Construction of a strip foundation for a house. How to pour the foundation under the house with your own hands without construction experience? Digging a trench and preparing the bottom of the pit

There are many types of foundations for the construction of private low-rise buildings. But most often, under domestic cottages, an option is set up in the form of reinforced concrete tape under load-bearing walls. After all, to make a strip foundation with your own hands, you only need to have minimal skills in mixing concrete and follow the instructions. The technology for arranging such a foundation is simple, which is why it is chosen so often for independent execution.

What it is?

Structurally, a strip foundation is a reinforced concrete structure created along the perimeter of the future structure to redistribute the load on the ground. A similar support is used for the construction of residential buildings, garages, outbuildings, baths, garages and even fences. It's not difficult to make it yourself.

This is how he looks

However, when building such a foundation, it is extremely important to adhere to certain rules and recommendations. If the manufacturing technology of the strip foundation is not observed, the durability of the supporting structure and the buildings on it can be forgotten. They won't last long.

Seasonal heaving of soils, the effect of moisture on concrete without waterproofing, incorrectly calculated loads - there are many reasons for the destruction of the strip base on which the house already stands. All of them must be foreseen and taken into account in advance, otherwise a damaged or completely destroyed structure will have to be rebuilt.

Types and types of foundation

According to the depth of laying, it is MZLF (shallow) and simply buried. In the first case, the concrete belt for a low-rise building is buried only 200–400 mm into the ground, and in the second case, it is buried up to one and a half meters (below the ground freezing level).

If the soils at the construction site are rocky, and the groundwater is deep, then it is better to choose a cheap and shallow concrete option, small in volume. On heaving, high groundwater levels and sandy areas for the house, you will have to make a more powerful and expensive support. Often, the estimate for a similar basis for a dwelling is such that you generally have to choose a different type of foundation.

Scheme of walls with MZLF

Structurally, the tape reinforced concrete base is:

    Monolithic;

The first type is performed by pouring a reinforced concrete belt. The second option is laid out from special factory-made foundation blocks (FBS) or bricks.

Pros and cons of strip foundation

It has three undoubted advantages

    Extreme simplicity of the device - any novice builder can handle pouring concrete and laying blocks (there is a step-by-step instruction - to build everything correctly, you just need to follow it step by step);

    The ability to withstand heavy loads both from below the ground and from above from the weight of the cottage and everything in it.

A reinforced concrete strip base will last for many years, even if not light aerated concrete blocks are taken for the construction of the walls of the house, but a heavy solid brick. In terms of cost, it is second only to screw piles, however, in most cases it surpasses them in reliability.

Among the disadvantages of such a foundation are:

    Mandatory thorough analysis of soils at the construction site;

    The need to use lifting equipment (in the case of using FBS);

    Long-term curing of concrete for at least 3 weeks (when choosing a monolithic option);

    The impossibility of bookmarking on strongly heaving and watered soils.

Step-by-step instructions - do-it-yourself foundation

The thickness and height of the tape of the base under consideration, as well as the depth of its laying, are selected based on the analysis of the soil, the climatic conditions of the area and the number of storeys of the house being built. Without knowledge in this area, it is better to entrust this design stage to a professional. There are many nuances and requirements of GOSTs that must be observed.

But to create a support for your house already finished project quite possible on your own. But in order to avoid mistakes, it is best to do the strip foundation yourself with step by step instructions, which is shown below. It describes all the details of building a similar design for a typical one-story cottage.

Stages of work

    The first stage is marking and excavation. Regardless of the depth of laying, the sole must rest on solid layers of soil. It can be clays, sandy loams, stony layers or loams. Usually they are hidden under the turf and layers of ordinary earth. All this will have to be torn down and removed before starting to build the foundation of the house.

    We prepare the site, distribute the main materials: fittings, insulation, formwork boards

    To mark the site, you will need pegs, a tape measure and twine. If the soil is dense, then excellent formwork will be obtained from the walls of the dug trench. It will only be necessary to increase it then from above. If the soil is loose and constantly crumbling, then the trench will have to be dug a little more in width so that formwork boards can be placed inside the pit.

    The second stage is the preparation of the pillow. The bottom of the excavated trench is leveled with sand and fine gravel. This sand and gravel layer should be carefully compacted, pouring water as it is filled. In height, it should turn out to be within 10–30 cm. This pillow serves to redistribute and reduce point loads on the strip foundation from below during seasonal swelling of the soil.

    On top of the pillow, you can put a heater - this will avoid heaving from freezing of the soil

    The third stage is the setting of the formwork. Here you will need bars with a cross section of 30 to 40 mm and boards 15–20 mm thick or laminated chipboard. The formwork created for the concrete foundation of the house will subsequently have to withstand a considerable mass of concrete poured into it. Make it strong and reliable. If, after filling with a concrete mixture, it collapses, then everything will have to be started anew.

    We expose the formwork from the boards

    If the groundwater at the construction site is high, then reinforced concrete will require waterproofing. From above, at the level of the basement of the house, it is usually coated. And to protect that part of the base that remains in the ground, a roofing material should be laid in a trench on the sides and at the bottom. It will reliably protect concrete from excess moisture in the soil at the stage of its solidification and after.

    The fourth stage is the laying of reinforcement. For reinforcement, steel rods with a cross section of 14–16 mm and a thin dressing wire are usually used. You can also fasten the reinforcement by electric welding. But in this case, experience with welding machine and he himself. Plus, when performing welding, one must be prepared for the appearance of metal corrosion in the future.

    We knit reinforcement


    Inside the trench, as a result, a frame of reinforcement with cells of 25–30 cm should be formed. Moreover, it is laid so that the steel is covered from all sides with poured concrete. Otherwise, the metal will inevitably begin to rust, then the house will definitely not stand idle for a long time.


    The fifth stage is pouring concrete or laying out FBS. If it is decided to equip the foundation for the house being built using block technology, then this greatly speeds up the process of its construction. Here you do not have to make formwork and wait almost a month until the concrete setting is completed.

    However, reliance on foundation blocks will cost more than a monolithic counterpart. Plus, they will have to dig a larger trench in width. To distribute loads for the bottom row, FBS masonry is made with an expanding base.

    If a monolithic option is chosen for the support device, concrete should be poured immediately over the entire surface. No breaks in length and no layers in height. A monolith is a monolith. The house must be on a solid foundation.

    Nails can mark the border of the pour in the formwork

    When self-preparing the concrete mix, it is necessary to mix cement, sand and crushed stone in proportions of 1: 3: 3. But it is better to initially order a ready-made solution with the M300 brand and higher.

    We fill



    When pouring concrete, it is extremely important to ensure that no voids form inside it. There are special vibrators for compaction. However, you can also use a piece of reinforcement to pierce the filled mass and release air from it.


    The sixth stage is waterproofing and blind area. It is allowed to start waterproofing work 3-4 days after pouring concrete. It takes about three weeks to complete its setting. But you can already begin to process with mastic, even if not completely frozen, the strip foundation for the house.

    We are waiting for solidification

    Also, around the entire perimeter of the building, you will need to make a blind area to drain rainwater away from its walls.

    Finished foundation with basement rows of bricks

Use for building a house

Such a support can easily withstand private houses two or three floors high. To build a cottage on it, you can choose glued beams, logs, foam blocks or ceramic blocks. It is only necessary to correctly examine the soil and correctly calculate all the loads. At the end, the foundation will not hurt to veneer for additional protection from the weather. For this, natural stone or clinker tiles for the facade are ideal. But you can also choose an easier-to-install and inexpensive corrugated board or siding.











Properly choosing and building a foundation that is optimal for a particular type and size of house means providing the building with a solid support that will last for several decades. Even a building designed by a genius will not stand for a couple of years if it is installed on an unreliable foundation. ground water, seasonal precipitation, changes in soil density and its mobility will quickly destroy such a building.

It is desirable to shift the care of choosing and equipping the foundation onto the shoulders of professionals who have the proper experience and know how to build a foundation for a house. This will not lead to budget overruns, laying errors and, as a result, poor quality of the support. Qualified specialists will not only help you decide on the type optimal foundation, which will reduce the overall cost of building a house, but also guaranteed to do the job with the highest quality.

Foundation in section Source plinegroup.ru

Varieties of foundations for low-rise construction

Choosing the right foundation for your home the main task from which construction begins. The wrong view will affect the durability of the building, strength characteristics or cause unnecessary costs. Therefore, you should first decide on the type of support. For this, a number of important parameters are taken into account.

  • The depth of groundwater. If they are too close to the surface, then an unsuitable foundation will lead to flooding and uneven settlement of the building.
  • Density and composition of the soil. Moving soils require one type of foundation, dense - another.
  • Depth of ground freezing. If this factor is not taken into account, then after each thaw there is a chance of cracks in the foundation, walls and ceilings.

Reinforced strip foundation with ventilation holes Source eco-dom.me

IN low-rise construction residential buildings, cottages, baths, sheds and other outbuildings, four main types of foundations are used.

  • Tape. It is a solid structure, which is located around the perimeter of the future building. It can be poured into formwork directly on site or assembled from concrete blocks made separately.
  • Slab. Consists of several layers, each of which performs a specific function. The top layer is a solid reinforced concrete slab.
  • Pile-grillage. It is assembled from pillars buried deep in the ground, which are connected in the upper part by a grillage-lintel, which evenly distributes the load on the structure.
  • Pile. It is erected from supports, which are located evenly under the entire area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe house or under places with the greatest load - the corners of the house, walls, lintels.

Depending on the above factors, the material of manufacture of the building and its dimensions, the final result is determined, and a foundation project for the house is created.

Column foundation in section Source papamaster.su

Column foundation for light outbuildings

When building any foundation, it is necessary to take into account the weight of the building. Light outbuildings do not require a monumental foundation, so columnar foundations are most widely used for them. Their choice is due to the following qualities:

  • speed of installation;
  • low cost;
  • ability to provide secure support.

The columnar foundation is installed on a pillow of sand or fine gravel, in the upper part the pillars are connected by beams, on which a plinth is installed in the future. It is important to take into account the depth of freezing of the soil and the degree of its heaving. This type of base is suitable for inactive soil, otherwise the structure may shift.

Column Foundation Source nauka-i-religia.ru

Pile foundation for frame houses

A pile foundation is several piles screwed or driven into the ground (thick metal pipes with an anti-corrosion coating), on which the piping is mounted and a house is built.

Video description

What are the features of concrete driven piles? We will talk about the pile foundation in our video:

Since this technology is relatively new and not all construction companies can boast that they are fluent in it, then there are still cases when, some time after construction, the house sags somewhat under some piles. But foreign experience shows that such incidents occur only when the technology is not followed, and if the installation pile foundation made in accordance with all the rules, then it will become a reliable support for the house. In addition, piles make it possible to erect buildings even on soils with a high degree mobility.

Source rust-mint.ru

Foundation for wooden log houses

Structures made of rounded logs and timber have less weight than brick or concrete, but exceed frame houses, that's why the best option for them there will be a shallow tape or pile-grillage foundation.

The first option allows you to equip the basement, has sufficient resistance to loads and relatively low cost. To ensure its durability, it is necessary to equip high-quality waterproofing and pour a thick sand cushion.

For a pile-grillage foundation, it is necessary to dig holes to the level of soil freezing and connect them with isthmuses. Then, concrete is poured into the pits and ditches and a concrete band is obtained, from which pillars emerge, resting on the soil below the freezing level.

The device of the pile-grillage foundation Source vsesamirukami.com

These types of foundations provide an opportunity to equip a reliable and durable foundation that can easily withstand the weight. wooden house one or two floors and will avoid unnecessary overpayment by equipping an unnecessarily expensive support designed for an impressive mass.

Slab and strip foundations for stone houses

Buildings made of brick, concrete or building blocks require a strong foundation, because they have an impressive weight and are completely devoid of plasticity, which, although to a small degree, is inherent in wooden houses. The slightest movement of the base can lead to the formation of cracks in the walls and ceilings. Therefore, the best option would be a slab or recessed strip foundation.

Multilayer slab foundation Source garazhov.ru

The slab base is a multi-level structure that fits into a pre-dug hole, slightly larger than the building under construction. Pcastfoundation for the house consists of the following layers:

  • crushed stone pillow;
  • a layer of sand;
  • waterproofing;
  • reinforced concrete slab;
  • second layer of waterproofing;
  • warming.

This type of base allows you to withstand the heavy weight of the building and provides a fixed support on heaving soils.

Strip foundation deep laying is mounted at a depth of more than a meter in order to be below the freezing level of the soil. Depending on the region and the average annual temperature, this value may vary. The tape type of the base performs a dual function, in addition to providing reliable support for the stone walls, it allows you to equip the basement, but in this case you will need to spend money on waterproofing and insulation.

Deep strip foundation Source nauka-i-religia.ru

Online foundation calculator

To find out the approximate cost of foundations of various types, use the following calculator:

What is the cheapest foundation for a house?

Considering how to properly build a foundation for a private house and not spend more than necessary, you should take into account the type of soil, the weight of the building and a lot of other characteristics, then you will be able to choose the ideal option.

  • The lowest cost and time spent are inherent in the columnar foundation. But it has two significant limitations: installation only on inactive or immovable soils and a small weight of the structure. As a result, it is categorically unsuitable for a residential building or heavy construction.
  • In second place are piles, but here it all depends on their variety. Screw ones are the most inexpensive of all but are suitable for light buildings, bored ones for brick and concrete, and driven ones provide a high level of stability, but are very expensive.
  • Strip foundation. A non-buried and shallow-buried view will not cost much more than a columnar one, and a deep-laid tape has the highest price due to the increase in work and the use of a large amount of materials.
  • A monolithic slab is the most expensive type of foundation, but provides maximum reliability on heaving soils. In some cases, such a foundation is the only option suitable for the soil.

Video description

What are the types of foundation? How is the construction of the foundation and how much does it cost? See all this and more in this issue:

As a result, it is far from a fact that a seemingly inexpensive foundation will remain so. Sometimes it happens, for example, that it is more profitable to make a monolithic foundation than to bury a tape foundation to the freezing depth. The choice of foundation should be based on a combination of factors, because the price may change depending on the situation.

Slab foundation with bituminous coating under brick house Source domyou.ru

Strip foundation - the best option

If the soils do not impose special restrictions on the choice of foundation, then the tape will be the best option. Its advantages over others:

  • provides high stability of the building of any weight;
  • universal (depending on the situation, a certain type of basis is used, which allows you to spend the budget within strictly defined limits);
  • the arrangement of hydro- and thermal insulation provides resistance to soil freezing, protects against the formation of condensate and extends the service life of the support.

The only limitation for installing a strip foundation is high soil moisture, but there are few areas with such soils in our country, so in all other cases this type of foundation can be used.

Finished shallow strip foundation Source dachnaya-zhizn.ru

Conclusion

The foundation is one of the most important parts of a building. It is foolish to save on it, it cannot be made of low quality, access to it will be severely limited after the construction of the building, which complicates the repair. His equipment must be done immediately and well, so such work can only be trusted by professionals.

The strip foundation has established itself as a reliable and durable basis for any type of building. Due to its versatility and relatively low price, this type of foundation has found wide application in the construction industry. Having in the arsenal of elementary knowledge in construction, a set of necessary tools, technical means and a great desire, you can easily translate into reality the idea of ​​building a strip foundation with your own hands. You will learn how to fill the strip foundation with your own hands without experience and properly organize the work from our step-by-step instructions.


Before proceeding with the preparatory work, you should decide for yourself what type of strip foundation you prefer to see as the basis of your future building. There are two types of strip foundation:

  • Shallow;
  • Buried.

The first type of strip foundation is suitable for those who want to save their time and financial resources. The arrangement of a shallow foundation does not require trenches of great depth. It is an excellent solution for the construction of buildings of a small area. Experts recommend giving preference to a shallow strip foundation when building structures such as:

  • Wooden houses;
  • One or two-story buildings made of foam concrete or aerated concrete blocks;
  • Frame buildings Canadian technology construction;
  • Monolithic structures with fixed formwork;
  • Small stone buildings.

The depth of this type of foundation does not exceed 50 cm.

A recessed strip foundation is suitable for buildings with heavy walls, concrete pavement and an underground garage or basement. When choosing this type of foundation, it is necessary to correctly calculate its depth. To do this, it is enough to determine the level of soil freezing and subtract 30 cm from this value.

Preparatory work

At this stage, it is necessary to draw up a detailed plan for subsequent work, to start all Construction Materials to the site and place them near the work site. You should also make calculations necessary materials, as well as sizes. In this case, specialized online calculators will come to your aid.

markup

Probably the most important stage in the construction of any type of foundation is marking land plot. Before it starts, it is necessary to clean the entire surface in the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe future foundation from debris and cut off the topsoil to a depth of 15-20 cm, which will help to avoid biological processes of organic decomposition. After arrangement construction site you can proceed directly to the markup. For this:

  1. A peg, in the role of which a piece of reinforcement can play, mark the location of the first corner;
  2. From it, with the help of a rope and a plumb line, mark the position of the second and third corner;
  3. A string is also stretched from the second and third corner and the fourth corner is determined;
  4. After measuring the diagonals and making sure that the corners are set correctly, a rope is pulled between the pegs;
  5. Departing from the received markup inside a distance equal to the thickness of the future foundation, mark the inner contour.

Having finished with the markup, we proceed to dig a trench. To do this, we select the lowest point of our markup and count the rest of the depth from it, using the building level. For a small building, a depth of 40 cm will be enough, and only a shovel will be enough to dig a trench, although you can easily use the services of an excavator.

Informative video about markup:

Cushion and foundation waterproofing layer


So, the trench is dug, and the next step is to settle the sand cushion mixed with gravel. Such a pillow is covered in layers, each of which is watered and rammed. According to the standards, the thickness of the entire layer should be at least 15 cm. As a protective layer, a waterproofing film is laid on the pillow. A rough concrete mortar can also serve as an alternative, but in this case you will have to wait a week until it hardens.

Formwork installation

Foundation formwork dimensions

The formwork material can be planed boards, slate, moisture-resistant plywood and oriented strand board (OSB / OSB). The formwork is installed vertically to a height of 30 cm, which will make it possible to equip the basement in the future. In order to later start a sewer pipe and water supply, asbestos-concrete pipes are laid in the formwork. If you want the formwork material to be used after the foundation has been poured, place a plastic sheet between the formwork and the concrete. Dismantling of the formwork is carried out after 6 days after pouring the concrete.

Rebar laying


Reinforcement for laying in a trench with a cross section of 1-1.2 cm is fastened with a special knitting wire so that cells with sides from 30 to 40 cm are formed. It is not advisable to use welding to fasten the reinforcement, since corrosion may form in the future at the coupling points. The optimal indentation of the reinforcement from the edges of the formwork is 50 mm. This placement is the most efficient in a monolith. Instead of steel reinforcement, fiberglass can be used, but its characteristics must be equivalent.

pouring concrete


The concrete solution is poured gradually and in layers of 15 cm from a height of not more than 1.5 meters. Each layer is compacted with a wooden tamper or internal vibrator, which increases the overall density.

Concrete for the foundation can be bought or made by yourself. In the latter case, the proportion of cement, crushed stone and sand is 1:3:5. If the work is carried out at temperatures below 00C, then a concrete heater is used, and potassium chloride or table salt is added to the solution.

Completion of works


After pouring concrete, it is covered with a film and left for at least 2 weeks, during which it will gain strength. If the work takes place in hot weather, the hardening concrete is sometimes poured with water so that the cement does not stop gaining strength and does not turn into dust. It is possible to erect the walls of a building on a do-it-yourself strip foundation only after the final maturation of the concrete.

The basis of any structure is the foundation. The stronger and more correctly it is installed, the longer any building will last.

But to make a quality foundation, you need to spend a lot of money. The third part of the cost of a building is the average price of a good foundation.

Therefore, many people want to know how to make a foundation with their own hands to save the budget.

First you need to choose the type of foundation, because there are several types of them: strip foundation, columnar, pile and slab options. How they differ from each other, we will describe below.

Strip foundation

The most versatile and commonly used type of building foundation is strip foundation. It cannot be used only in permafrost and for structures "on the water".

The essence of the foundation is a closed strip - the base, stretching along the perimeter of the building and in place of the load-bearing internal walls. The photo of the foundation clearly shows that the thickness of the strip should be the same in all areas.

Such a foundation is suitable for any building and allows you to build a high-quality basement or basement.

Summing up housing communications at the base can be located as convenient as possible for their operation.

The main disadvantage of this type of foundation is a large number of earthworks and building materials.

Column Foundation

For small buildings, in order to save materials, it is recommended to use columnar foundation. It allows you to put a high-quality foundation for a light building with less time and effort.

The foundation for the house represents the pillars at the points of maximum load of the building (corners, in long sections with a calculated step, under load-bearing walls).

You can build supports from brick, concrete, or even wood (only rot-resistant - larch for example). The depth for the pillars is chosen taking into account the material and type of soil.

After installing all the supports, you need to tie them in single system, for greater strength.

The disadvantages of the foundation include the impossibility of establishing a basement. The base is not suitable for heavy buildings, unstable soils also preclude its use.

pile foundation

The foundation of a stilt house looks like a pier foundation, but it is not. The main difference is the depth of the supports. Due to its small diameter compared to the pillars, the pits for piles are not dug, but drilled. This allows you to install supports to a greater depth and dig them into more stable rocks.

Otherwise, the technology for arranging and tying the supports is identical to the columnar foundation.

The main disadvantage of this foundation is the use of special equipment. Recently, however, piles with a screw at the end have begun to appear, which allows them to be screwed into the rock like a self-tapping screw. This is what made piles accessible to the layman.

slab foundation

One of the most rarely used types of foundation. Reinforced slabs are more commonly used for roads and boulevards, but some people also use them as a base for a house.

To create it, a gravel-sand cushion is first poured, after which reinforcement is placed and the foundation is poured. It turns out a "floating" base under the house.

The advantage of such a basis is independence from the type of soil and its freezing in winter.

But there are much more minuses: this is the impossibility of creating a basement, the difficulty of summing up communications, high flow materials, the possibility of erection only on flat terrain.

Now we will tell in detail about the creation of a strip foundation, as the most common and versatile in construction.

Foundation construction plan

To build a reliable and strong foundation, a lot of calculations will be required. Knowing the future dimensions of the building, you need to calculate the depth of the foundation and its width.

And here we will make an important clarification. It is best for a specialist to make an independent calculation of these parameters. The fact is that it depends on the correctly calculated depth and width of the base whether the foundation of the future building will withstand or not, and therefore your life.

There will be a lot of nuances in the calculation, but only professionals know them. For small buildings, if you decide to do without calculations, the depth of the building will be small, and the width is a multiple of 100 mm.

Foundation construction step by step instructions

  • Mark out the territory.
  • Carry out earthworks (dig trenches).
  • Create a cushion of sand and gravel.
  • Make formwork for the foundation.
  • Lay the future foundation with a reinforcement belt.
  • Provide ventilation (if necessary) using pipe sections.
  • Pour concrete.
  • Level the surface until dry.
  • After a week, remove the formwork.
  • After another 3 weeks, the concrete will completely harden and waterproofing can be done using roofing material and hot bitumen.
  • Lay a plinth on top of the concrete with a brick and make waterproofing.

The foundation is ready!


DIY foundation photo




In construction, there are many technologies that make it possible to form a reliable, stable and durable basis for a residential building - its foundation part. Let's figure out what the advantages and features of the flood method are, get acquainted with step-by-step instructions on how to make a strip (that is, flood) foundation on your own.

Pouring the foundation under the house with your own hands

Real construction conditions influence the choice of technology

The decision on the choice of foundation construction methodology is made based on the characteristics of the soil. Filling (tape) technology is appropriate only if the construction of the house is carried out in non-sag soils. If there are peat bogs on your site, the land is saturated with water and is clearly swampy - a flood foundation is not for you.

Strip foundation

A high-quality flood foundation can be made even without being a professional, if you follow the sequence of actions recommended by experienced craftsmen. Filling is a relatively simple, profitable, financially accessible technology that has been proven for decades.

Calculation of the strip foundation for the house

Even on a site with difficult terrain, it is easy to create a guide trench and it is not at all necessary to strive for zero error when determining the level of its bottom - when pouring, the liquid solution fills all the voids (in contrast to the requirements for level accuracy if the foundation is created from slabs or blocks). The strip foundation is ideal for lightweight structures: frame-type houses, timber or logs.

Video - Flood foundation

Getting started: digging a pit or trench

Step one. Decide on the area that the future foundation should cover with its outer perimeter. Before the excavator starts excavating the soil, markings are made (wooden stakes, posts, etc.).

Marking for strip foundation

The power of the foundation (the thickness of the tape, the selection of reinforcing elements) depends on the weight load that is expected from the house under construction. Experienced builders and technologists know how to correctly calculate the width and depth of the trench, taking into account the characteristics of the main building. It is recommended to consult with specialists in order to avoid overloads that can lead to the destruction of the foundation in the future.

Step two. It is important to decide in advance whether you will have an intra-basement space or not. If you want to have a basement or storage under the house, you will have to dig a wide pit, in which the flood foundation will play the role of walls. However, most often strip foundation is practiced in small depths and basements with a low ceiling are of little interest to anyone, therefore, it is still not a foundation pit, but a trench that is relevant.

However, the choice of "pit or trench" is influenced by another factor - the size of the future structure. When the area of ​​​​the future building is small (for example, 5x8 m or 7x9 m), it is more convenient to retire a continuous pit with an internal approach to the foundation. In the future, the void is filled with the selected soil or tightly filled with construction waste. On larger sites (from 10x12 m), it is advisable to dig a long trench, and do not touch the soil at all from the side of the inner perimeter.

Step three. The trench should be somewhat wider than the future wooden formwork (form for pouring concrete). The gap is necessary as a space for free access to the formwork, as a way to ensure the maneuverability of working tools. The most common trench width is about 25-35 cm.

Marking the foundation of a garden house

Approximately the same depth of the foundation along its lower part - provided that the relief is relatively even. In places where the relief is lowered, it is advisable to adhere to such a figure as a minimum, and where there is an increase in relief, the foundation body will be buried much more deeply into the ground. At the planning stage, you need to take into account the curvature of the construction site, make a careful calculation of the difference between the highest and lowest level of relief.

Attention! With uneven terrain, the bottom of the trench is made even in level, but in no case is it inclined, not “repeating” the relief slope! In other words, the concrete tape should have the same height everywhere, since the vertical load on the foundation from above from the side of the future house is uniform.

Creation of the flood channel - formwork, cushion, reinforcement

Step one. Shields are knocked together from wooden boards, which are installed vertically and form a filling channel. Use substandard wood, woodworking waste, etc. It does not matter how the formwork looks from the outside - the main thing is that the inside of the boards be as smooth as possible.

Formwork for strip foundation

Opposite formwork walls in several places are pulled together with temporary fasteners, fixed from the outside with vertical ones and additionally supported by inclined blocks - so that when pouring a heavy concrete mass, the formwork walls do not break apart and the shape of the poured foundation remains unchanged.

Opposite formwork walls in several places are pulled together with temporary fasteners

Step two. Sand is laid out at the bottom of the trench in a uniform layer, the thickness of which depends on the individual characteristics of the building under construction - 4-5 or 8-10 cm. The task of the sand cushion is to provide natural cushioning. After all, even on stable soils, movements invisible to the eye occur in the soil.

It is desirable to isolate the sand from the concrete mortar with some kind of linen material of synthetic composition (so that the process of decomposition inside the concrete pour does not begin. Insulation allows moisture and cement milk to be retained in the concrete, thereby preventing the foundation from becoming more fragile.

Step three. Fittings are placed inside the casting channel. The most common for these purposes is a reinforced mesh, the cost of it is usually included in the estimate. An iron rod is also used. The optimal thickness of bar elements is 8-12 mm. In private construction, any metal objects of a long, flat shape are often used (cuttings of metal pipes, fragments of old iron beds).

Fittings are placed inside the casting channel

Attention! In no case do not weld the reinforcing elements. Only tie together (use wire or special clamps sold in stores). Welding takes away the plasticity and protection from ruptures from the foundation during those slight movements in the soil, which are natural when the temperature, humidity changes, and when the house shrinks.

Never weld reinforcing elements

Mortar preparation, concrete pouring

Step one. When buying concrete, give preference to the M-200, M-250 and M-300 brands. Usually, the construction of private houses and structures implies such volumes that a small concrete mixer is sufficient. In her concrete mix acquires the necessary mobility (in other words, consistency). The poured mass is easily distributed inside the formwork, carefully filling the smallest air cavities.

Concrete M-300

The composition of the mortar is best coordinated with specialists who have experience in construction in your area, well versed in the characteristics of dry concrete. There is an easy way to check the viscosity of concrete (its mobility) manually: scoop up a handful of mortar and squeeze it tightly in a fist, then open your hand. If all the water has come out, the concrete solution is not entirely successful - it has low mobility, and when solidified, there is a high probability of small cracks forming inside the foundation. If concrete milk (slurry) remains on the hand, the mixture is wonderfully prepared! The foundation of such concrete will turn out to be dense, plastic, long-lasting.

Concrete mixer

Step two. It is undesirable to pour during rain and snow (sometimes construction is carried out in spring or autumn, when there is little precipitation - at this time it is better to cover the formwork, wait for the weather to clear up). Pour concrete in such portions that the entire area at the bottom of the formwork is filled in one cycle. For good, you need to start work in the morning, so that somewhere by lunch or by evening, layer by layer, fill the entire box.

Attention! Sometimes on large areas the foundation is poured in parts. Keep the same principle: layer by layer horizontally, but never "side by side" vertically. Remember that the weight load of the house on the foundation is always directed from top to bottom.

Step three. In hot weather (temperature above +19 ... +22 ° C), it is necessary to periodically pour water over the foundation. This will improve its concrete setting strength. When the formwork box is completely filled with mortar, you should wait 25-30 days for the concrete to gain maximum strength.

However, the first construction works around the house without serious weight loads, it is allowed to start already 10-15 days after pouring the foundation. At this stage, concrete has gained about 75% strength, and there is no point in wasting time.

Filling the strip foundation

Step four. After the foundation concrete has completely hardened, the formwork can be removed, but the process of creating the foundation is not over. Be sure to make a concrete pavement around the outer perimeter of the house.

The meaning of the blind area:

  • prevent contact of the foundation with rain and melt water;
  • protect the foundation soil from moisture accumulation;
  • move the winter freezing zone away from the house.

The blind area is monolithic reinforced

The blind area of ​​the strip foundation

Do not forget to also build drainage structures on the roof and along the walls of the house. After all, even the most solid foundation is not immune from the decomposition processes that can occur over time if water and wet vapors are allowed to freely affect concrete.

The construction of the foundation must be taken extremely seriously, because this is the basis of the future dwelling, its strength will depend on it.

Foundation types.

There are several types of foundation, but the most popular of them is the strip foundation. The reason for such an unusual popularity is extremely simple: inexpensive materials, ease of reinforcement, and also the fact that anyone can do it on their own when all the nuances of how to fill the foundation under the house are studied.

Tape structures are used mainly in those houses in which it is planned to have a basement. In other words, it is ideal for our case. But such construction is a very responsible procedure, for which one should properly prepare.

Introductory video - types, types and secrets of pouring the foundation under the house

Training.

Stage one.

We mark the territory on which the foundation will be erected. To do this, we need a fishing line and a few pieces of reinforcement. Such markings should be made either in full accordance with the size of the future house, or ten centimeters wider (to make it convenient to dig).

At the same time, it is worth remembering that not only the back side is marked, but also the inner one (the best distance is about forty centimeters, so it will be most comfortable for you to dig).

Stage two.

When the markup is ready, you should not rush to start digging a trench. First, it is better to check the diagonals, because they must coincide with each other.

Starting to build the foundation for the house

Stage one.

Roem a pit. In principle, everything is very clear here, so we will not expand on this topic.

Stage two.

The main load will fall on the lower area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe foundation, so we need to soften it. It can be, for example, ordinary sand, with which we will fill the bottom of the pit, and then carefully compact it, periodically pouring water on the sand.

The pouring of the foundation must fully comply with all the requirements, therefore we construct a special formwork (ordinary cut planks are suitable for this). Such a simple move will soon significantly reduce the cost of leveling the walls of the foundation.

Moreover, you will be able to control the height of the formwork. When the plank has fulfilled its function, do not rush to throw it away - it will serve you well as a rafter.

Stage three.

We hammer the formwork with nails or tighten it with screws, it does not matter. The only thing to keep in mind is that when using nails, the caps must be on the outside. In this case, the walls of our foundation will be quite even, and dismantling after the mortar has solidified will be greatly simplified.

Stage four.

Don't forget about the sewers. They need to be taken care of in advance, because if you make holes after the base has solidified, then the solidity of the structure will be grossly violated.

We also said that for greater strength it is necessary to use metal reinforcement, which should consist of two rows. In order for it to be securely fastened, you need to use a knitting wire - it will perfectly fasten the jumpers together.

But if you do not have such a wire, then you can use welding (although we do not recommend this technique, since it can later lead to rust).

In addition, the foundation will be more reliable if you install reinforcement across and along. When the formwork is finished, we check the structure for strength (otherwise it may move after pouring).

Stage five.

For the construction of our foundation, it is best to use lightweight concrete, and the reinforcement should be made of fiberglass. After that, perhaps, the stage of preparatory work ends. Next - directly filling.

And here you may have a completely adequate question: how to fill the foundation under the house correctly? First of all, it is necessary to correctly calculate the proportions of the solution to be used.

What should we know about pouring the foundation with our own hands?

Before starting the pouring process, make sure that the solution is thick enough (if not, dilute it with water). It is advisable to first acquire a deep vibrator - this will contribute to a uniform distribution of concrete throughout the entire volume of the foundation. In addition, air bubbles are removed in this way, which could later cause the destruction of the structure.

You should also pre-designate the level at which the concrete will be poured. When it is poured, the surface is leveled and all irregularities are removed using a conventional trowel.

If you work in cold weather, you must use special additives that accelerate the hardening process. It is advisable to fill the entire area within one day, no need to delay.

What is needed for the correct hardening of the foundation for the house?

Approximate curing time for concrete is two weeks. And all this time it needs to be carefully looked after: moisten the surface if it dries too quickly, cover it with polyethylene in case of rain.

After seven days, we lay the entire surface of the structure with bricks - this will force out the voids that have formed.

Regarding the formwork, it can be removed after three days. And, finally, when all the time comes out and the solution is completely dry, you can proceed to the next step - the construction of the base, but this article, alas, is not about that.

In the end, I would like to add a few words about the restoration of the foundation: it needs to be done in several stages, because creating a foundation under a finished building is much more difficult than from scratch. But in general, we have considered how to pour the foundation under the house.

Video lesson on pouring the foundation alone

The basis of any structure is the foundation. The stronger and more correctly it is installed, the longer any building will last.

But to make a quality foundation, you need to spend a lot of money. The third part of the cost of a building is the average price of a good foundation.

Therefore, many people want to know how to make a foundation with their own hands to save the budget.

First you need to choose the type of foundation, because there are several types of them: strip foundation, columnar, pile and slab options. How they differ from each other, we will describe below.

Strip foundation

The most versatile and commonly used type of building foundation is strip foundation. It cannot be used only in permafrost and for structures "on the water".

The essence of the foundation is a closed strip - the base, stretching along the perimeter of the building and in place of the load-bearing internal walls. The photo of the foundation clearly shows that the thickness of the strip should be the same in all areas.

Such a foundation is suitable for any building and allows you to build a high-quality basement or basement.

Summing up housing communications at the base can be located as convenient as possible for their operation.

The main disadvantage of this type of foundation is a large amount of earthworks and building materials.

Column Foundation

For small buildings, in order to save materials, it is recommended to use a columnar foundation. It allows you to put a high-quality foundation for a light building with less time and effort.

The foundation for the house represents the pillars at the points of maximum load of the building (corners, in long sections with a calculated step, under load-bearing walls).

You can build supports from brick, concrete, or even wood (only rot-resistant - larch for example). The depth for the pillars is chosen taking into account the material and type of soil.

After installing all the supports, you need to tie them into a single system, for greater strength.

The disadvantages of the foundation include the impossibility of establishing a basement. The base is not suitable for heavy buildings, unstable soils also preclude its use.

pile foundation

The foundation of a stilt house looks like a pier foundation, but it is not. The main difference is the depth of the supports. Due to its small diameter compared to the pillars, the pits for piles are not dug, but drilled. This allows you to install supports to a greater depth and dig them into more stable rocks.

Otherwise, the technology for arranging and tying the supports is identical to the columnar foundation.

The main disadvantage of this foundation is the use of special equipment. Recently, however, piles with a screw at the end have begun to appear, which allows them to be screwed into the rock like a self-tapping screw. This is what made piles accessible to the layman.

Note!

slab foundation

One of the most rarely used types of foundation. Reinforced slabs are more commonly used for roads and boulevards, but some people also use them as a base for a house.

To create it, a gravel-sand cushion is first poured, after which reinforcement is placed and the foundation is poured. It turns out a "floating" base under the house.

The advantage of such a basis is independence from the type of soil and its freezing in winter.

But there are much more disadvantages: this is the impossibility of creating a basement, the difficulty of laying down communications, the high consumption of materials, the possibility of building only on flat terrain.

Now we will tell in detail about the creation of a strip foundation, as the most common and versatile in construction.

Note!

Foundation construction plan

To build a reliable and strong foundation, a lot of calculations will be required. Knowing the future dimensions of the building, you need to calculate the depth of the foundation and its width.

And here we will make an important clarification. It is best for a specialist to make an independent calculation of these parameters. The fact is that it depends on the correctly calculated depth and width of the base whether the foundation of the future building will withstand or not, and therefore your life.

There will be a lot of nuances in the calculation, but only professionals know them. For small buildings, if you decide to do without calculations, the depth of the building will be small, and the width is a multiple of 100 mm.

Foundation construction step by step instructions

  • Mark out the territory.
  • Carry out earthworks (dig trenches).
  • Create a cushion of sand and gravel.
  • Make formwork for the foundation.
  • Lay the future foundation with a reinforcement belt.
  • Provide ventilation (if necessary) using pipe sections.
  • Pour concrete.
  • Level the surface until dry.
  • After a week, remove the formwork.
  • After another 3 weeks, the concrete will completely harden and waterproofing can be done using roofing material and hot bitumen.
  • Lay a plinth on top of the concrete with a brick and make waterproofing.

The foundation is ready!


DIY foundation photo


Note!