loads. We start with the roof, then the walls, loads, etc.:

As a result of calculations, we see that my lightweight frame-panel foam house weighs no less than 302 tons! Moreover greatest contribution This weight comes from a roof with snow, warm floors and unexpected guests. Given this state of affairs, I chose the minimum diameter of the expansion of the chise column, which, according to measurement with a ruler, turned out to be 45 cm (the instructions stated 40 cm) and received the area of ​​one support S=Pi*R^2=1590 cm.sq. Having considered it necessary total area Using the formula from Yakovlev’s book (it’s in the article) and dividing it by the area of ​​one pillar, we get the required minimum of 60 pillars. This is the first starting point.

For clarity, I made a simple flash calculator that calculates everything that can be counted in the area of ​​pillars. You just need to calculate the total weight of the house in advance and find out the bearing capacity of the soil. And then you can select the required number of pillars and the expansion diameter. The grade strength of concrete is immediately calculated - this is the minimum possible strength, taking into account only axial compression (without taking into account torsion, bending, eccentric compression and other deformations). Buoyancy calculation frost heaving produced without taking into account the weight of the house itself (as if we were mothballing the bare foundation for the winter). Under normal conditions, part of this force (or all) is compensated by the load from the weight of the house.