Do-it-yourself foundation project for a private house. Do-it-yourself foundation: step-by-step instructions for building a foundation yourself

The importance of the foundation for any building is difficult to overestimate, because a reliable foundation of a building is the primary condition for its long-term trouble-free operation. You can build any, no matter how strong and beautiful walls, a well-designed and installed roofing system, reliable floors, and carry out expensive finishing. But all this can “go to waste” if errors were made when calculating the foundation, and during its construction, negligence was shown, unacceptable simplifications were made, low-quality materials were used, and the established technology was violated.

So, the foundation is a key stage of any construction, which sometimes takes up to a third of the total budget. In an effort to save some money, some potential homeowners are seriously thinking about the problem: is it possible to build a foundation with their own hands? The answer to this question, unfortunately, is not obvious. It's one thing to create a foundation for a small country house, a garage or outbuilding, and something completely different - for a full-fledged country mansion, which has several levels, and even with adjacent extensions.

This article will discuss the main types of foundations, but the main emphasis will be on its strip variety. We hope that after reading the article, many visitors to the site will become more clear whether they should undertake the construction of the foundation themselves, or whether it would be better to use the services of specialists.

Main types of foundations

Varieties used in individual construction There are quite a lot of foundations, but basically four basic schemes are used, as well as their various combinations. And the main types include strip, columnar, slab and pile foundations.

Strip foundations

This is the most commonly used scheme, as it is suitable for almost all construction conditions, with the exception, perhaps, of regions with close permafrost or for buildings built literally “on the water.”

Despite a certain difference in the technologies for constructing strip foundations various types, they all have a common feature - this is a continuous, closed strip-base along the entire perimeter of the house being built and under the internal load-bearing structures. The tape itself is buried in the ground to the required calculated value, and protrudes from above with its base part. The width of the tape is maintained the same throughout the entire foundation - this parameter should also be based on the calculations performed.

Specify the requested values ​​and click "Calculate the minimum number of rods"

Estimated height of the tape (including depth and base), meters

Estimated tape thickness, meters

Reinforcing bar diameter

If you get 3 rods, then usually their number is increased to four to achieve the design as shown in the figure above. With another odd number, this unpaired rod can be used additionally in one of the tiers, mainly in the lower one.

The rods are connected into a common structure by tying with wire. Welding of a reinforcement frame can only be carried out under certain conditions, using special types of reinforcement, and only by highly qualified welders, so you cannot resort to this method in conditions of independent construction - you can ruin all the work done.

The reinforcement bars in one row are joined with a mandatory overlap of 50d, that is, for the most common diameters of 10 or 12 mm, this value ranges from 500 to 600 m. This must be taken into account when calculating the required amount of material.

Special attention is given to corners and abutment areas. No cross connections are allowed - there are special methods for linking these nodes. They are clearly shown in the illustrations below.

In order to fully perform their functions and, in addition, to avoid corrosion, the rods must be located at a distance of at least 50 mm from the outer walls of the concrete strip. This is achieved by installing supports from below, as well as special calibration inserts placed on the longitudinal rods - they rest against the walls of the formwork and hold the reinforcement at the required distance from them.

Now let’s talk about how much reinforcement you will need. It would seem that everything is simple, the length of the foundation strip is known, and the number of rods in the cross-section is also known. But we must not forget about overlaps. Obviously, the more there are, the more significant the material consumption will become. The standard length of reinforcement 10÷16 mm is 11.7 meters. But it is not always possible to organize the delivery of such “long lengths” and you have to resort to cutting the rods in half - and this again increases the number of overlaps. So you will have to decide what is more profitable - order special transport or be satisfied with the increase in costs.

To make it easier to navigate, use the calculators below:

Reinforcement consumption calculators

The strip foundation has a lot of advantages, its technology has been proven for a long time, setting up a strip foundation is not a difficult task, the main thing is to follow all stages of the technology. This is the only option that allows you to include a full underground/ground floor in the project.

According to the SNiP standards of 1987, numbered, strip foundations are classified according to the following criteria:

• design - prefabricated from factory reinforced concrete FBS blocks on FL slabs; monolithic (pouring in place into formwork), laying the strip with brick or rubble stone;
• laying depth - shallow strip foundation (MZLF - 0.4 - 0.7 m), deep (below the freezing mark in the region).

In individual construction of low-rise buildings, a monolithic type of this foundation is usually used.

Step-by-step instructions for installing a strip foundation

To ensure the maximum service life of the structure, it is not enough to pour the strip foundation into the formwork. It is necessary to rest it on non-heaving soil, remove moisture, and compensate for the forces of frost heaving. For this purpose, a cushion, drainage, hydro and thermal insulation are made, respectively. In order to do all operations correctly, you must follow the technology below:

Preparation

Soil samples before construction

In order for the strip foundation to last for a long time, it is necessary to order surveys from a specialized company. This will reveal the possibility of strata movement, soil composition and the depth of groundwater. Only in this case can the foundation of the house be done correctly. Survey data is necessary to calculate the cross-section of the reinforcement, the number of chords and the cross-section of the tape.

Marking

At this stage, it is necessary to remove the fertile layer from the entire building area (usually 0.4 - 0.6 m), and mark:

• cords on pegs along each wall;
• scheme with lime mortar on the ground.

Marking trenches for strip foundations.

The stakes are mounted slightly further than the axes of the walls so that the cords do not sag when removing soil with a shovel. In projects of rectangular and square cottages, the diagonals must coincide, within 2 cm. If there are pilasters, porches or verandas, the geometry of each architectural element is additionally controlled.

For heavy equipment (pumps, emergency generators), heating devices (boilers, stoves weighing more than 0.4 tons), independent foundations not connected to the tape are marked. The distance between reinforced concrete structures should be more than 10 cm; after pouring concrete, it is covered with non-combustible material (crushed stone or sand).

Excavation

Depending on the depth of the tape, different heaving forces act on it:

• tangents - they try to move the structure sideways or push it tangentially upward;
• pushing out - only for MZLF that does not reach layers that do not swell in winter.

Therefore, in addition to the sand cushion under the sole of the tape, it is necessary to provide the side backfill of the foundation with non-metallic material (sand, crushed stone, ASG mixture).

Digging a trench for a strip foundation. In the future, the fertile soil layer inside the foundation must be removed.

To compensate for heaving forces and create normal operating conditions for the underground floor, the walls of which in 60% of cases are strip foundations, the outer surface of the concrete structure is insulated with XPS polystyrene foam sheets over a waterproofing layer. The layer of heat insulation is continued in a horizontal plane along the bottom of the trench for 0.6 - 0.8 m, spreading sheets of the same material.

To do hydro-thermal insulation correctly, builders need access to these surfaces located below ground level. This requires increasing the width of each trench around the perimeter of the house by 0.8 - 1 m. Device strip foundation Doing it yourself will require four times as much time as using special equipment. For a shallow MZLF belt, work can be done manually; for depths below the freezing mark, it is better to use an excavator.

At the last stage, it is necessary to level the bottom of all trenches to the same level. However, excavation It doesn’t end there, since the tape needs to be protected from moisture in one more way.

Drainage

Most polystyrene foam manufacturers have technological maps for insulated MZLF and deep-lying tapes. They contain step-by-step instruction for drainage arrangement:

• along the outer perimeter of the trench expanded at the previous stage, a depression is created 30 cm below the bottom of the tape;
• a general slope of the system is created in one direction (3 - 4 degrees for gravity movement of wastewater);
• at the collection site, a sealed container with a neck extending to the surface is buried in the ground;
• the bottom of the recess is filled with crushed stone; if the soil is silty, it is necessary to lay geotextiles (a margin of 30 cm on each side for subsequent wrapping of the pipe), compacting the cushion with a vibrator or tamper is necessary;
• Drainage pipes (smooth or corrugated, with slotted or round perforations) are laid on the cushion, they are run into the wells, leaving free space into which, if clogged, a hose can be lowered to purge the system with high pressure;
• inspection wells made of corrugated or smooth pipes with plugs on top are installed in the corners;
• the mini-trench is filled with crushed stone to the level of the bottom of the trench.

To make drains correctly, all the above conditions must be met. This will allow you to keep the reinforced concrete structures of the house buried in the ground dry. The drains should be located under the planned blind area so that the runoff from it does not flow into the drainage, but into the surface storm drain, which will relieve the reservoir from overflowing.

It is worth noting that drainage is not always provided for; if you are in doubt about whether or not to do underground drainage, then only soil geology can tell for sure which is worth ordering.

Sand substrate

To make a proper foundation pad, it is necessary to compact 15–20 cm of sand and the same amount of crushed stone in layers. Only in combination with drainage and insulation of the tape, the structure will ensure a century-long life of the house without destruction. At the time of compaction, the non-metallic material must be wetted for better shrinkage.

• crushed stone and sand have drainage properties, that is, water can only seep through them downwards;
• There is no capillary rise from lower levels in these materials.

In the event of a sudden increase in groundwater level, roofing material will not protect concrete, since it is not associated with the lateral waterproofing of the structure. Moisture from the concrete does not go down during vibratory ramming, the cement laitance rises to the top, and large fractions go down. Therefore, it is better to make normal hydro- and thermal insulation of the base of the house after stripping the structure.

Formwork

The formwork must be securely fastened with braces and tied with wire through holes drilled in the panels.

Step-by-step instructions for installing classic removable formwork are as follows:

• manufacturing - panels are made from plywood, edged boards, chipboard or OSB (height from the bottom of the trench to the ground level + 40 - 50 cm of the base);
• installation - the boards are fastened with jumpers for a stable geometry when expanded from the inside with concrete, they are fixed from the outside with inclined bars resting on pegs;
• holes - in the base part, pipes of a suitable diameter for ventilation ducts are passed through the shields; similar sleeves are installed underground for input engineering systems(if floors are planned on the ground, ventilation ducts are not needed);
• processing - to facilitate stripping and improve the quality of the side surfaces of the concrete strip, the inside of the boards is sheathed with roofing felt or PVC film.

It is not recommended to pour concrete along the upper edge of the formwork; it is better that the level is 2–5 cm below it. This will prevent splashing during vibration compaction of the mixture and will allow the surface to be better leveled. Marking the horizon with a marker or cord on the inner surface of the boards will allow you to control the filling of the form with concrete.

Don’t forget to put plastic inserts into the formwork for ventilation and communications.

The technology of permanent formwork is somewhat different from the previous version:

• instead of lumber, polystyrene blocks are used (assembly is similar to the construction set);
• there are no external supports, plastic ties are mounted from the inside;
• Thanks to the corrugated surface of polystyrene and internal ties, the insulation reliably adheres to the concrete.

Fixed formwork is always narrower than classic formwork, which makes it difficult to place an in-depth vibrator. When pouring MZLF, the formwork is filled with concrete at a time. If the depth of the foundation is below the freezing mark, 40–60 cm of formwork in height is assembled, concrete is poured, and compacted. Then the formwork is increased to the same height, and the operations are repeated.

Reinforcement

To make an armored belt for the base of a house without errors, it is necessary to make a calculation (section, number of longitudinal bars, jumper spacing), and take into account the nuances:

• rods are prohibited from joining in corners, T-junctions, one rod is bent at a right angle (50 reinforcement diameters minimum), the second is attached to it on a straight section of the adjacent wall;
• It is not recommended that the diameter of longitudinal bars of periodic cross-section (corrugated) be less than 12 mm, distribution clamps or jumpers less than 6 mm (smooth reinforcement);
• 4–6 pieces of longitudinal rods are usually laid. in each frame (2-3 below, 2-3 above);
• in junctions and corners, the spacing of the jumpers is reduced threefold (20 cm instead of 60 cm);
• overlap is recommended 40 - 60 cm with double ligation with wire.

Scheme of reinforcing the corners of a strip foundation with U-shaped clamps.

Knowing the volume of formwork for ordering concrete, you can roughly estimate the consumption of reinforcement - 80 kg per cubic meter of mortar. It is prohibited to touch the armored belt to the formwork panels, from metal elements there should be at least 2 cm to them, 5 cm is better.

When using clamps (a closed element bent from a rod that follows the shape of the formwork), the installation productivity of the armored belt increases.

Fill

The basic rules for professional pouring of a strip base are:

• filling the formwork in one day with breaks within 1 - 2 hours (the beginning of setting depending on the weather);
• moving the mixer around the perimeter, rather than dispersing liquid concrete from one place over all walls (the mixture loses its properties);
• the horizontal of the upper plane of the tape is below the sides of the formwork panels, and do not interfere with them;
• it is prohibited to throw the solution from a height (maximum 2 m from the bottom of the trench);
• It is necessary to compact the concrete mixture with a vibrator.

To fill the formwork efficiently, it is necessary to move the mixer several times around the building spot to fill the height of 60 cm. Then go through all areas with a deep vibrator, repeat the operations until the design mark is reached. The norm for a vibrating tool is a compaction depth equal to 1.25 times the length of the tip.

Curing

To avoid wasting the construction budget at the foundation pit stage, the developer must know how long the concrete sits in the formwork and how to care for it. The main troubles that can happen with a reinforced concrete structure are:

• damage – chemical or mechanical;
• drying until completely hydrated - brittle structure, broken internal connections, possibly in the heat;
• cracking from temperature changes - important in late summer and autumn;
• shells on the surface - shrinkage due to the lack of plasticizers.

After pouring, the foundation is watered for a week and covered with film on top to prevent moisture evaporation.

Until the concrete has reached 2/3 of its design strength (can be identified by its grade), it cannot be stripped and must be protected from the specified influences. To do this, the building spot or the perimeter of the base is covered with PVC film, burlap or tarpaulin, and after 8 hours watering begins. The tape covered with loose materials retains moisture longer; it is recommended to sprinkle it with sand, sawdust, cover it with burlap and moisten these materials.

Stripping

When using permanent formwork technology, this structural element remains on the tape. In other cases, the panels are removed at 70% of the design strength of the concrete, which is a week in the summer. It is better to carry out the work together, holding the removed formwork elements in a canopy.

A home craftsman, when building a strip foundation with his own hands, will avoid serious mistakes when following these recommendations and save money. The foundation is too important an element of the building to risk its integrity and resource.

The strip foundation has proven itself to be a reliable and durable foundation for any type of building. Due to its versatility and relatively low price, this type of foundation is widely used in the construction industry. Having basic knowledge in construction in the arsenal, a set the necessary tool, technical means and a great desire, you can easily turn into reality the idea of ​​​​building a strip foundation with your own hands. You will learn how to pour a strip foundation with your own hands without experience and organize the work correctly from our step-by-step instructions.

Before you begin preparatory work, you should decide for yourself what type of strip foundation you prefer to see as the basis of your future building. There are two types of strip foundations:

• Shallow;
• Recessed.

The first type of strip foundation is suitable for those who want to save their time and financial resources. The construction of a shallow foundation does not require deep trenches. It is an excellent solution for the construction of small buildings. Experts recommend giving preference to a shallow strip foundation when building structures such as:

• Wooden houses;
• One or two-story buildings made of foam concrete or aerated concrete blocks;
• Frame buildings Canadian technology construction;
• Monolithic structures with permanent formwork;
• Small stone buildings.

The depth of this type of foundation does not exceed 50 cm.

A recessed strip foundation is suitable for buildings with heavy walls, a concrete roof and an underground garage or basement. When choosing this type of foundation, it is necessary to correctly calculate its depth. To do this, it is enough to determine the level of soil freezing and subtract 30 cm from this value.

Preparatory work

At this stage, it is necessary to draw up a detailed plan for subsequent work, establish all Construction Materials to the site and place them near the work site. You should also carry out calculations of the required materials, as well as dimensions. In this case, specialized online calculators will come to your aid.

Marking

Probably the most important stage in the construction of any type of foundation is marking land plot. Before starting it, it is necessary to clear the entire surface in the area of ​​the future foundation from debris and cut off the top layer of soil to a depth of 15-20 cm, which will help to avoid biological processes of decomposition of organic matter. After arranging the construction site, you can proceed directly to marking. For this:

1. A peg, which can be a piece of reinforcement, marks the location of the first corner;
2. From it, using a vertical and plumb line, mark the position of the second and third corners;
3. A string is also pulled from the second and third corners and the fourth corner is determined;
4. Having measured the diagonals and made sure that the angles are set correctly, a rope is pulled between the pegs;
5. Stepping back from the resulting marking inward at a distance equal to the thickness of the future foundation, mark the internal contour.

Having finished marking, we begin digging a trench. To do this, we select the lowest point of our marking and from it we count the remaining depth, using the building level. For a small building, a depth of 40 cm will be sufficient, and only a shovel will be enough to dig a trench, although you can easily use the services of an excavator.

Educational video about markup:

Foundation cushion and waterproofing layer

So, the trench is dug, and the next step is to settle the sand bed with a mixture of gravel. This pillow is covered in layers, each of which is watered and compacted. According to standards, the thickness of the entire layer must be at least 15 cm. A waterproofing film is placed on the pillow as a protective layer. A rough concrete mortar can also serve as an alternative, but in this case you will have to wait a week until it hardens.

Installation of formwork

Dimensions of formwork for foundation

The formwork materials can be planed boards, slate, moisture-resistant plywood and oriented strand board (OSB). The formwork is installed vertically to a height of 30 cm, which will allow for the construction of a basement in the future. In order to subsequently install the sewer pipe and water supply, asbestos concrete pipes are laid in the formwork. If you want the formwork material to be able to be used after the foundation has been poured, place a plastic film between the formwork and the concrete. Dismantling of the formwork is carried out 6 days after pouring the concrete.

Laying reinforcement

The reinforcement for laying in a trench with a cross-section of 1-1.2 cm is fastened with a special knitting wire so that cells with sides of 30 to 40 cm are formed. It is not advisable to use welding to fasten the reinforcement, since corrosion may subsequently form at the coupling points. The optimal distance of reinforcement from the edges of the formwork is 50 mm. This placement is the most effective in a monolith. Instead of steel reinforcement, fiberglass reinforcement can be used, but its characteristics must be equivalent.

Pouring concrete

The concrete solution is poured gradually and in layers of 15 cm from a height of no more than 1.5 meters. Each layer is compacted with a wooden tamper or deep vibrator, which increases the overall density.

You can buy concrete for the foundation or make it yourself. In the latter case, the proportion of cement, crushed stone and sand is 1:3:5. If work is carried out at temperatures below 00C, then a concrete heater is used, and potassium chloride or table salt is added to the solution.

Completion of work

The poured concrete is covered with a film and left for at least 2 weeks, during which it will gain strength. If work takes place in hot weather, the hardening concrete is sometimes watered with water so that the cement continues to gain strength and does not turn into dust. It is possible to erect the walls of a building on a do-it-yourself strip foundation only after the concrete has completely matured.

The basis of any structure is the foundation. The stronger and more correctly it is installed, the longer any building will last.

But to make a high-quality base, you need to spend a lot. The third part is the cost of the building - this is the average price of a good foundation.

Therefore, to save budget, many people want to know how to make a foundation with their own hands.

First you need to choose the type of foundation, because there are several types: strip foundation, columnar, pile and slab options. We will explain below how they differ from each other.

Strip foundation

The most versatile and frequently used type of building foundation is a strip foundation. It cannot be used only in permafrost and for structures “on water”.

The essence of the foundation is a closed strip - the base, stretching along the perimeter of the building and in place of the load-bearing internal walls. The photo of the foundation clearly shows that the thickness of the strip should be the same in all areas.

Such a foundation is suitable for any building and allows you to build a high-quality basement or ground floor.

The supply of housing communications at the base can be positioned as conveniently as possible for their operation.

The main disadvantage of this type of foundation is a large number of earthworks and building materials.

Columnar foundation

For small buildings, to save materials, it is recommended to use a columnar foundation. It allows you to provide a high-quality foundation for a lightweight building with less time and effort.

The foundation for a house consists of pillars at the points of maximum load of the building (corners, on long sections with calculated steps, under load-bearing walls).

You can build supports from brick, concrete, or even wood (only rot-resistant wood - larch, for example). The depth for the pillars is selected taking into account the material and type of soil.

After installing all the supports, you need to tie them together unified system, for greater durability.

The disadvantages of the foundation include the impossibility of founding a basement. The base is not suitable for heavy buildings; unstable soil types also preclude its use.

Pile foundation

The foundation of a house on stilts is similar to a columnar foundation, but it is not. The main difference is the depth of the supports. Due to their small diameter compared to the pillars, holes for piles are not dug, but drilled. This allows you to install the supports to greater depths and dig them into more stable rocks.

Otherwise, the technology for placing and tying supports is identical to the columnar foundation.

The main disadvantage of this base is the use of special equipment. However, in Lately piles with a screw at the end began to appear, which allows them to be screwed into the rock like a self-tapping screw. This is what made the piles accessible to the layman.

Slab foundation

One of the most rarely used types of foundation. Reinforced slabs are usually used more often for roads and boulevards, but some people also use them as a foundation for a house.

To create it, a gravel-sand cushion is first poured, after which reinforcement is placed and the foundation is poured. This creates a “floating” foundation for the house.

The advantage of such a basis is independence from the type of soil and its freezing in winter.

But there are many more disadvantages: the impossibility of creating a basement, the difficulty of connecting communications, high consumption materials, the possibility of construction only on level ground.

Now we will tell you in detail about the creation of a strip foundation, as the most common and universal in construction.

Foundation construction plan

To build a reliable and strong foundation, a lot of calculations will be required. Knowing the future dimensions of the structure, you need to calculate the depth of the foundation and its width.

And here we will make an important clarification. It is best for a specialist to independently calculate these parameters. The fact is that the correctly calculated depth and width of the foundation determines whether the foundation of the future building, and therefore your life, will support it or not.

There will be a lot of nuances when calculating, but only professionals know them. For small buildings, if you decide to do without calculations, the depth of the building will be small and the width will be a multiple of 100 mm.

Step-by-step instructions for building a foundation

• Mark the territory.
• Carry out excavation work (dig trenches).
• Create a bed of sand and gravel.
• Make formwork for the foundation.
• Lay the future foundation with a reinforcement belt.
• Provide ventilation (if necessary) using pipe sections.
• Pour concrete.
• Smooth the surface until it hardens.
• After a week, remove the formwork.
• After another 3 weeks, the concrete will completely harden and waterproofing can be done using roofing felt and hot bitumen.
• Lay a brick plinth on top of the concrete and waterproof it.

The foundation is ready!

DIY foundation photo

There are many technologies in construction that make it possible to form a reliable, stable and durable foundation of a residential building - its foundation part. Let's figure out what the advantages and features of the poured method are, and get acquainted with step-by-step instructions on how to make a strip (that is, poured) foundation yourself.

Pouring the foundation for a house with your own hands

Real construction conditions influence the choice of technology

The decision to choose a foundation construction method is made based on the characteristics of the soil. Poured (tape) technology is appropriate only if the construction of a house is carried out in non-subsidence soils. If there are peat bogs on your site, the ground is saturated with water and is clearly swampy - a flooded foundation is not for you.

Strip foundation

A high-quality poured foundation can be made even without being a professional, if you follow the sequence of actions recommended by experienced craftsmen. Filling is a relatively simple, profitable, financially accessible technology that has been proven for decades.

Calculation of a strip foundation for a house

Even in an area with complex terrain, it is easy to create a guide trench and it is not at all necessary to strive for zero error when determining the level of its bottom - when pouring, the liquid solution fills all the voids (in contrast to the requirements for level accuracy if the foundation is created from slabs or blocks). Strip foundations are ideal for low-weight structures: frame-type houses, timber or logs.

Video - Poured Foundation

Start of work: digging a pit or trench

Step one. Decide on the area that the future foundation should cover with its outer perimeter. Before the excavator begins excavating the soil, markings are made (wooden stakes, posts, etc.).

Marking for strip foundation

The thickness of the foundation (thickness of the tape, selection of reinforcing elements) depends on the weight load that is expected from the house being built. Experienced builders and technologists know how to correctly calculate the width and depth of a trench, taking into account the characteristics of the main building. It is recommended to consult with specialists in order to further avoid overloads that could lead to the destruction of the foundation.

Step two. It is important to decide in advance whether you will have a basement space or not. If you want to have a basement or storage area under the house, you will have to dig a wide pit in which the poured foundation will act as walls. However, most often strip foundation is practiced in small depths and basements with a low ceiling are of little interest to anyone, so it is not the foundation pit that is relevant, but the trench.

However, the choice of “pit or trench” is influenced by another factor - the size of the future structure. When the area of ​​the future building is small (say, 5x8 m or 7x9 m), it is more convenient to use a solid pit with an internal approach to the foundation. Subsequently, the void is filled with selected soil or tightly filled with construction waste. On larger sites (from 10x12 m), it is advisable to dig a long trench and not touch the soil at all from the inner perimeter.

Step three. The trench should be slightly wider than the future wooden formwork (form for pouring concrete). The gap is necessary as space for free access to the formwork and to ensure maneuverability of working tools. The most common trench width is about 25-35 cm.

Marking the foundation of a garden house

Approximately the same depth of the foundation along its lower part, provided that the terrain is relatively flat. In places where the relief is lower, it is advisable to keep this figure to a minimum, and where there is an increase in relief, the body of the foundation will be buried much more deeply into the ground. At the planning stage, it is necessary to take into account the curvature of the construction site and make a careful calculation of the difference between the highest and lowest levels of relief.

Attention! In case of uneven terrain, the bottom of the trench is made level, but in no case inclined, not “repeating” the relief slope! In other words, the concrete strip must have the same height everywhere, since vertical load on the foundation from above from the side of the future house is uniform.

Creation of a flood channel - formwork, cushion, reinforcement

Step one. Shields are made from wooden boards, which are installed vertically and form a pouring channel. Use substandard wood, wood waste, etc. It doesn’t matter what the formwork looks like from the outside - the main thing is that the inside of the boards is as smooth as possible.

Formwork for strip foundation

The opposite walls of the formwork are pulled together in several places with temporary fasteners, secured vertically from the outside and additionally supported by inclined blocks - so that when pouring a heavy concrete mass, the formwork walls are not torn apart and the shape of the poured foundation remains unchanged.

The opposite walls of the formwork are pulled together in several places using temporary fasteners

Step two. Sand is laid out at the bottom of the trench in a uniform layer, the thickness of which depends on the individual characteristics of the building under construction - 4-5 or 8-10 cm. The task of the sand cushion is to provide natural shock absorption. After all, even on stable soils, movements in the ground that are invisible to the eye occur.

It is advisable to isolate the sand from the concrete mortar with some kind of linen material of a synthetic composition (so that the process of decomposition does not begin inside the concrete pouring. Insulation allows you to retain moisture and cement laitance in the concrete, thereby preventing the foundation from becoming more fragile.

Step three. Reinforcement is placed inside the filling channel. The most common for these purposes is reinforced mesh; the costs for it are usually included in the estimate. An iron rod is also used. The optimal thickness of bar elements is 8-12 mm. In private construction, any long, flat metal objects (cuts of metal pipes, fragments of old iron beds) are often used.

Reinforcement is placed inside the pouring channel

Attention! Do not weld reinforcing elements under any circumstances. Just tie them together (use wire or special fasteners sold in stores). Welding takes away the plasticity and protection from ruptures from the foundation during those minor movements in the soil that are natural with changes in temperature, humidity, and shrinkage of the house.

Do not weld reinforcing elements under any circumstances.

Preparation of mortar, pouring concrete

Step one. When purchasing concrete, give preference to brands M-200, M-250 and M-300. Typically, the construction of private houses and buildings involves such volumes that a small concrete mixer is enough. In it concrete mixture acquires the necessary mobility (in other words, consistency). The poured mass is easily distributed inside the formwork and carefully fills the smallest air cavities.

Concrete M-300

The composition of the solution is best agreed upon with specialists who have experience in construction in your region and are well versed in the characteristics of dry concrete. There is an easy way to check the viscosity of concrete (its mobility) manually: scoop up a handful of the solution and squeeze it tightly in your fist, then unclench your hand. If all the water has left, the concrete solution is not entirely successful - it has low mobility, and when it hardens, there is a high probability of small cracks forming inside the foundation. If there is concrete milk (mush) left on your hand, the mixture is prepared perfectly! The foundation of such concrete will be dense, ductile, and durable.

Concrete mixer

Step two. It is undesirable to fill during rain and snow (sometimes construction is carried out in spring or autumn, when there is light precipitation - at this time it is better to cover the formwork and wait for the weather to clear). Pour concrete in such portions that in one cycle the entire area at the bottom of the formwork is filled. Ideally, you need to start work in the morning so that by lunchtime or evening you can fill the entire box layer by layer.

Attention! Sometimes on large areas the foundation is poured in parts. Keep the same principle: layer by layer horizontally, but never “side by side” vertically. Remember that the weight load of the house on the foundation is always directed from top to bottom.

Step three. In hot weather (temperatures above +19...+22 °C), it is necessary to periodically pour water over the foundation. This will improve its strength when setting concrete. When the formwork box is completely filled with mortar, you should wait 25-30 days for the concrete to gain maximum strength.

However, the first construction works It is allowed to start working around the house without serious weight loads 10-15 days after pouring the foundation. At this stage, the concrete has gained about 75% strength, and there is no point in wasting time.

Pouring strip foundation

Step four. After the foundation concrete has completely hardened, the formwork can be removed, but the process of creating the foundation is not over. Be sure to make a concrete blind area around the outer perimeter of the house.

The meaning of the blind area:

• prevent contact of the foundation with rain and melt water;
• protect the foundation soil from moisture accumulation;
• move the winter freezing zone away from the house.

Monolithic reinforced blind area

Blind area of ​​strip foundation

Don’t forget to also build drainage structures on the roof and along the walls of the house. After all, even the strongest foundation is not immune to decomposition processes that can occur over time if water and moist fumes are allowed to unimpededly affect concrete.

The construction of the foundation must be taken extremely seriously, because this is the basis of the future home, its strength will depend on it.

Types of foundations.

There are several types of foundations, but the most popular of them is the strip foundation. The reason for such unusual popularity is extremely simple: inexpensive materials, ease of reinforcement, and also the fact that anyone can do it themselves once all the nuances of how to pour the foundation for a house have been studied.

Ribbon structures are used mainly in those houses that plan to have a basement. In other words, it is ideal in our case. But such construction is a very responsible procedure for which you should properly prepare.

Introductory video - types, types and secrets of pouring a foundation for a house

Preparation.

Stage one.

We mark the area where the foundation will be built. For this we need fishing line and several pieces of reinforcement. Such markings should be made either in full accordance with the dimensions of the future house, or ten centimeters wider (to make digging convenient).

At the same time, it is worth remembering that not only the back side is marked, but also the inside (the best distance is about forty centimeters, so you will be as comfortable as possible when digging).

Stage two.

When the markings are ready, you should not rush to start digging a trench. First, it is better to check the diagonals, because they must coincide with each other.

Let's start building the foundation for the house

Stage one.

Digging a pit. In principle, everything is very clear here, so we will not expand on this topic.

Stage two.

The main load will fall on the lower area of ​​the foundation, so we must soften it. This could be, for example, ordinary sand, with which we fill the bottom of the pit, and then compact it thoroughly, periodically pouring water on the sand.

The pouring of the foundation must fully comply with all the requirements, so we build a special formwork (for this, ordinary cut planks are suitable for us). Such a simple move will soon significantly reduce the cost of leveling the foundation walls.

Moreover, you will be able to control the height of the formwork. When the board has fulfilled its function, do not rush to throw it away - it will serve you well as a rafter.

Stage three.

We nail the formwork together with nails or tighten it with screws, it doesn’t matter. The only thing to remember is that when using nails, the caps must be on the outside. In this case, the walls of our foundation will be quite smooth, and dismantling after the mortar has hardened will be significantly simplified.

Stage four.

Don't forget about sewer holes. You need to take care of them in advance, because if you make holes after the base has hardened, the solidity of the structure will be grossly violated.

We also said that for greater strength it is necessary to use metal reinforcement, which should consist of two rows. In order for it to be securely fastened, you need to use a knitting wire - it will perfectly fasten the jumpers together.

But if you do not have such wire, you can use welding (although we do not recommend this technique, since it can later lead to rusting).

In addition, the foundation will be more reliable if the reinforcement is installed crosswise and lengthwise. When the formwork is finished, we check the structure for strength (otherwise it may shift after pouring).

Stage five.

To build our foundation, it is best to use lightweight concrete, and the reinforcement should be made of fiberglass. After this, perhaps, the stage ends preparatory work. Next is the actual filling.

And here you may have a completely adequate question: how to pour the foundation for a house correctly? First of all, it is necessary to correctly calculate the proportions of the solution that will be used.

What should we know about pouring a foundation ourselves?

Before starting the pouring process, make sure that the solution is thick enough (if not, dilute it with water). It is advisable to first acquire a deep vibrator - this will contribute to the uniform distribution of concrete throughout the entire volume of the foundation. In addition, this removes air bubbles, which could subsequently cause structural failure.

You should also determine in advance the level at which the concrete will be poured. When it is poured, the surface is leveled and all irregularities are removed using a regular trowel.

If you carry out work in cold weather, it is necessary to use special additives that accelerate the hardening process. It is advisable to fill the entire area within one day, no need to delay.

What is needed to properly harden the foundation for a house?

The approximate hardening time for concrete is two weeks. And all this time you need to carefully care for it: moisten the surface if it dries out too quickly, cover it with polyethylene in case of rain.

After seven days, we cover the entire surface of the structure with bricks - this will displace the resulting voids.

As for the formwork, it can be removed after three days. And finally, when all the time is gone and the solution is completely dry, you can proceed to the next stage - constructing the base, but this article, alas, is not about that.

In the end, I would like to add a few words about the restoration of the foundation: it needs to be done in several stages, because creating a foundation under a finished structure is much more difficult than from scratch. But in general, we have looked at how to lay the foundation for a house.

Video lesson on pouring a foundation alone

At the initial stage of construction of the entire structure, the foundation is laid. The strength and durability of the entire house depends on the quality and correct execution of this structural part of the building. That is why, if you make the foundation with your own hands, you should know which design to prefer in this or that case, how to choose the right materials, and also make the foundation of a private house according to all the rules. In our article you will find instructions and video tutorials on construction different types grounds yourself.

General provisions

To build a private house, you can make one of the following types foundations:

• tape;
• slab;
• pile;
• columnar.

It is difficult to say which one is the best, since the choice of one or another type of foundation must be made depending on the characteristics of the soil and the features of the structure. The cheapest foundation will not always be the best.

When deciding what foundation to make for a private house, you should be guided by general recommendations. It is also necessary to take into account the construction conditions, namely:

1. Before building a house, you need to carry out geological surveys to know the type of soil, its composition and characteristics.
2. Depth of groundwater. This data can also be obtained during hydrogeological studies.
3. To build any houses and buildings, you need to know the depth of soil freezing.
4. It is also necessary to know the total load from the structure in order to correctly calculate the base structure and select suitable materials.
5. It is important what kind of house you make, with or without a basement or basement.
6. You also need to consider the materials used to make the house, as well as the foundation material.
7. Presence or absence of underground communications.

If you are making a foundation with your own hands, then you should know about common mistakes:

• You should not lay a shallow foundation for light buildings on heaving soils. In this case, frost heaving forces will cause deformation of structures.
• The foundation must rest on solid soil. It would be a mistake to base the house on uncompacted, loose soil.
• Do not forget about the lateral pressure of the soil on the foundation walls, as well as the destructive effect of groundwater.
• It is important to use all measures that allow water to be drained away from foundation structures.

Let's take a closer look at the features of the device and the design of each type of foundation, which you can make with your own hands for a private home.

Tape base

If you decide to build a house with a basement, then a strip foundation is exactly what you need. This type of foundation is used in the construction of houses made of heavy wall materials(brick, concrete, reinforced concrete and natural stone) using wooden or reinforced concrete floors. For more information on how to build such a foundation yourself, see the video tutorial offered at the end of the article.

Important: the strip foundation is made under all external walls and load-bearing structures of the building.

This is not the cheapest foundation, but its use is advisable when constructing a basement, garage, ground floor or cellar. The weight of the structure is transferred to the foundation strips. A concrete distribution pad is usually made under the tape. Its width is slightly larger than that of the tape itself. Thanks to this design, the load from the structure is evenly distributed onto the ground.

According to the manufacturing method, strip bases are of two types:

• prefabricated structures are assembled from factory-prefabricated blocks installed in trenches or pits using a crane;
• reinforced concrete monolithic structures are manufactured at construction site. This option can be done without the use of construction equipment.

For a residential building, you can lay a strip foundation from the following materials:

• reinforced concrete strips are made from concrete of a class not lower than B 15 - B 30, as well as from reinforcement with a diameter of 10-12 mm;
• rubble concrete structures should be made of concrete and coarse filler (small boulders and coarse gravel);
• Brick strip foundations can be built from solid clay bricks.

Pile foundations

It is better to make this foundation if construction will be carried out on weak soils. bearing capacity. We can say that this is a fairly cheap foundation, because the costs of materials and excavation work are minimal. That is why it is very popular.

The entire structure is made in the form of a strip of piles, free-standing elements or entire pile clusters united by a grillage or a monolithic slab. Typically, reinforced concrete or concrete is used to make a slab or beam.

Advice: such a foundation structure should be laid if there is weakened soil (loose sandy or subsidence) under the house at great depths.

According to the type of installation, all pile foundations can be divided into the following types:

• driven (installation is carried out using special equipment);
• screw (such a foundation can be made without the use of construction equipment);
• poured (in this case, pipes are installed into the drilled well, into which concrete is poured).

For private houses, pile foundations can be made from the following materials:

• metal, asbestos or plastic pipes(in this case they act as permanent formwork, and the load-bearing basis is the reinforcement frame inside the pipe, filled with concrete);
• processed softwood logs (such designs are suitable for light, small wooden houses);
• reinforced concrete piles.

Monolithic slab foundation

This is a shallow foundation, which is made in the form of a monolithic reinforced concrete slab. The height of the structure can be in the range of 0.3-0.8 m. For reinforcement, a rod with a diameter of 12-20 mm is used. Concrete is poured over a sand cushion, which is placed on a compacted and leveled base of the pit.

Since the load on the base in this case is distributed most evenly, this type foundations can be used:

• on soils with reduced bearing capacity;
• on soils that are subject to the forces of frost heaving;
• for houses with a height of more than two floors and buildings with a complex structure.

Columnar bases

This foundation option can rightfully be called the most economical. It's quite easy to do it yourself. In essence, the foundation structure consists of pillars buried to a certain depth in the ground. From above, all elements are combined into one structure by means of laid beams.

Important: columnar foundations suitable for light houses made of timber, logs or aerated concrete blocks with a height of no more than 1-2 floors. Frame and frame-panel houses on columnar base can only be built on soil that is not subject to the forces of frost heaving.

Columnar bases can be prefabricated or monolithic. The following materials can be used:

• stone;
• clay brick;
• logs;
• concrete and reinforced concrete;
• steel pipes.

Strip foundation installation technology

Many private developers the right foundation is associated with a strip base, since it is often used in individual construction. Therefore, we will consider the technology for manufacturing a monolithic strip foundation in more detail (it is also shown in our video tutorial at the end of the article).

To work you will need:

• gravel and sand;
• cement not lower than M 200;
• fittings with a diameter of 10-12 mm;
• level, plumb;
• rope, pegs;
• boards for formwork;
• roofing felt;
• nails, hammer and screws;
• shovel;
• concrete mixer, trough or bucket.

We carry out work on the installation of the strip base in the following sequence:

1. We prepare the construction area: we remove garbage, cut off unnecessary green spaces, and level the site. The fertile layer of soil 20 cm thick must be carefully removed.
2. We make a breakdown of the future structure on the ground. To do this we use a rope, pegs and a level. The sequence of marking is as follows:

• first we find the axes of the future structure, measuring them from the edges of the site or neighboring buildings;
• the distance to the outer edge is set off from the axes (this is how we find the first corner and hammer a peg there);
• then we pull a rope or fishing line from the peg and find the remaining corners of the structure, drive in the pegs;
• then a distance equal to the width of the foundation tape is retreated from the markings along the outer edge of the foundation, the pegs are hammered in again, and the cord is pulled.

You can find information on how to properly make a strip foundation in the proposed video tutorial:

A reliable foundation is the key to a strong and durable building. The quality of the foundation plays a decisive role in the success of any construction. It must be said that this applies not only to the qualities of the building itself. Strict adherence to the correct technology for creating a foundation determines the degree of safety of a building for its future inhabitants, that is, it directly affects people’s lives. Of course, the durability of the building depends on what is used as the basis for the building. When building a house yourself, you must pay special attention to the construction of the foundation, take into account all the features and aspects of the technology, and make every effort to comply with them. Only then will your house be truly reliable, beautiful, durable and will last for decades.

We will tell you how to make a foundation for a house with your own hands in this article. Our advice will help you not to lose sight of any important details and complete all work as efficiently and economically as possible. We present to your attention step by step description creating different types of foundations, as well as detailed video instructions that will help you better understand all the nuances of such an important process as constructing a foundation for a house.

How to make a foundation for a house with your own hands: Planning

Planning is the most important stage of construction. Therefore, before starting concrete work on the construction of the foundation, it is necessary to conduct a thoughtful, serious analysis of the following aspects:

• determine soil characteristics;
• correctly select and carry out the correct calculation of the required materials;
• determine ways and means of insulating the base from moisture, and also consider thermal insulation.

In order for the foundation to turn out to be of truly high quality, it is important to select the optimal technology that strictly meets the existing conditions. Each stage of construction must be carefully thought out and coordinated, taking into account all other points. This is necessary so that any suddenly revealed nuances do not cause construction to stop or be completely stopped.

For the soils and climate characteristic of the middle zone, the most suitable and frequently used type of foundation is a strip foundation. As a rule, the choice falls on him for several reasons:

• it is quite easy to do it yourself;
• it will not require large material and physical costs, as well as the use of expensive heavy equipment;
• it allows you to arrange a basement;
• at the same time, its reliability is quite high due to concrete strips that pass under all supporting structures;
• this type has proven itself to be one of the most durable.

It is quite suitable for heaving soils with a risk of flooding. In order to determine what kind of soil is available at your chosen construction site, you can contact specialized companies, where qualified personnel will carry out everything necessary work and will provide comprehensive data on the basis of which you should choose the optimal type of foundation.

This data will help you not only at the stage of foundation construction, but also in the future, when carrying water to the territory and choosing between possible options(pipeline, well, well).

The construction of a strip foundation requires the presence of the following materials:

• cement;
• gravel;
• water;
• boards for formwork;
• frame wires;
• fittings;
• spacer bars;
• brick;
• material for waterproofing;
• nails.

You should also prepare tools: trowel, shovel, tape measure, level, level, hammer.

If you are planning a large-scale construction and you need a large foundation, then it makes sense to think about buying ready-made concrete or purchasing an internal vibrator.

Marking is the first stage that you must consider if you are planning how to make a foundation for a house with your own hands.

So, marking is the first task that needs to be solved when creating a foundation. It is carried out on the basis of design data. In accordance with them, it is necessary to determine the corner points of the planned building, and then, if necessary, intermediate ones. Stakes are installed at certain points. The two pegs should be located relative to each other at a distance equal to the width of the future concrete foundation strip.

Please note that it must exceed the width of the load-bearing wall. After all the pegs have found their proper places, they are connected with a cord.

Don't forget to check how evenly the markings are made using a level. To do this, measure the diagonals of the rectangle that you should have obtained as a result of connecting the peg with twine. They must be equal. If you get a different result, you will have to do the markup again to get all the values ​​to match. Remember that even the slightest deviation can significantly affect the result of all further work.

When you have completed marking the outer perimeter, move on to working with the inner one. Typically, a width of 30 or 40 cm is chosen for the tapes. A trench is dug inside the area bounded by two perimeters, the depth of the foundation. Make its walls even.

It is necessary to choose the depth of the foundation based on groundwater. The foundation should be located higher.

Familiarize yourself with the characteristics of soil freezing; you will find a map of values ​​on the website.

The average trench depth is 1.2-1.5 m. These values ​​are suitable for non-heaving soils without the risk of flooding. The next stage is the creation of formwork inside the dug trench. The best material for this is boards that are connected with nails.

Next, you can move on to creating a gravel cushion at the bottom of the pit. Instead of gravel, you can use a sand-gravel mixture for this purpose. The “pillow” needs to be compacted and moistened. It is recommended to work separately with a layer of sand and a layer of crushed stone, that is, compact them one by one. First - sand, on top - crushed stone. The height of the two layers should be 15-20 cm. Its role is to protect the foundation from negative phenomena caused by seasonal temperature changes. A dense foundation base will prevent the consequences of expansion of soil layers.

Stage two: frame and moisture protection

As mentioned above, the quality of the foundation is the key to the safety of the inhabitants of the building and its durability. Therefore, when building a house yourself, do not try to make your own work easier, because all your efforts will pay off in the end. A frame made of reinforcement is a necessary element of a strip foundation. Place bricks at the bottom of the trench, and on them - scraps of reinforcement in the form of a cage. Make wire connections at the joints of the rods.

The rods must be tied carefully so that the connection is not too tight.

The next point on how to make a foundation for a house with your own hands correctly is waterproofing. The material selected for this purpose is laid on the frame. Roofing felt is optimally suited, it is economical and has proven itself in practical application. Ruberoid is laid in overlapping layers. The joints need to be connected. You can use tape for this. This will ensure reliable protection from moisture.

Stage three: concrete and pouring

You can prepare concrete yourself or order ready-made concrete from professional companies. If you decide to do everything yourself, then we recommend choosing cement from proven high-class brands (M300, M400). You will also need crushed stone and coarse sand. Check out the table of component ratios:

The strength of the foundation grows in direct proportion to the quality of the materials you use for it. Particular attention should be paid to the process of pouring water into the cement. In this case, it is necessary to strictly observe the required ratio of these components. Compliance with this point also determines the strength of the foundation being installed. If you are making concrete with crushed stone, focus on the following ratios of water and cement:

To determine whether the solution is ready, pick up a little mixture on the tip of a shovel. The finished mass should not flow or spread.

The components of the fine fraction of water will require more. See the table below for the ratio of the required volume of water and fractions:

A strong foundation requires high-rigidity concrete. It is this that determines the durability of the foundation and, accordingly, the entire building.

Concrete is poured in layers. Over and over again, the layers must be leveled, they must be pierced to avoid air bubbles from solidifying inside the base. You can use a deep vibrator, but there is a certain risk of compromising the integrity and strength of the frame. You can significantly increase the strength of concrete if you bayonet it.

It will take 4 weeks for the solution to become strong after pouring. During this period, it is necessary to ensure its protection from the influence of various negative factors. In clear and dry weather, you need to cover the structure with polyethylene and wet it from time to time. In rainy weather, you just need to cover it from excess moisture. After the hardening period has expired and strength has gained, the formwork can be removed.

How to build a foundation for a house with your own hands: video of a foundation on pillars

Pile foundation– an excellent solution for unstable soil. It is characterized by increased strength, long service life and adaptability to high loads.

The advantage of this type of structure is that when constructing it there is no need to perform labor-intensive work with the soil and create trenches and pits. The foundation is made in the form of piles that are driven into the ground. Piles can be purchased at finished form, but such products are not cheap. But you can make them yourself.

For the device you will need:

• fittings;
• concrete;
• steel wire;
• roofing felt

You can make the solution yourself from cement, sand, water. To do this, you will need an appropriate container and a deep vibrator. It is necessary to determine the areas where the piles are located with pegs, checking with a tape measure and a level. In order to make holes, you will have to use a drill.

We drill wells ourselves

According to the markings made, wells need to be drilled. They should be spaced no more than 2.5 meters apart from each other. Such work is performed with a hand drill. If water appears in the hole, a pump will be needed to pump out the liquid.

We make piles and concrete

When all the holes are drilled, move on to the formwork. It is made of roofing material folded into a tube, the diameter of which coincides with the cross-section of the future piles. The bundle is secured with steel wire and inserted into the pipe.

Thus, it is necessary to equip each future pile. Ruberoid will give additional rigidity to the piles and prevent cement laitance from being absorbed into the soil. Formwork is also necessary to give a smooth surface to the pile. This is important because all substrates with jagged and rough surfaces are more susceptible to frost heaving than smooth ones. As a result, they deteriorate much faster, which negatively affects the durability of the entire building.

After completing the preparation of the piles, you can start working on the reinforcement frame. Take 3-4 rods of 6 mm cross section. They must be connected with steel wire every half meter. Then the structure must be installed inside the wells so that they stick out in height by 40-60 cm.

Now we need to prepare the solution. Follow the same principles that we have already described above. The solution must be laid in portions, filling 50 cm of piles at a time.

Remember to bayonet to remove air bubbles.

Reinforcement can be used for bayoneting. You can achieve a better result using a vibration installation, but it must be used with great care to avoid damage to the reinforcement.

This design takes 2-3 weeks to achieve final strength. Then you can move on to constructing the grillage. At the same time, reliable grip of the grillage is ensured by the uncut upper parts of the piles.

If you use ready-made metal piles, then to work with them you will need:

• scrap metal;
• pipes 2 m;
• sand;
• cement;
• water;
• anti-corrosion coating.

Prepare the appropriate tools: welding machine, shovel, grinder, level, tape measure.

As always, the first thing you need to do is markup. The piles should be spaced no more than 3 meters apart. After determining their locations, the piles must be screwed in. This type of work can be done on your own, with assistants, or by contacting a specialized drilling company. Of course, professional work will provide higher quality, but it will also increase construction costs.

The wells should be deeper than 1.6 m. This depth is necessary so that the piles do not protrude due to soil deformations.

Often during the drilling process it is discovered that there is some kind of obstacle in the soil. In this case, every effort must be made to get rid of the element that is interfering with the work so that drilling can be carried out as planned. Only those piles that are driven to the required depth can guarantee the reliability of the foundation.

After all the piles are screwed in, they must be cut so that they rise above the ground at the same level. Concrete is then poured inside to protect the piles from corrosion. At the final stage, the heads are attached and the joints are treated with an anti-corrosion agent.

Another advantage of this type of base is that there is no need to wait for the concrete to harden. You can carry out grillage and all other construction work without interruption.