Phased construction of a house from a bar. Stages of building a house from a bar Stages of work a house from a log

Before building your log house, it is worth getting acquainted with the experience of building houses by others. Construction is influenced by many factors: the season and weather, the experience of builders and subcontractors, the decency of suppliers and the moisture content of wood.

Building a log house step by step

A typical sequence for building a log house (log house) includes the following steps:

Land clearing and earthworks

• On the purchased site, you need to organize the entrance to the site, as well as the entrance to it;
• If necessary, bring water to the site for technical needs;
• Determine the place of future storage of material;
• Remove extra trees as needed;
• Determine the place of construction of the house;
• Remove the top layer of soil and store it for reuse;
• When planning a basement, dig a foundation pit for it;
• Install a septic tank on the site for the house and for rainwater.

All of the above work can be attributed to the preparatory. This does not mean that they are secondary. Proper storage of material will allow you to effectively organize construction works, and the preparation of the construction site, in general, is of fundamental importance. It is better to close the issue with septic tanks immediately. It will be clear how to lead sewer pipes and storm sewer pipes.

Foundation construction

The foundation, the foundation of any home. The foundation for a log house is especially important. This is due to its heaviness.

• Set the corners of the foundation. Invite a surveyor or use professional equipment to set the corners.
• Mark out the foundation.

We assume the device of the most suitable foundation for a log house is a strip foundation.

The marking is done with marking cords along the thickness of the foundation. Marking pegs are driven into the ground with an indent from the real corners of the foundation. This will allow you to dig a foundation pit without removing the markup.

• At the bottom of the pit we lay a pillow of crushed stone and sand.
• In the finished pit we make formwork. We knock down the formwork panels separately and install them in the pit according to the marking. We firmly burst and support the formwork. You can immediately insulate the formwork with polystyrene boards.
• Inside the formwork we lay the "skeleton" of the reinforcement.
• We fill the formwork with concrete.
• Level the top of the foundation. This will make further construction easier.
• We cover the flooded foundation from rain and wind.

Plinth installation

• A layer of waterproofing is laid on the foundation that has gained strength (28 days).
• Several rows of a red brick base are laid on top (it does not bend).
• The formwork is removed. Waterproofing and thermal insulation of the foundation is done from the outer and inner sides (if the formwork was not insulated).

If necessary, for additional support of the floor beams, support posts are made under the beams. The support is made of concrete on a cushion of crushed stone and sand, with a plinth of two rows of bricks. It is important to clearly measure the upper level of the support.

Storm sewer device

• According to the finished foundation, the soil is backfilled and the foundation is poured from the outside;
• In the backfilled soil, trenches are dripped (again) under the storm and drain sewers of the house. A sand cushion is made in the trench. Storm sewers run around the house with rain drains in the corners. Observing the slope of the pipes, the sewerage is led to the installed septic tanks.

• We complete everything engineering work on the sewer house-septic tank. We fall asleep trenches with pipes.
• If planned, we make a portable veranda columnar foundation for the veranda. Do not forget about the garage, or rather a place for a garage.

Preparation for the reception of the log house

• Check with the supplier for exact delivery times. Explain the situation with unloading work and unloading equipment.
• Confirm payment terms for materials and delivery.
• Check and prepare paid checks if required.
• Prepare a place and a canopy (room) for storing material.
• Prepare the entrance to the site for the construction of a log house.
• Assemble equipment for unloading logs.

Receiving and unloading material

• Accept the material according to the consignment note of the basic configuration of the log house;
• Control the unloading of material to the right place.
• Draw up an act of understaffing (if any).

Hiring construction workers

If you do not build a house with your own hands, find a team of builders and conclude a work contract with them.

Prepare for construction

Prepare construction manuals, videos and slide presentations.

Prepare all the telephone numbers of the nearest technical, emergency, medical, fire assistance. Keep them handy and let the workers know.

Installation of the first crown

On the waterproofing of the basement, to distribute the load, an edged board, well coated with bitumen, is laid. On it, according to the assembly scheme, the first crown of the house is laid. Depends on his level proper construction the whole house.

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Together with the crown of the first floor, we lay the floor beams. An unedged floorboard is laid on them for walking inside the log house.

Log wall laying

• Laying the walls of a log house depends on the design of the log house and the type of interlock.
• Russian felling houses do not require adjustment. The Canadian bowl is cut in place.
• Between the crowns we put a heater (jute or moss).
• Neighboring crowns of the log house are fastened with vertical studs. Better square.

Installation of doors and windows

Upon reaching the level of the windows, cuts are made under the windows and doors. Cuts are made for each log. For structural strength in the middle of the opening, a solid log is left Photo. After assembling the entire frame, these logs are sawn out.

Often, cuts for windows and doors are made completely. In this case, the ends of the cuts are immediately fastened with an edged board on a nail under the insulation.

Completion of first floor walls

• Upon completion of the first floor, ceiling beams are installed. They will be the floor beams of the second floor.
• Beams are placed in accordance with the design of the house.

Installation of the second floor

We are looking at the construction of a small log house, so we think that there is no second floor. If he was, he was going to the project. A technical floor is laid on the floor beams.

Installation of gables

If there is no second floor, then not floor beams are laid on the last crown of the first floor, but wedding beams, on which rafter system.

Some log cabins are equipped with log gables. They need to be assembled before installing the truss system.

truss system

• The truss system is included in the project of the house. The usual roof of a log house is a gable truss system. We collect it according to the project or separate documents.
• The rafters are sheathed with a non-edged board in increments of 20 cm.
• Do not forget about skylights and in the roof we do support structures to install them.
• Do not forget about the chimney (if any).
• We close the roof with roofing material according to the technology.

Completion of construction

• In a log house there is such a thing as shrinkage and shrinkage. After shrinkage of the house, manual caulking of the house is done, internal partitions and all other work on finishing and arranging the log house are done after shrinkage is over.
• Do not forget to protect the log house with an antiseptic, from rotting and bugs.

Outcome

This is the most common routing, showing the construction of a log house step by step. And although it cannot show all the nuances of construction, the overall picture is clear.

Nine stages of building a wooden house

I propose to start by dividing everything that is connected with the process of building a wooden house into separate components - the fact is that all construction processes can be divided into nine stages.

Further, in this section, we will try to describe the components and features of each stage that are important in our opinion, focusing the attention of the future homeowner on interesting nuances and, of course, give our recommendations.

Choosing a site for a house

I am sure that every future homeowner will have to make a choice land plot according to many criteria. These criteria can differ significantly, but let's try to systematize the most important ones. In addition to, of course, the perspective that opens from the land, the slope, the absence of noise and silence, the presence of trees or shrubs - when choosing a site for construction, you should carefully study the type of soil of the site and access roads. The road and place for storage during construction will be a significant component in the organization of work. Good access roads can simplify the delivery and unloading of the house kit and building materials. They will not spoil your mood during trips to the site during the rainy months. In addition, good roads will bring significant time and budget savings in construction work.

The type of soil on the site can also significantly reduce your costs for the foundation and drainage from the house. Ideally - if the soil on the site is sandy - in this case, you can use an inexpensive strip shallowly buried foundation. In other cases, the design must be selected. It will be necessary to take into account the characteristics of the soil and the level ground water Location on. In addition, the type of soil and groundwater affect the plantings on the site. For example, with a low location of groundwater, it will be easier to form a garden of fruit trees and stone fruits. Our recommendation is to locate the house in a higher part of the site, and choose a site that is not too low in relation to the neighboring ones.

Choosing a project for a future wooden house

With a huge variety of projects that are offered today on sites, it is important to understand - not all projects can be built. Our first recommendation - if you have chosen a project - you should see this house in its built form. Having the opportunity to measure the project for yourself is quite important when determining the design solution for your home. But, of course, not all cottages can look as interesting as they looked on the site or on paper. Why is that? Because so many projects of wooden houses were developed in the 90s - in those days, the culture and technological solutions for building houses (more than the well-known summer cottage size of 6 × 6 meters) were formed. Not all projects were thought out From and To. In many, there was no sense in the planning decision and the nodes were not thought out. Structural interfaces, such as roofing and floor beams, were not sufficiently reliable, which created problems for future homeowners. Perhaps our opponent will say that you can build anything. Maybe... but at what cost? The cost of each ill-conceived decision in the construction of a house, including wood, is very high. Choose carefully. Do not hurry. You can always contact this independent specialist for the most objective assessment of the quality of each project. For our part, we offer you our planning solutions. You can evaluate each of them by visiting the built house. We hope that your choice of project will be the most best solution for your family.

Foundation construction

Everyone knows The foundation is the foundation of any home.. And you certainly need a good solid foundation. In practice, the reliability of the foundation directly depends on several components: Who is doing? How does? What materials does it use?

You and I live in Russia and, of course, we notice that even in Moscow, roads and sidewalks are not ideal. The first question is who are the contractors?

We recommend that you choose a reliable and responsible contractor for the installation of the foundation of your house, and not a group of guest workers from the nearest construction market in the Moscow region. Involving an experienced foreman in the work will give confidence in the quality. Knowledge by workers of technological processes when pouring the foundation will eliminate the need to correct errors that will inevitably arise when accessing the services of guest workers who will tell you that "they can do everything." Everything as a whole will bring you savings and time, and Money. It will relieve you of unnecessary stress and tension for the nervous system.

The emphasis during the installation of the foundation must also be made on point 3 - “what it is made of”. The use of high-quality finished concrete mix of a high brand and a connected powerful reinforcing cage, strong, exactly the size of the mounted formwork - are also necessary components of a reliable and strong foundation for your wooden house. We recommend using ready-mixed concrete of classes not lower than B-17.5. In the construction of our houses, we use only B-22.5 concrete. According to the old Soviet classification system, it corresponds to the M-300 concrete grade. At the same time, the installation of the lower crown of the house on such a reliable foundation can be done within 5-10 days after pouring concrete into the formwork.

Assembling the box at home

Imagine that the foundation of your house is already ready. After that, and before the installation of the first crown, waterproofing work must be carried out. A special insulating material is laid on the surface of the foundation - reinforced waterproofing. This is a rolled material, which, based on frost-resistant bituminous mastic, is applied to a special reinforcing fabric. The material prevents the penetration of moisture into the lower crown.

Next, the installation of the house kit begins. It starts from the lower crown of the house. It, in turn, consists of a half crown and a crown covering it. It is important to carefully check the axial dimensions of the house and diagonals. The geometry of the lower crown must be perfect, as this is the basis of the geometry of the future house. Therefore, dimensions are checked with special care. As in the proverb: Seven times measure cut once.

Many of you will face a difficult choice - What material is better to choose for the walls of a wooden house? What section of a log or beam is better to use? What interventional insulation is preferable to use when assembling a box at home? Some consider it a sufficient and economically reasonable option - using a log diameter of 200 mm or 220 mm or a beam with a section of 145 mm or 160 mm. Other prospective homeowners believe that wooden house, built from a natural log of such diameters, will not be warm enough and order a larger material for the walls of the house - a log with a diameter of 280 mm or even 300 mm or a beam with a thickness of 240 mm or 280 mm. Which of them is right?

Let's hear the opinion on this issue from experts in wooden housing construction and ask for recommendations from our engineers. Of course, both the size of the log diameter and the thickness glued laminated timber significantly affect the quality and comfort of a wooden house. This directly affects how energy efficient and warm your home will be. At the same time, it is impossible to discard cases when the crooked hands of covens or random builders made a house even from a log with a section of 260 mm cold. Rather, even so that a house built from a diameter of 200 mm turned out to be of better quality and warmer.

According to experts, it is more important that when selecting raw materials for the manufacture of logs with a diameter of 280-300 mm, a sawlog of a larger section is used. And for a diameter of 200-220 mm - on the contrary, a younger forest. The result is an older sawlog with a stronger, more stable structure and, of course, a much thicker layer of solid wood. We get the desired effect - a large-diameter natural log has practically no spatial deformations and cracks less. The thick log has a slight shrinkage. It does not require difficult adjustment during installation. This way you end up with a different, higher build quality. The knots and joints will be tight even after the installation of the house kit and, after a while, after the shrinkage of the assembled box. The conclusion of the experts is that a house made of logs of large diameter will not only be warmer, but also of better quality. It must be taken into account that the effect of increasing the thickness of the wall material will be higher when using the northern forest and less significant when using wood from the regions neighboring Moscow.

The economic component is certainly not the last one when making an important decision on the cross section of the wall material. But think a few times - in fact, the difference of 200-300 thousand rubles in the total construction budget is less than 5%. Taking into account the future costs of heating the house, this difference will return to your pocket, and the advantages of a large diameter will always be with you and - completely free of charge.

An important component during the installation of the house kit are floor beams, floor beams and rafters. Here, too, the cross-section of building parts is important. We recommend using timber with a cross section of at least 200 mm. It is better to use rafters with a section of at least 200 × 50 mm. At our facilities, as an option, we offer our Customers the installation of these elements from Siberian larch.

During laying, the pitch of the rafters and beams should not be more than 60 cm. Such a distance between the load-bearing elements of the house's structures - beams and rafters, makes it possible to lay heat or soundproof boards efficiently and tightly.

When installing a house, it is worth looking ahead and foreseeing the measures that are indispensable for creating a comfortable home. What is meant? We mean the acoustic comfort inside the house and one more important point- blowing through the walls. Many, including builders wooden houses they naively believe that the use of conventional interventional gasket materials will not create problems. They hope that they will "work" ... In fact, the following is obtained - the details of the walls of a wooden house - whether it be a log, glued or a simple profiled beam - undergo deformations and change size a little. In this case, the following happens: 1. Gaps appear between the crowns, including this happens in glued beams. 2. Details begin to breathe and creak.

There is no time for acoustic comfort - any movement in one part of the house is transmitted to other rooms. This is especially true of interfloor ceilings and internal walls of the attic. How to protect yourself from this? Experts in wooden housing construction recommend using only proven interventional heaters and seals. Our company uses such material. It's called Klimalan. The material is produced in Germany based on sheep wool, which has long been known as excellent thermal insulation and very effective sound insulation. Mezhventsovy heater "Klimalan" the highest class in terms of sound insulation and noise suppression is European Class A. Almost all of our customers have chosen this material to insulate the walls of their wooden houses.

Contour finish

The first stage of finishing a wooden house - what we call contour finishing - will begin with several types preparatory work. This is, first of all, grinding the surfaces of the outer walls of the wooden one - without this, high-quality painting of the walls from the outside is impossible, then the ideal plane of the truss structure of the house is removed and it is prepared for the subsequent installation of insulation. This is followed by the finishing of cornices and overhangs of the protruding parts of the roof, then the installation of not the main, but the subfloor with its preliminary treatment with antiseptic compounds.

It is worth not to lose sight of the high-quality insulation of the junction of the fronts and the truss structure. The heat loss through the roof will also depend on how well it is insulated.

After the preparatory measures are completed, important work begins, namely, the insulation of the truss structure, or, in short, the insulation of the roof. It is advisable to pay attention to the size of the releases of cornices and roof overhangs. It must be more than 70 centimeters. We have gone even further in our projects. We offer a basic package, in which the overhangs are already 900 mm from the wall axis, and as an option we offer roof extensions of 1,200 and 1,500 mm. This is a real chalet. The building material that we use for finishing the roof overhangs is a thick dry finishing board. We do not recommend using any kind of plastic spotlights. The fact is that a wooden house (including glued laminated timber) will “breathe” and the plastic “lining” will quickly lose its shape. Keep in mind that the roofing material must be sufficient and not thin in section. This will protect the structure with small deformations and drying out.

Our recommendation is to use slab rather than roll insulation. Among them: Rockwool and Paroc. For mounting the top membrane film, it is better to use professional building films. Dörken films or Tyvek AirGuard® can be used, Tyvek® Soft is also suitable. The use of Dörken foils will help reduce heat loss through your roof. When the laying of the insulation is completed, you can begin the installation of the roof and the drainage system of the wooden house. In parallel with the installation of the roof, work can also be carried out to prepare for the installation of windows and external doors - the installation of fire monitors on door and window openings. In parallel, the installation of internal frame partitions is underway.

The final part of the contour finishing stage is priming and painting the walls of the house from the outside. For the past 7 years, our company has been using materials for priming and painting houses, which are produced by the German company Remmers. In accordance with the design decisions and the greater attractiveness of the facades of a wooden house, the outer walls and the finishing of the roof hemming and cornices are painted in contrastingly different colors. When the house is painted and the scaffolding is dismantled, the exterior finishing stage of the wooden house is almost completed. It remains for us to install window blocks, entrance doors and mount decorative trim elements on them.

Internal communications

Immediately after the completion of contour finishing, it becomes possible to mount engineering networks and communications inside a wooden house and connect them to external networks. We recommend that you make the necessary preparation for this stage in advance. At a minimum, make a sketch of the arrangement of furniture and plumbing fixtures, if you want to approach the issue of installing engineering with all seriousness and how to think about what and where will be located, a project will be needed. We work with each of the customers individually and try to adapt the engineering solution to the specifics of a particular project as much as possible. It all starts with the interior and arrangement of furniture, layout of bathrooms, kitchen and arrangement of plumbing fixtures. Every detail is important, including the location of the sink, dishwasher and washing machine. It is important to determine how and in what way water will be supplied and sewage will be removed. What fuel the boiler will have to run on. Do you need a boiler or is a flow heater sufficient? We will offer you the best engineering solution for heating and power supply of your home. Mutual understanding with the Customer and certainty in the goals and objectives for a particular house will help speed up the installation of engineering networks.

Fine finishing - finishing of a wooden house

The installation of communications has been completed - you can now proceed to the fine finish. Selected materials and a very skilled team of finishers are what you need to successfully implement your interior design plans. We recommend that before starting this stage, drive and see the already built houses with a completed fine finish. This will give you a more complete idea of ​​the breadth of the choice of building materials and will allow you to determine your preferences. The choice of floor material, decorative boards for ceilings is difficult to make from pictures in magazines and on the website - deep immersion is required, and we provide this opportunity at our facilities. Another important component of this stage is the actual work itself. Installation and installation of various parts and trim elements: window sills, stairs, decorative corners and trims - everything requires care and painstaking attitude. And another important detail is to ensure the correct selection of material. The use of the right material and the skillful hands of builders-finishers are the basis of the quality and long service life of the interior of the house. Engineers and foremen of our company during a visit to the objects will advise you on the use of different materials for the fine finishing of your wooden house.

Come visit us, get acquainted with our work, visit our facilities, and we will build your home with skill and care!

No wet processes. This predetermines the potential all-season felling. And yet, given the time and other factors favorable for procurement, delivery (sometimes transcontinental!) And the safety of building materials, it is better to assemble a house during the period January to March.

Based on these considerations, all stages of construction are calculated. In this article they are presented in the form of a table. This step-by-step technological and time breakdown clearly demonstrates approximate chronology of the construction of the cottage. Let's start in June.

Optimal preparatory work scheduleand structures of a wooden log house

Comments and motivation

Geodetic survey of the site

With regard to the need for professional design and the choice between standard and individual projects, we talked about them in detail in the articles: January June. If there is a calendar plan, a schedule of payments for materials and work is drawn up. This makes it possible to calculate the dynamics of financing the entire construction of the facility. The estimate largely determines the strength and capabilities of the contracting parties. Comparison of the proposed estimates allows you to decide on the contractor.

The estimate largely determines the strength and capabilities of the contracting parties

After an understanding has been found with the contractor, i.e. after the contractor has defended his interests and you have agreed on a price - only then does he become your worker. He works, as his great professional experience tells him. However, be careful when choosing a contractor: you should beware of charlatans or demagogues who own construction vocabulary.

Beginning of July - end of September. Of course, you can build in any weather - it all depends on the budget. It is especially convenient to dig a pit in August, when the earth really dries up. It is also good to dig it in January, when the frozen soil does not crumble. However, such work will require other earth-moving equipment. And her work will cost many times more. On the other hand, in January there are a lot of free workers who demand correspondingly lower wages. This period is suitable for choosing the material that is optimal in terms of price and quality and calculating the schemes for its transportation.

October December. Since they are already ready, it becomes possible to install the system, and even partially put it into operation. There is a known case when water works were carried out immediately after the construction ground floor. That is, after laying the first crown, they were turned on.

Installing a floor heating system in a wooden house

This made it possible to heat the log house immediately as it was erected. Despite the autumn rains, the stacked logs dried out quickly, were white and clean. It is difficult to imagine a situation when carpenters are already building rafters, and it is dry inside a freshly cut house. Such synchronicity and interconnection of various stages is possible only with a flawlessly executed project when any spontaneous changes in the layout of the interior are a priori excluded. In this case, it does not matter when the underfloor heating pipes are above the coil. And why not before the installation of crowns?

True, such an idealistic docking of various technological stages has its price. It is equal to additional, previously not foreseen heating costs. This step required the "good" of the customer. And he, as you understand, having gone for it, did not lose.

In our market, which unites large online stores, you can choose everything that is required for installing underfloor heating or ready-made kits. Take a look at the section.

January March. After two weeks, work is arguing. And from the end of January, long, sunny and frosty days come. This is not November for you, when there are heavy rains and at 4 o'clock in the afternoon it is already getting dark. It is also convenient for both transport and a truck crane - the roads are open and there is no need to knead the dirt on the site. On frozen ground, you can easily drive to any point on the construction site.

January March. Cutting and installation of a wooden frame

Advice: it is advisable to rent a crane for a day with an interval of 2-3 days. This is quite enough to lift the required number of logs to the place of their felling and not disturb the rhythm of construction. But such an approach is justified in the presence of a sufficient number of cutters.

As always, along with the advantages, there are also disadvantages. These include freezing of pneumatic tools degrading overall performance. If the log house is delivered, and the heating is not turned on, then the object must be conserved.

If the log house is delivered, and the heating is not turned on, then the object must be preserved

April. At this time, there is always 3 weeks of sunny weather to do. At least put rafters and anti-condensation film. It will completely protect the structure from the May rains. Moreover, with the appearance of the roof, the moisture content of the logs begins to decrease even without forced heating.

In April there are always 3 weeks of sunny weather to make the roof

If the roof structure is of a complex profile (not gable, which can shrink parts of different sizes), then it is advisable to put a temporary inexpensive one until the house completely shrinks. And after it, put an expensive finish coat. In this case, it has the advantage that it does not shrink, and the final version of the roof can be built immediately.

The fundamental question of building a log house– the right drying technology. In modern terms, it is required to monitor the dynamics of drying and decide "in place": whether the log house dries well or badly. For example, in winter, when window openings are open, the outer surface of the log house begins to weather. It dries up, and the imperfections of the wood (such as blue, etc.) will no longer appear. Here it is necessary to decide on the spot whether to close the windows or open them for ventilation.

The intensity of drying depends, of course, on its conditions. If there is a river with inevitable fogs near the house, then it is useless to open the windows. It requires forced drying. However, if your house is on a hill, blown by everyone, then the log house will dry out in 3 months. Only for this you need to open all the openings. It is at such decisive moments that the experience of the contractor, a competent organizer of the entire technological process, is especially manifested.

May-August. After the appearance of a reliable roof over your head civil works smoothly transition to, which are performed in parallel with the installation of all and their adjustment.

And another year… Turnkey delivery is carried out after finishing caulking, which is done after the logs have completely dried.

Fine caulking is performed after the logs have completely dried

If the diameter of the logs exceeds 40 cm, its natural drying can take up to 3 years. Although if you contact a specialized company, this period can be significantly reduced.

Can't it be faster?

Experience shows that the haste in the construction of a house usually occurs at the expense of the customer. In the literal and figurative sense. This is either a decrease in quality at the same price, or a significant increase in the cost of construction at the same quality. In any case, if construction is ahead of technological possibilities of wood how building material, then 2-3 years after the completion of construction, its revision will definitely be required.

We can talk about some axiom that the architects of wooden houses "profess". Its essence boils down to the truth that when building from wood, you can not rush, this material itself sets the pace of its high-quality processing.

Another thing is the organization of production, proven by experience, well-established logistics chains, knowledge of both traditional Russian hand-cutting and a complex of modern construction technologies. This is where the path lies to the exclusion of erroneous, irreparable decisions, delaying the construction of the cottage, transferring it to the category of long-term construction.

If, for the construction of his own house, the summer resident is ready to organize a small construction company, then, apparently, he is ready to complete the entire range of work in 2-4 years on his own. In any other case, it is better to seek help (moreover, timely) from a specialized industry company, which has dozens of built houses on its account. Especially when you can easily get acquainted with the quality of her work in a few years. Professionals will be able to provide the construction of your dream cottage strictly in accordance with the above schedule.

: where to start, what you need to pay attention to first of all when building a log house, how the construction ends.

Many developers before the start of construction there is excitement, a premonition of fuss and problems. Do not worry, anxiety happens to most, because it is not every year that you have to build your own house. Many build for the first time, once and for all. Without experience, it is difficult to remain calm and unruffled.

There are constant thoughts in my head: will they deceive me, will they follow the rules when building my house, will the house turn out to be solid and reliable, will there be enough money, etc.?

If you are building with a company "Chukhloma estate", then do not worry and be sure that your house from a bar will be built as it should, according to the Agreement. Chukhloma Estate has been on the construction market since 2001, during which time we have built so many wooden houses from logs and timber that we have lost count of them.

The main thing for us is building a house with high quality, so that our customers are satisfied with our work and continue cooperation in the future, recommend our company to their relatives, friends and acquaintances. And this is only possible if our customers are satisfied with our homes and our carpenters.

So, where does the construction of any house begin? That's right, from the base...

1. Building a foundation for a house from a bar

The construction of the foundation is the first stage in the construction of a house from a bar.

The most common types of foundations that are erected under timber houses are (MZLF), pile-grillage And pile screw foundation.

Of these three, the most sought after is pile screw foundation. Due to three factors: price, production speed and the possibility of its installation at any time of the year.

At the pile-screw foundation, the most low price manufacturing, in comparison with all the others, this is the decisive factor in its choice for most developers. Moreover, you do not need to wait for some time when it is ready. As a rule, one light day is enough to screw the piles into the ground. The next day, you can already begin to install the log house on it.

Since log houses are built year-round, the construction of other types of foundations is problematic, especially MZLF, because. concrete does not set well in the cold, and it is difficult for him to dig a trench in frozen soil.

Thus, if you want to build a house inexpensively, then pay attention to the pile-screw foundation. It has proven itself well in the areas of our customers. Houses made of timber and even logs, built by our company "Chukhlomskaya Usadba" 10 or more years ago, stand firmly on a pile-screw foundation, without any complaints from customers.

A foundation with a grillage is something between a pile-screw and tape in terms of price and manufacturing principle, so it is acceptable for those who do not dare to opt for the first and who have a fairly large house.

For those who decide to build thoroughly, build big house for several generations, it is worth stopping at a shallow strip foundation. This is the most expensive type of foundation, but also the most reliable. There is no doubt that he will stand under the house for the entire period of his service. Especially it fits the overall.

2. Types of timber, installation of a log house

After you have the foundation ready, the team of carpenters proceeds to the second stage of construction - the erection of a log house on it.

If the foundation is pile-screw, then before installing the house, a strapping row is installed on the pile-screw foundation, which will connect all the piles sticking out of the ground.

An ordinary bar with a section of at least 100x150 mm is used for piping: the larger the building, the more rooms it contains, the more complex the foundation and the more piles, the thicker the bar should be.

Strapping row in without fail processed, because the timber is in contact with the metal, and this is not the best neighborhood for materials with opposite properties. Antiseptic strapping is a must!

In this article, we will consider the construction of a log house only from, which is a building material made of natural wood, made mechanically without the use of chemical action: a bar of natural moisture and chamber drying.

The first type of timber includes , and to the second dry profiled timber.

An ordinary beam differs from a profiled one in price - it is the cheapest and, therefore, affordable wooden building material due to the fact that it undergoes minimal processing.

During its manufacture, the wood layer is removed until a bar of the required section is obtained. Therefore, it is slightly rough to the touch, as it is customary to jokingly call it “shaggy timber” among carpenters.

A log cabin from a simple bar requires either additional processing of the walls in the form of a fence and grinding, or sheathing with other wall material.

Not only houses are built from ordinary timber, but also other types of buildings: utility blocks, garages, sheds, gazebos, it goes to the manufacture of a strapping row and to beam ceilings in floors and ceilings.

It has spikes and grooves on both sides, with which it closes in the wall when assembling a log house from it.

Both simple and profiled "raw" timber has a moisture content of 25-40%. The level of humidity depends on the period of manufacture and the environment, because wood is a hygroscopic material that has the ability to take and give moisture to environment. The longer the bar of natural moisture is in the open air, the drier it becomes.

Dry profiled timber- the most expensive type of wooden building material of all types of solid timber, since it undergoes additional drying in a heat chamber. Its humidity, according to GOST, should be 12-20%.

In appearance, it is no different from a profiled timber of natural moisture: it has the same grooves on two sides, smooth surfaces on the other two sides. A log house assembled from profiled timber does not require additional processing of the walls, because they are even, without roughness, have a beautiful texture pattern of wood. To preserve the integrity of the wood of the log house, the walls must be treated with an antiseptic and, if desired, given some shade.

A log cabin is being erected. Both types of locking in the corner keep heat well with high-quality workmanship, because. have a complex configuration that does not allow air to pass through from the outside.

A log house from a bar is built either under shrinkage or on a turnkey basis.

3. Construction of a house from a beam for shrinkage

The phased construction of a house from a bar implies that the construction of a structure for shrinkage or turnkey determines the further order of work.

The construction phase is longer in time, because the house is being built from a bar of natural moisture.

A house made of "raw" timber shrinks up to 10% in the first year of construction. This means that it will decrease in height, because. the beam in the rows will dry out, sit down. During this period, when the wooden building material will sag, windows and doors cannot be installed to avoid formation in the walls. Because window and door frames will prevent this, will keep the upper rows from sagging while the lower rows will shrink freely.

Thus, the upper crowns, which will be held by windows and doors, will not be able to tightly close with the lower ones and gaps will form between them. That is why they build a house from a timber of natural moisture for shrinkage, so that the rows of the house during shrinkage can tightly close, “grow” to each other.

To do this, after the construction of the log house, openings are made in those places where windows and doors will be installed so that there is ventilation inside the house.

The house is necessarily covered with a roof in order to protect it from precipitation, you can immediately make a capital roof, under the weight of which shrinkage will occur faster.

Shrinkage occurs for about six months, its most intense stage occurs in the first 3-4 months.

4. Construction of a house from a turnkey timber

A house is being built from chamber-drying timber, because it shrinks less, up to 3-5% in the first year of construction. With this construction option, windows and doors are installed immediately, but taking into account shrinkage, technological expansion gaps are made above them.

Compensation gap- this is the distance between the beam and the window or door frame, which gradually decreases during shrinkage. A heater is placed in the void of the gap and covered with cash on top. Over time, the beam will lie on the box, tightly pressing down the insulation with its weight, the distance between the window and the beam will disappear.

5. Roof installation

In order for the roof to be reliable, it would not be blown away even under the pressure of the strongest hurricane, it is necessary to observe a number of technological conditions during its construction.

First of all, it is necessary to provide a solid frame-rafter system: rafters - edged board 50x150 mm and crate - edged board 25x150 mm. The rafters are installed in increments of 0.6 m, the distance between the crate is 20-30 cm. These are the optimal technological standards for the construction of the roof of a timber house. They are suitable for all types of roofs.

The main types of roofs are gable, broken line(attic) and hip.

The most difficult to manufacture, because. the rafters on it are not solid, but with a break. Therefore, the construction of a sloping roof must be approached with special care so that it is sufficiently reliable. For its construction, only an experienced team of carpenters should be involved.

Good craftsmen with skills are also needed in the manufacture of other types of roofs, especially if a special roof window is being built.

6. Finishing a house from a bar after shrinkage

Finishing a house from a bar after shrinkage is the final stage in building a house from a bar of natural moisture.

Six months later, the main shrinkage of the timber frame is already taking place, so you can proceed with the installation of windows and doors, interior and exterior decoration: laying the finishing floors and ceilings, installing stairs, wiring, etc.

It must be borne in mind that imperceptible shrinkage will occur even before a year, therefore, as in the case of building a house from a turnkey timber, the necessary compensation gaps are made above the windows and doors.

So, now you know the phased construction of a house from a bar, in what order it happens. Of course, this description is given in in general terms, because for each stage of construction, you can write a whole instruction on several sheets, since they all have their own characteristics, each has its own nuances.

But you have already learned the most important things, what you need to pay attention to in the first place.

Most important condition building a quality wooden house - conscientious and skilled craftsmen. These are the people who work at the Chukhloma Usadba company.

Examples of the phased construction of a house from a timber for shrinkage with photos and videos:

Construction of a house from a bar under the project for shrinkage:

Construction of a house from a bar 6x9 according to the project for shrinkage:

The beginning of construction of a house from a bar for shrinkage according to the project "Committee"

If someone else is thinking about what material to build a house from, perhaps our article will provide food for thought. Indeed, someone believes that traditional brick is the best material for construction, someone is a supporter of wood. Let's say right away that both wood and brick are equally suitable for building a house. Simply, some believe that brick is stronger and will last for centuries.

At the same time, technology now makes it possible to make wood as strong and durable as brick. But the tree has such attractive sides as environmental friendliness, ease of installation, aesthetics. In general, disputes about what to build from are likely to exist as long as wood and brick exist. Therefore, let's consider today such a question as the main stages of building a wooden house.

If you look at the literature on building wooden houses, you will see that there are two stages. Why two? This is due to the physical properties of wood. As you know, a tree tends to dry out, in construction this is called shrinkage or shrinkage. Shrinkage is a decrease in the volume of wood due to the evaporation of moisture. Therefore, it is precisely because of this property that one has to build from wood in two stages.

The first stage - the manufacture of a log house

So, the first stage. A frame is made and installed on the foundation. The foundation is arranged tape or columnar. The frame is assembled from timber or round timber. After installing the log house, you must wait until the tree shrinks.

When installing a log house in the summer, the shrinkage period must be at least a year. During winter construction - six months.

However, the construction of wooden houses has its own subtleties. Usually it is even more profitable to build from wood in winter. Winter wood is denser than wood cut in summer. This is due to the fact that by winter the pores of the tree are closed, and the moisture itself leaves. As a result, the "winter house" will shrink slightly, and "sit down" more evenly. Another plus is that such logs crack less.

Another important advantage is that the winter tree does not contain various microorganisms that destroy wood.

One note - in winter the tree becomes fragile, so you need to work with it carefully.

Consider how much different wood can shrink. Let's take standard height a log house of 2.5 m. A log house, delivered from a bar in the summer during the year, will give a draft of 4 cm. From round timber - 8 cm.

The log house during this period must be covered with a roof and covered with roofing material. At this point, the first stage can be considered completed.

Thus, the first stage consists in the following operations.

1. Foundation pouring.
2. Log house manufacturing.
3. Installation of a log house on the foundation.
4. Roof arrangement and covering the log house with roofing material.

The second stage - finishing the house

At the second stage, windows, doors are installed, partitions are built, floors are laid, internal and external wall decoration is carried out.

Many try for various reasons to fit into one stage. Such a desire is understandable, you want to move in faster, and construction is cheaper. However, building a wooden house in one stage is fraught with unpleasant consequences. The log house will shrink, but your windows and doors will not. As a result, the frame will hang on them. Yes, gaps are formed.

However, there are tricks that allow you to build a wooden house in one step.

To do this, it is necessary to leave cuts above the windows and doors approximately at the shrinkage height, i.e. by 4 cm.

When shrinkage occurs, the openings will just return to their places. To ennoble the house externally and close the cuts, it is necessary to put platbands. After the shrinkage is over (about six months), the platbands can be removed and the gaps can be sealed with mounting foam. This applies to all the cracks in the house.

After that, we start decorating the house. You can sheathe the walls with any panels, such as siding or clapboard. It is strictly forbidden to sheathe the walls immediately after the construction of the log house. This is done within a year.

These are the main stages in the construction of a wooden house from a bar or log. Profiled timber is of course preferable for construction. Due to its shape, after shrinkage, there are no gaps left in it. Happy building!