Your own country house. We build a frame summer house with our own hands
The dream of many citizens is a beautiful small house outside the city, where you can escape from the city noise and bustle, hide from the heat, and feel the pleasant freshness of the earth under your feet instead of hot asphalt. But not everyone’s dreams come true; it seems that country house- it’s difficult, expensive, and time-consuming. In fact - build country house doing it yourself is quite simple.
Planning the space
Choosing a location for a future country house is not the time for hasty decisions, because there is not that much space. Thoughtful, competent planning will help you use every piece of land as efficiently as possible. Even though this is your land, you will have to fulfill a number of requirements, maintaining a minimum distance:
- from the street – 5 m
- from the passage – 3 m
- from the neighboring plot - 3 m
We are not considering the option with a low area - water will accumulate there. Optimally, the highest place on the site is in its northern (northwestern) part.
Projects of small country houses
Considering typical designs of country houses, it is easy to notice that the undisputed favorite is a one-story building with an attic. This is a time-tested option for a country house, but you can dispense with the utility unit, because equipment and household supplies can be stored in the attic.
You can add a terrace to the house - in summer it can be used as a dining room. Two-story country houses often get it without actually building a “clean” second floor, having equipped it instead attic. Then on the ground floor you can plan a kitchen and living room, and the second floor - for the personal space (bedrooms) of the owners.
Advice! You can save significantly on the heating system - even at the most modest prices for installing a classic one (boiler, pipes and radiators) accounts for 15-20% of the total budget. If you are building a small country house with your own hands, where you plan to live only during the “season” (late spring - early autumn), then to heat it in bad weather, you can get by with electric or infrared heaters.
Prefabricated country houses - unpretentious, outwardly uniform parallelepipeds with roof changed interesting ones architectural plan buildings, with an improved layout, one or two floors.
You buy a kind of construction kit; such a country house can be easily erected with only basic knowledge about construction. The main thing is that it already includes all the systems - electrical wiring, ventilation, air conditioning, plumbing. This will help avoid many mistakes that beginners make when they decide to build a country house with their own hands.
A prefabricated country house is designed for a long holiday with family or friends; it is larger in area, can be one or two floors, with an improved layout. Such a house is equipped with a technical room, a kitchen, rest rooms and a bathroom, equipped with a heating, ventilation, air conditioning system, and supplied with electricity.
The house can be equipped with a water heater, sink, countertop, hanging shelves, shower cabin, necessary plumbing. After installing such a country house, no additional repair work, it is completely ready for use.
Laying the foundation
The choice of foundation type is directly related to the choice of material from which the house will be built, as well as the number of storeys. Light houses (from rounded wood, timber, frame houses and modular) can be erected on columnar or screw foundation, heavy (brick, aerated concrete, stone, concrete blocks) And two-story houses will require bookmarks strip foundation(as an option - prefabricated, made of reinforced concrete blocks) around the entire perimeter and under the load-bearing walls of the house.
It is important to know the depth of soil freezing - the foundation should be laid below this level, taking into account the level at which groundwater lies.
In the basement part it is required to install waterproofing at a level of 0.2-0.5 m from the ground. If the soil is dry enough (sand), a cement-sand screed 2-4 cm thick can be used as a screed. For wet soil, roofing material will need to be laid on top of such a screed - in two layers. As an option, roofing felt can be glued onto a dry screed using hot mastic. Waterproofing is installed below the expected level of laying the floor beams.
Advice! In the basement, to ensure ventilation of the subfloor, small holes are made, which are covered with a protective mesh.
A blind area is created around the base, its width is at least 70 cm (it should protrude further than the overhang of the cornice), with a slight slope directed from the walls of the house. To do this, the top layer of earth is removed, clay (sand) is poured, a layer of crushed stone (gravel, broken brick) is poured on top of it and filled with concrete (rolled with asphalt).
Floor and walls
Flooring begins with laying joists. To insulate the floor, insulation is laid between the joists, on top of which a vapor barrier is laid. It is attached to the joists with a stapler, and the joints are taped. Then the subfloor is laid, for which they use an unedged, cheapest board, having previously treated it with an agent against dampness and rot. And only then the finished floor is laid out. In a two-story house, the frame for the floor on the second floor is the ceiling beams of the first.
Since you are reading this article, holidays outside the city on your own site are attractive to you. A country house is, of course, necessary for this. It is highly desirable to build it simple, cheap and. Not only for the sake of saving Money and their labor, but also the land area. In this publication you will find information on how to build a country house with your own hands as simply, quickly, easily and cheaper as possible. It is also desirable that the ergonomics of the house allow you to wait out a long period of bad weather in it without experiencing discomfort, and that the design of the building makes it possible to use various design solutions for its external and internal design.
Where to start
The first question that needs to be resolved when planning to build a country house is what to build it from? Where is already known, the site cannot be transported anywhere. Based on the material, soil at the construction site and weather conditions, the design of the house is selected, developed or selected for it finished project, and then - estimates, purchases, and off to work. We will start with the choice of material.
What to build from?
Since we are interested in options that are easy to implement, log houses are also excluded from consideration: building them yourself is very difficult. In addition, such houses are sensitive to seasonal soil movements and therefore require a foundation no less reliable than a full-buried strip foundation (from 0.6 m below the standard freezing depth of the NGP, counting along the base of the strip). A fully buried foundation must be able to withstand its own shrinkage from at least the end of summer until the full warmth of spring next year. Insulated slab foundations require the same endurance, for example. Swedish stove. There is, however, a type of foundation for wooden houses, which does not require a technological break (see below), but the timber or log structure itself must be allowed to shrink for a year before it is ready for finishing. That's why a log or log house will be disproportionately expensive (from approx. 12,000 rubles/sq. m) and difficult to build independently.
The same situation arises with brick houses and. Ultimately, the construction of a small country house made of brick, foam block or timber turns out to be advisable only on very small areas, when an extremely compact structure is required. In this case, the house is built with 2 floors; brick and timber technologies allow an untrained, but attentive and careful builder to build a 2-story house. Examples of the layout of a compact 2-story brick and timber house are given in the figure:
Note: It is easier for a novice builder to build a foam block house than a brick, timber or log house. Building a country house from foam/gas blocks makes sense if the country house is visited all year round– no additional insulation is needed and heating costs will be lower.
The simplest and quick ways the buildings small house– assembly from a ready-made panel house kit or structural insulated panels (SIP). A prefabricated panel house 20x20 feet (6x6 m) is erected within a week by a pair of chimpanzees of average mental abilities trained according to the instructions for the kit. It’s no joke, there were such experiences. But, alas, the cost of construction. At current prices, somewhere from 18,000 rubles/sq. m. Without foundation.
A house made of SIP will cost less, approx. from 15,000 rub./sq. m with a foundation on geoscrews (see below). However, SIP structures are held together with locks between the panels. For a SIP house to be completely reliable, it must have quite a lot internal partitions from the same SIP with locks. Since there are few or no partitions in a compact house, we also do not touch SIP as a material for it.
So, we come to the conclusion: to build a country house quickly, simply and inexpensively from wood. With one small but very significant exception, see below.
Project
It is better to build an inexpensive garden and/or compact country house according to a standard design; For significant construction details, see below. Ready free project It’s quite easy to find a country house using any search engine. Or for a fee - detailed standard project garden house for 300 rub. can actually be found on the relevant websites.
How to choose easier and cheaper
However, when going through projects, you need to take into account some significant circumstances, namely the cost, duration and complexity of the zero cycle, i.e. earthworks and laying the foundation. The problem is frost heaving of the soil. During seasonal movements, the ground under the house does not shake and does not roll in waves. Summer cottages cut on diverse soils, but with one common property - sufficient intrinsic cohesion, otherwise no one needs such a dacha. Therefore, within a certain space on the surface frost heaving soil is reduced mainly to the rise/reverse subsidence of its surface with a slight roll.On the other hand, a small country house has excessive rigidity and elasticity. The square-cube law, well known in technology (and stubbornly unnoticed by amateurs), applies here. It’s easy to test it experimentally: glue together cubes with sides of 2 and 10 cm from ordinary writing paper and try to crumple both. The third factor is the soil’s own cohesion is inextricably linked with its mechanical properties.
Without going into further details, we will immediately state the conclusion: if a small wooden country house fits into a circle of a certain diameter in the plan, then on ordinary garden soils it can be built on a shallow foundation, which is much faster, simpler and cheaper. In which circle should the design of a wooden house fit into the plan, so that it can be built on a shallow foundation on soils up to and including medium heaving, is shown in Fig. Here everything depends, as we see, on the proportions of the structure: the more “square” the house is, the better it copes with seasonal ground movements. Therefore, houses are “trams” for narrow areas It is better, without looking closely, to build on a foundation of normal depth. But if the relationship is “sticks” T-shaped house lies within 1 Note: the veranda/terrace is included in the projection of the house if it is rigidly connected to its structure. Verandas that do not have a mechanical connection with the house or an articulated connection with it are excluded from the house plan projection. We will assume that we have decided on the foundation. Let us only remind you that under a brick, timber or log house on all soils except non-heaving soils, you need to lay a normally buried TISE strip or foundation. A slab foundation with insulation “settles” on the ground for 2-3 years; this is enough for a timber or log house to begin to crack. Under a house made of timber or foam blocks on slightly heaving soil, you can lay a foundation using geoscrews (see below) with a steel grillage. The easiest and cheapest way to assemble a non-buried foundation for a compact country house is a columnar one from ready-made concrete blocks 200x200x400. The blocks are laid out on cement-sand mortar from M150, two in a row; the top ones cross the bottom ones. Thus, the column is 400x400 mm in plan. The pits for the posts are dug to a depth of 0.5 m; of which 15+15 cm is made up of an anti-heavy sand and crushed stone cushion. There is no point in deepening the pillars of blocks by more than 20 cm: the ligation of the seams is weak, and the horizontal components of the forces of frost heaving will tear the pillars. The number of rows of blocks in a column is made more than 2, if the house needs to be raised above the ground by more than 20 cm. The maintenance break after installing a columnar foundation made of blocks is required to be minimal, for hardening of the masonry mortar, this is approx. a week. The buried foundation of a compact house is often made, following the example of large buildings, on bored piles in soft roofing felt formwork. If the house is on a slope, asbestos-cement pipes are placed on the shell of the piles, which makes it possible to compensate for the difference in height along the slope of up to 1.7 m or more. With regard to fast, small-scale construction, the disadvantage of these foundations is the same as that of the tape - they must stand and settle at least from autumn to spring. Note: There is no point in laying a TISE foundation for a light compact house - the “caps” of TISE piles work normally in the ground only under sufficient weight load from the building. Of small-sized houses, only a 2-story brick or concrete one can create one. The best option for a buried foundation for a compact house is with geoscrews. Geoscrews are a type of shortened screw piles specifically for light buildings. Unlike conventional ones, geoscrews are not designed for muddy, loose and floating soils. A foundation with geoscrews for a large house will cost significantly more than a homemade strip foundation, because... Geoscrews themselves are not cheap, but for a small house this is not so bad, since few screws are required. A geoscrew for low- and medium-density soils, by the principle of holding it in the ground, is somewhat similar to a confirmed furniture screw and also looks like it in appearance, see fig.: The smooth head of geoscrews for dense soils is uniformly cylindrical. Both geoscrews can be used on soils up to excessive heaving. You can either lay the wooden bottom frame of a building on the heads of geoscrews or mount a steel grillage. For information on how to build a wooden house on screw piles, see, for example. track. video: The advantages of geoscrews for quick construction on a small site in cramped conditions are enormous: Note: If you are building according to a ready-made project, which indicates the type and characteristics of the foundation, then you need to follow the recommendations of the designers, or consult with them on whether such and such a foundation is suitable on such and such soil. Let's get to the point: what kind of simple country house will be cheaper and more likely to be built? In order of increasing cost, complexity and construction time, as well as potential aesthetic qualities (suitability for design and decoration), the options are arranged as follows. way: KUNG is an abbreviation for Unified Body of Normal (Zero) Dimensions. In the USSR, unified closed bodies for cars appeared after the Second World War, and thanks to their convenience, the name kung soon became a household name. A country house made of kung, most importantly, is very cheap: a decommissioned kung cabin from ZIL-131 can be found for 30,000 rubles. And the construction comes down to bringing it and placing it on posts, concrete supports for grape trellises, etc., laid on a crushed stone bed (so that weeds do not sprout and annoying living creatures do not appear). A foundation for a kung is not needed on any ground in any climate - the kung is designed for off-road driving and overturning of the carrier vehicle. The kung as a country house has only one drawback: its utilitarian appearance, which any design efforts only stick out. But there are a lot of advantages: It is better to look for a kung for a country house from a ZIL-131 or GAZ-66 car (see figure): they have a flat floor and it is easier to place them on posts due to the small or absence of recesses for the wheel arches. You need 6 pillars (you can use dry stacked brick ones): in the corners in the middle of the long sides. Among other things, kungs from ZIL-131 and GAZ-66 are cheaper and can be converted into housing easier than Ural and KAMAZ ones. Note: Don’t take non-standardized “booths” from ancient ZiSs and GAZ-51-53, their frames are highly susceptible to corrosion and the insulation is no good. The width of the kung is standard according to zero vehicle dimensions (2.4 m), and the length can be in the range of 3.5-8.5 m. If your site is long and narrow, then a “tram” house made from a kung on it is practically the only way to do without laying a buried foundation. For a country house, it is preferable to look for a two-compartment kung (double-compartment), on the left in Fig. But any other empty one turns out to be surprisingly spacious, in the center. The kung cabin (top left and right in the figure) already provides normal habitability for 3-4 people, but it would be even better to look for a kung cabin from old communication hardware. There are also sleeping places for a crew of 3-4 people, and after some effort, such a kung turns out to be not a house, but a piece of candy, below right in the figure. It is better to remove the right (looking from the entrance) compartment for the autonomous power supply unit (BEA): in its place is a mini-toilet with a shower. By removing half of the shelves above the left compartment of the BEA, we get space for a gas stove with 1-2 burners and a small cutting table. The BEA compartment itself is purposely designed for gardening tools, planting material, etc., with access also from the outside, through a wide hatch. In addition, communication equipment shelters have side windows, which cannot be said about all military shelters. Chalet means hut, but what changes the meaning of this word has undergone with the development of architecture is another matter. The country hut house is almost as durable as a kung, because... its load-bearing trusses are triangular. A small hut house (up to approximately 4x6 m) can be placed on a shallow foundation on any soil except excessively heaving soil. A hut house requires 1.5-2 times less materials than a bungalow or frame house, and it is easier to build it without experience and with a minimal set of tools. The hut house has one more advantage, inherited from its ancestors: it fits perfectly with almost any decoration into any landscape, see fig.: There are few disadvantages to the chalet house. The hut house retains all its advantages up to a size of approx. 6x9 m, then it becomes more complex and material-intensive than traditional ones. Even in a small hut house, one of the sleeping places has to be equipped in the attic, where you have to climb a vertical ladder, that’s all. In America and Canada, single-occupancy hut houses are quite widespread - shelters for hunters, fishermen, beekeepers, seasonal tenants and sharecroppers (this is the same as the Soviet hectare owner, who remembers), left and center in the figure: Construction of a single house hut - shelter and a 3-bed country house But the hut house, only 3x3 m in plan, can also be a country house for 2-3 people, on the right. Heating costs in both cases are small, because the relative heat loss area of the hut house is smaller and it warms up faster due to more active air circulation. If your summer cottage is habitable from the first warmth of spring until the winter cold, then a hut house is optimal for you. After the kung, if you manage to buy it, who knows, they know the real price of the kung. The construction of a hut house measuring up to 6x4 m in plan is carried out step by step. in this way (this is the so-called airship technology developed by the Germans to build their zeppelins): The hut house will be strong enough and durable only if the work on its construction is carried out in the specified sequence. This is probably the reason that few people build hut houses - it’s easier to work on the principle of “take more, throw further.” Drawings of a hut house 3x3 m for two or three are given in the figure: The inset at the top left shows the design of facade frames for a house up to 4x6 m. The material, like the intermediate frames, is 150x75 timber. Firstly, on facade frames, 2 ties are added to the tie (intermediate frames without them). Secondly, instead of a ridge girder, a ridge beam of the same cross-section is used. Thirdly, the frames, except at the corners, are fastened with middle and top strapping (longitudinal stiffening links) made of the same timber. Longitudinal and transverse connections are connected by a half-tree insert. Those. Using the example of a 4x6 m house, you can already see how the complexity of construction and the material consumption of a hut house increase with its size. Note: On the bottom screed, 2 more ends of the 100x75 timber are visible on the sides of the window. The internal partitions rest on them. The door frame on the other façade extends up to the tightening and is made of 75x150 timber; The lower screed of this facade is split. If the house does not have a basement, the window frame is made in a similar way. In the general concept, a bungalow is an unheated one-room country house with an extensive covered veranda, which is structurally integral to it. For a weekend summer cottage in fairly warm regions, the “generally accepted” bungalow house is optimal, because... spacious, well ventilated, not overheated by the Sun, and the construction is no more complicated than a frame house, but less material-intensive. However, little is known to construction specialists outside the tropics these days that bungalows are also a type of construction technology. The hut-bungalows built on it (another name is hakale) can still be found in the forest wilds of Russia, the northern United States and all of Canada. Some of them are over 200 years old, but most of them are still suitable for habitation. The house, built using bungalow technology, is easily recognizable by its 2-layer cladding made of vertical boards; the outer row is intermittent, see fig. on right. The bungalow as a wooden construction technology combines elements of half-timbered and frame structures with working cladding. Compared to both, bungalow technology has a trace. advantages: The disadvantages of construction using bungalow technology are, firstly, increased requirements for the experience and accuracy of the worker (see below). Secondly, there is some complexity in the design of the openings: the outer cladding boards need to be cut in place to fit the platbands, otherwise pockets will form - moisture traps. Bungalows as shelter houses are generally more popular than hut houses due to their better habitability. In a bungalow, you don’t have to climb up to sleep and stick out to eat lunch. The structure of a bungalow-type shelter house is shown in the figure: Drawings of a mini bungalow house - shelter The foundation, of course, is not necessarily a strip foundation (in this case, a non-buried strip foundation, NZLF), but any one suitable for local conditions. If it is columnar or pile, then you need 12 supports: 3 on the sides along the veranda and 4 (under each vertical post) on the others. This house can be extended up to 3-3.5 m in length. Then, if you do not extend it accordingly. veranda, you can fence off the toilet, and the attic in any case remains free for property and supplies. A “real” bungalow for outdoor recreation measuring 4x5.875 m in plan is, of course, more complex (see next figure), just like a frame house (see below). There is no attic (this is a characteristic feature of “real” recreational bungalows). The requirements for the foundation are the same, but for soils up to and including medium heaving; prev This option also works well on heavily heaving soils. The main features of the bungalow as a construction technology are indicated above. In addition: the power frame is assembled from timber from 150x150 without jibs. Yes Yes! The rigidity of the structure is provided by cladding made of vertical boards. Plywood and OSB are of little use because... Under each joint of the sheets, backing posts and lengths are needed. Bungalow construction diagrams are shown in the figure: The rafter floor structures are not shown, they are ordinary. Please note, on the left in the figure: the triple corners of the frame are assembled by cutting into half a tree and into a tenon, and the tenons of the racks are located on the inside of the corners. This is an indispensable condition for the strength of the structure: the elements of the load-bearing frame must cling to each other at the corners without steel fasteners. Although it is necessary, see the corner reinforcement diagram in the center of Fig. The use of steel corners, overlays and other innovations in this case is unacceptable! You have to pay for the Old Testament “stupidity” with labor. The sheathing boards need to be oriented with “humps” (convexities of the annual layers) as shown on the right in the figure: internal inward, external outward. The outer boards should be slightly narrower than the inner ones, then in the process of warping the wood the sheathing will compact and compress the frame. With any other arrangement of the “humps” it will split and the whole house will weaken. All boards are attached to the frame along the short (end) edges with triplets (not pairs!) of nails or self-tapping screws. The edge boards are also attached along the long edges to the corner posts with the same fasteners in a row or in a snake (zigzag) with a pitch of 100-120 mm. The outer boards are attached to the inner boards along the short edges with pairs of fasteners; along the long ones - in a row with the same step. Assembling the bungalow's load-bearing frame is a very important stage of work. And labor-intensive, because You can’t hammer in staples with a carpenter’s hammer, and you can’t tighten 12x300 self-tapping screws with a screwdriver. In old designs, instead of self-tapping screws, oak dowels were installed using wedging. The frame of the house is assembled using bungalow technology. order: A frame mini-house does not have any special features compared to a large residential one; a diagram of its device is shown in Fig.: The construction procedure is described in detail and with illustrations in many sources. You can also watch a video about the construction of a “classic” frame house 6x4 m:
The complexity and cost of building a frame house is higher than all those described above. The attention, knowledge and accuracy required to build a hut and bungalow do not count: they do not require costs and do not take up time. But the frame mini-house also has an undeniable advantage: its simple shape with vertical walls and smooth cladding make it suitable for a wide variety of design delights, see fig. Also, the design of a frame house is very flexible. On the one hand, it forgives the rather serious mistakes of novice builders. On the other hand, it gives creative amateurs some scope for experimentation. See, for example, a video about building a small frame shelter house:
To this story we only need to add that the viewers’ comments about insulation are fair. Since it is impossible to “drive” the dew point out once and for all, and there are no massive walls where it could “walk”, insulating materials in such structures must be used that do not allow condensation to form in the insulation layer and further inside: EPS or cellulose insulation (ecowool) . The roof beam (all as it is, its supporting structure) of a small house also has a peculiarity. It is determined by its small size, and, as a consequence, by the excessive rigidity of the structure, as well as the lack of a load-bearing partition (internal capital wall) in it (excuse the bureaucracy). To support the latter, a fully connected foundation is required; at a minimum - a tape of normal depth. Rafter structures (in this case, this is the same roof crossbar) are, as you know, hanging (pos. 1a in the figure) and layered (pos. 1b): In the first, the truss rack rests on a transverse beam-screed, and in the layered version on a load-bearing partition; split screed. It is technically possible to make a load-bearing partition in a small house, but it is not justified in any sense, including ergonomic - habitability. Therefore, the trusses of small houses are made only hanging. As for the methods of assembling the truss structure of a small house, they can be any of the known poses. 3 and 4. Choose whatever you like based on your skill, availability of materials and desire. The minimum standard size of boards for a house up to 6x6 m is 40x130, ridge beams - 100x75 and mauerlat - from 150x75. In a bungalow house and a frame mauerlat, the timber of the top frame can serve directly. We will send the material to you by e-mail Many residents of megacities dream of purchasing a plot of land and a comfortable house outside the city, albeit a small one. In some cases, it is easier and cheaper to build a house yourself than to buy a ready-made one. Projects of country houses for 6 acres will help you make the right choice, photos of which are presented in large numbers in our review. It is believed that building a house is very difficult. But some projects of country houses are distinguished by their extraordinary simplicity. Comfortable small-sized country house To create a good-quality and durable building, you need to select a high-quality design for a country house for 6 acres. Photos of the best options can be seen in the interior. Before choosing, you should decide on the materials and a convenient place for the future structure. First of all, you need to decide whether the building will be intended only for summer living or whether it will be a capital country house with your own hands. Projects, photos and recommendations for choosing a suitable structure can be found in this material. A functional and comfortable home must meet certain requirements: A wide range of different materials can be used for the construction of country houses. The most commonly used options are: For those who do not want to spend a lot of time on construction work, the best option may be an inexpensive turnkey country house. Prices for structures can be seen in a special catalog of the selected construction organization. A suitable option can be selected to suit any budget. The cost of the structure is influenced by the type of structure, material and dimensions of the structure. A house measuring 5*5 m made of clapboard and timber will cost about 100 thousand rubles. A structure with a porch and a canopy or veranda will require an investment of a larger amount, more than 200 thousand rubles. Related article: Features of installation work depend on the choice of specific material. A timber structure has many positive qualities. Such material is treated with stain and various protective compounds. A lightweight version of the foundation can be used for the structure. In this case, the roof can be gable. Due to the optimal weight of timber structures, the bases can be used uncomplicated and light. The following options are worth considering: It is laid between the wood and the foundation. You can apply a layer of roofing felt. Then the floor beams or joists are installed. Expert's point of view Dmitry Kholodok Technical director of the repair and construction company "ILASSTROY" “If the dimensions of the building are more than 6*6 meters, then additional support will be required for the floor beams. In this case, the foundation is supplied not only under the external walls, but also under columns and partitions, which bear a large load.” Related article: The timber is laid in a certain way. In the corner parts, the ends should be installed in a checkerboard pattern. During installation, jute is used, which ensures a tight fit of the joints. Installation of timber on dowels is used. These are vertical rods that connect 2-3 crowns. The dowels are driven into pre-drilled holes. These elements are made from steel rods or wood. Ceiling beams are mounted on the upper crowns. After installing the ceiling beams, special wooden gables can be installed. The following types of roofing are often used for timber houses: An unedged board is used as a sheathing structure under the roof. The main material used is tile material or ondulin. A waterproofing layer is installed under the roof. The dacha building is divided into two parts. More than 70% goes to living space, and the remaining area contains a bathroom and storage room. To insulate the building, mineral wool and vapor barrier are used. Linoleum can be used as flooring, and lining or plasterboard can be used for interior decoration. When using plasterboard for cladding, it is worth making a stronger foundation. When living in a house for a year, you need to take care of heating. The water heating system and design with. Save time: selected articles delivered to your inbox every week People acquire dachas in different ways - they inherit them, buy plots with a house and remodel or complete them for themselves, or buy land in an almost open field and begin to develop virgin lands. One of our craftsmen, who decided to join country life, was puzzled by just such a process. And since the most effective way to save money is to do it yourself, that’s exactly what he did, starting small - with a summer house in the country “for the first time.” Gonzik1 Last year I purchased a plot of land in a field (like a new holiday village). The poles were installed, electricity was supplied to the site (it took two months to complete the paperwork), a panel was installed on the pole with a meter, a machine and an outlet. This year, having saved up some money, I began construction. I decided to do everything myself, because it’s cheaper and more reliable. DIY country house project The craftsman created the dacha construction project with his own hands over the winter; according to his idea, this is the first module, to which he will later attach another one, combining both parts into a solid structure. Using a special program, I made a drawing that allowed me to accurately calculate the required amount of building materials. Foundation Since the house is lightweight, using frame technology and on one floor, Gonzik1 gave preference to a columnar foundation made of special concrete blocks (20x20x40 cm). His choice was also influenced by the low groundwater level (GWL) at the dacha and the excellent condition of similar foundations under neighboring buildings. Depending on the level, I used one or two blocks per pillar - removed the fertile layer, added a sand cushion, and laid the blocks. The plane was maintained using a hydraulic level. According to the craftsman, he appreciated this simple tool - it’s cheap and the measurement accuracy is excellent. The pillars were covered with roofing felt for waterproofing. With the help of relatives, the foundation was ready in three days. Water supply There is no place for a central water supply in the field, so the problem of water supply is a personal matter for each summer resident. Our craftsman initially planned to drill a well. Test drilling at thirty-six meters was unsuccessful - dense black clay came out instead of water. The drillers reported that only an artesian well about ninety meters long would help, and they announced an exorbitant price. Gonzik1 I got upset, imagining the scale of the problem, and decided to dig a well, as the foreseeable future has shown - the decision is the right one. Three days of work, ten rings - a column of water for one and a half rings, restored in an hour and a half. Box The strapping is two-layer - at the bottom there is a board 100x50 mm, at the top - 100x40 mm, impregnated with fire and biological protection, the strapping elements were connected to each other with nails (100 and 120 mm). The strapping was laid on top of the roofing felt and secured to the posts with anchors. All frame posts were also assembled from 100x40 mm boards with nails; the walls were raised directly on site using temporary jibs. They collected only the ridge on the ground, then lifted it onto the roof. This stage took another four days. The next thing was to install the rafters, wind boards, install the wind protection, and put the counter batten and sheathing on top. Our craftsman chose metal tiles as the roofing covering. Gonzik1 I read that no matter which side the sheets are laid on, they are often laid from left to right. It turned out, no, the tiles are laid from right to left, otherwise the next sheet will have to be placed under the previous one, which is extremely inconvenient, especially when installing alone. The weather was not very good, it was drizzling, there was wind, it moved along the roof like a cat, trying to cling to the sheathing with its feet. All twelve sheets of tiles (115x350 cm) were laid in half a day. After the tiles, we got to the grounding, due to which the floor joists were not completely laid. Gonzik1 I used a corner 50x50x4 mm, a connection from a metal strip 40x4 mm, plus a piece of self-supporting insulated wire (SIP). Next, we covered the entire structure with a protective membrane, installed a door, laid floorboards on the terrace, and began covering the façade with imitation timber. The cash was immediately treated with protective impregnation. During the work, the craftsman made adjustments to the project - he made a third window, so there will be more light, and the view from the window is attractive. Interior work With the end of the holidays, the construction process slowed down as much as possible, since free weekends did not occur every week, but it continued. I finished with the floor - rough on OSB joists, a windproof membrane on top, stone wool slabs between the joists, sheathing, and OSB again on it. Linoleum is assumed to be the finishing coating. The house also got another window. I brought electricity into the house, insulated the perimeter with stone wool, a vapor barrier on top and clapboard as cladding. The finishing process continued according to the same algorithm; contrasting trim on the window openings added decorative value to the house. All internal walls will be covered with clapboard. Gonzik1 There are no stoves planned, the house is for seasonal use - spring, summer, autumn. I plan to install electric convectors, I have no problems with electricity there, three phases, new substation, 15 kW per site. For all those interested, the craftsman posted a calculation of materials (all used boards are 6 meters long): Taking into account independent construction and finishing, the estimate turned out to be quite budgetary. Gonzik1 I’m still planning to install electrical wiring around the house, I think I’ll spend 8-10 thousand. I don’t give the cost of nails, screws, staples for a stapler, etc., etc., because I no longer remember how much I purchased. Total: about 165,000 rubles. For another short but fruitful vacation - I finished the electrical work, finished the interior paneling and painting, made a set for the kitchen, completed the terrace. I laid a 100x40 mm board on the terrace, took it unplaned, processed it with an electric planer, and then covered it with impregnation in two layers. Over the past winter, everything was in place, nothing moved, did not dry out or warp. The craftsman has plans to complete the second block, but this test of the pen is excellent - an excellent summer house for a family holiday. The dream of metropolitan residents is a beautiful house outside the city, where you can escape from the hustle and bustle of the city. But not everyone’s dreams come true; it seems that a country house is complicated, expensive, and time-consuming. In fact, building a country house with your own hands is quite simple. Choosing a location for a future country house is not the time for hasty decisions, because there is not that much space. Thoughtful, competent planning will help you use every piece of land as efficiently as possible. Even though this is your land, you will have to fulfill a number of requirements, maintaining a minimum distance: We are not considering the option of a low-lying area - water will accumulate there. Optimally - the highest place on the site in its northern (northwestern) part. For construction, timber from various types of wood is used: linden, larch, pine. Natural wood is the most environmentally friendly building material. Wooden houses create a unique atmosphere that has a beneficial effect on the physical health and emotional state of people. The life-giving aroma of the forest is incomparable. Houses made of timber do not need finishing: natural wood looks aesthetically pleasing and gives the room a special charm, very suitable for the country spirit. The undeniable advantages of a house made of timber: An inexpensive and reliable stone for a country house - foam concrete - a building material made in the form of blocks of cellular concrete. Composition: cement, sand, water and foaming agent. This is the most inexpensive way to build a country house made of stone. Foam concrete blocks are not distinguished by their aesthetic appearance, but their surface is easy to process and decorate. Advantages of a foam concrete house: An alternative to a house made of foam concrete is a country house made of brick or natural stone. The most durable and reliable material, which is not afraid of almost any natural phenomena and other influences of a mechanical or chemical nature. The main disadvantage is the high cost of the material itself and construction work. Building a brick or stone house will require a lot of time. Here you cannot do without a reliable monolithic foundation. Its construction is possible only with the use of special equipment. It will take more than a month to lay the foundation and dry the concrete. Only after this can construction continue. There is also a significant disadvantage in the operation of a stone house. Its interior takes a long time to warm up, especially if it was left unheated for some time or was heated to a minimum. Therefore, a stone country house is not the best option for those who use it extremely rarely in winter. Many people like to get a country house in just a few days. After all, to do this, you just need to choose the building project you like, and then sign the agreement. The “designer” of your house is delivered to your site by the contractor in a semi-assembled form. The final stages of assembly are carried out as quickly as possible. They weigh quite a bit. This means that you can use a pile type of foundation. These types of houses are very attractive and not expensive. The disadvantage of this structure is that you can only use the country house in the warm season. And no options for insulation or heating systems will help cope with frost and retain heat. In addition, you will not feel very good in them in the sultry heat, since the house gets very hot in the sun and it is simply unbearable to be inside. In this case, you will definitely need to install a ventilation system or air conditioning. Yes, such house options are inexpensive, but their operation will cost a lot! Therefore, think carefully about what type of material you should choose to make your country house practical, reliable and beautiful! Progress does not stand still, and with the development of technology, the requirements for homes are also growing. Country houses in the high-tech style have become very popular recently. The number of variations, types of installation and facade will not leave indifferent many who want to build their own home. Modern fashion trends are gradually making their way into construction. Projects of country houses in the high-tech style are chosen only by those people who want to be imbued with the spirit of modernity and experience technological progress for themselves. These houses combine maximum functionality and living space well. Such buildings became most popular in Europe. The EU countries were the legislators of this architectural trend. All details comply with the principles of minimalism. It’s not for nothing that high-tech is considered technical minimalism. There are no flashy or overly bright colors in such a structure. All forms are strict, restrained and sometimes smooth. The facade immediately catches the eye. Main materials: glass, plastic, wood, metal. In percentage terms, wood predominates.
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Foundation
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